agreed,
but KA trannies are under $100 anyways…lol
i have heard of the same things you have but i dont know anyone who has experienced them.
True, It happened to me, when i put in my obx. Then i sold it for a megan, which turned out to be just a bit better…[/quote]
Do you people not read anything? The OBX’s main design flaw is that it’s 2 piece. It breaks at the union between these 2 pieces. It’s easily solved through welding or JB weld.
Your Megan is a one piece shifter. So is this shifter by the looks of it…
SS don’t wreck synchros…drivers wreck synchros.
A Quote form Zilvia.net
its because people shift like got damn morons
my clutch is oem 170,000km
i clutch kick it every time i go to the track
i probably put 1000km on my car drifting it this year
YES you are making the throw shorter, but you can still feather it into gear like any other shifter when you are just daily driving which is fine for the syncros and has the same impact as any shifter
its only a shorter shift if you make it shorter by the speed you jam it into gear.
thats why people with oem shifters can shift just as fast as someone with a b&m.
A Quote form Zilvia.net
[/quote]
quoting dudes on-line sucks because he amy not know a dang thing:
here is another quote from that same thread from a dude named Gladman
As for the guy that said short shifters are hard on trannies, you’re wrong. Short shifters decrease your mechanical advantage, they decrease the amount of force you are capable of exerting on the transmission. Imagine a shifter with a 12" throw, you’d be able to put tons of force into the tranny and not even feel it. With a super short throw, you wont have the leverage to put the tranny into gear, unless its ready to go into gear.
my b&m makes no noise whatsoever and am very pleased with it’s performance. i have heard that some knock offs ruin trannies, i think nate busted his tranny from a knock off shortshifter.
A Quote form Zilvia.net
[/quote]
It’still the drivers fault. It is quite easy to drive a SS equipped car and not destroy the syncros. Now, if you bang the gears every chance you get…well the syncros won’t last… short shifter or not.
this makes sense to me
steve,
i just asked them it was the OBX, and parts of it broke and fell into the tranny or something like that.
btw…
in order to try and stop some of the noise i am going to get a nismo tranny mount and maybe put some dynamat on the shifter assembly…
think that’ll help?
A Quote form Zilvia.net
[/quote]
It’still the drivers fault. It is quite easy to drive a SS equipped car and not destroy the syncros. Now, if you bang the gears every chance you get…well the syncros won’t last… short shifter or not.[/quote]
actually a poorly designed short shifter may not engauge the gear 100% and round off the gears which is what ive heard the knock offs do
also,
i wanted you guys to feel this shifter… i am going to order more so that everyone can get one… they friggin rule.
Happy240sx wrote:
Quote:
As for the guy that said short shifters are hard on trannies, you’re wrong. Short shifters decrease your mechanical advantage, they decrease the amount of force you are capable of exerting on the transmission. Imagine a shifter with a 12" throw, you’d be able to put tons of force into the tranny and not even feel it. With a super short throw, you wont have the leverage to put the tranny into gear, unless its ready to go into gear.
This guy is wrong!! You actually increase mechanical advantage with a short shifter. A short shifter does not decrease your throw by shortening the length of the shifter(which would decrease mech advantege) it shortens the throw by lengthening the lever below the fulcrum (the ball and socket/ pivot point) this gives you more mech advantage. But none of this matters…unless something brakes off the shifter it should not hurt your tranny. If you syncros get f**ked up its because you don’t know how to shift and in which case you don’t need a SS anyways.
Because the radius is changed, you decrease the torque applied when you shift. This is also why some short shifters require more effort to shift.
Either way, you are right. If you break your synchros, it’s not because of your short shifter…
I am wrong… I had it all backwards the stock shifter will creat more “torque” if it is sifted with the same effort as the SS.
I will own up to my mistakes… It was bothering me so I did the math to figure out that I was wrong for sure and so here it is…
with some explination.
The shifter is a class 1 lever meaning the fulcrum is between the load and the effort. (ex teeter totter)
Now if it takes 5lbs of load to shift (load= the effort to move between geers at the short end of the shifter) and the load is say 1 1/2 inches from the fulcrum ( the ball and knckle) and the distance from fulcrum to the effort (shift knob) say 6 inchs then it would work out like this.
L x LD/ ED= E
5 x 1.5/6 = 1.25lbs
So if this is the stock shifter it would take 1.25lbs of effort from your arm to shift…
Now if you have a SS the LD is longer lets say by an inch, so load would be 2.5 inches from the fulcrum. It would look like this.
5 x 2.5/6 = 2.08lbs
So it takes more effort with the SS to equal the same load as the stock shifter.
Yes, the smaller radius produces less torque if the same force is applied to both the stock shifter and the SS…
Again, you were correct that the only reason synchros break is because of the driver, not the SS…
bob agrees?
let us all rejoice
bing the solid mount will no nothing about taking noise away at all,
the dynamat might help but i doubt it alot of the noise is transferd threw the actual rod its self
when my tanabe solid shifter bushing was breaking in it was nosy as fuck on my obx, worse than a b&m and i have a solid tranny mount
Yeah … I doubt the shifters are the culprit.
Bad installation, and horrible drivers IMHO.
I have heard a lot of people driving 5 spds like e-tards … 90% of people can’t drive stick properly as it is.
Then you have them want to shift just as badly, but faster.
The problem isn’t the shifter, it’s the footwork.
On a 300,000+km tranny that’s now got a grabby clutch and an SS and a guy trying to row gears like a maniac … that’ll kill the synchros
240s eat the synchros whether or not you swap in a short shifter. Most trannies will. The synchros are brass, and are there to take the shock. Brass is soft. After a few hundred thousand shifts in its life, the synchros go.
This is why when rebuilding your tranny, you should have steel synchros put in if you want it to live.
A solid tranny mount will make it noisier. The rubber mount absorbs virbrations rather than transfer it to the frame and floor. Did you reuse the factory rubber shift boot as well as the leather? That’ll help with noise. Changing the oil will help too. If your tranny is noisy, I doubt it’s the shifter. It’s probably getting old.
I agree completely with Spilner. This thing needs time. If it’s cheap, odds are corners were cut. Just because something is cast does in no way make it strong. Even good parts suppliers have casting flaws. There’s still a piece of a Carter fuel pump eccentric in my Charger’s oil pan. Casting flaw, arm broke off.
Cheap casting from a country without industry standards that gets leaned on every day … How are the tolerances shifter to shifter?
Like if you buy one, and I buy one, are they identical? Will it rust? Is it engaging the gears completely …?
Odds are it’ll be fine. But I don’t think waiting to see how they hold up is stupid.
I don’t think you need to get under the car. I just pulled a shifter out of an S13 this weekend and was able to do it from inside the car. The forward 2 12mm bolts are just under the floor. An angled box end 12mm ratcheting wrench got them no problem. Then again there was no interior in the car, so maybe that made it easier.