I know on the GSXR 1000’s they use the same set up as the 600’s and use a secondary throttle body set up for idle and mid range, with out them the idle usually tends to be high, on a bike, usually around 2-2500 maybe different when put on a car. Depending on what year it they are off of the adjustments will be different. Here is a link to alot of different GSXR service manuals that might help in adjusting them.
http://wotid.com/gsxr/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=22&Itemid=35
Idle air sensor. may sound stupid or completely wrong, but since I don’t know anything I figured somebody should say it. I’ve seen it broken/blown out on some K series swaps into RSX’s and what not.
I don’t have IACV, FITV, IAB, or IAT (although it is there…it’s basically measuring bay temps)
MAP signal voltage should decrease with increasing vacuum in a linear fashion. So that means that roughly 900 mBar (.93 Bar) should equal ~27 inHg. That should land me at .5V output signal from the MAP sensor. That makes sense for idle vacuum, which would be unachievable with a large IM leak…right? The math isn’t supporting the evidence basically.
In an effort to not ruin the ring seal, should I just start it and let it idle @ 3K with no load for a bit so the rings seal and I can change the oil?
I’ve heard the best way to seal rings is to run it and from 50-35 MPH multiple times to get the rings to “suck out” against the crosshatches to get the best wear-in possible.
I take it that is not an option. Running it unloaded at 3K will probably be OK for the the rings to last 50000 miles, at which time you’re probably going to have rebuilt it once anyway?
Right Justin, that’s the issue. I doubt it would be prudent to try and drive it around with the way it’s idling, although with my luck it’d iron itself out if I did do that.
Ideally I should do some hard accel/decell runs for about 20 minutes and chage the oil and examine for particulates.
What is your TPS reading @ idle? Do you have a volt meter to check it? Your RPM should be a little bit high like 1100 to 1200 but not 3K.
ITB TPS should be ~.6 @ closed and ITB TPS should be ~4.5 WOT…
I drove my car out of boost for 100 miles up and down hills on break in. Then I switched the oil and boosted away!
Maybe trailer it to a private area where you can safely attempt to run it and see if it stops being bitchy?
It’s +.5V exactly closed, +3.60 WOT. It has less swing (degree-wise) than the stocker.
everything you posted sounds fine… the map, the tps…
I would start turning the plates to get them to change the idle. Just keep unscrewing them! If its true that they idle a bike stock at 2500~, then that makes sence… i cant remember if you said you had these on a car before working ok or not…
I did have the mounted on the same motor, before replacing internals. It was basically identical to where I’m at now. Idle at or near 3K, but it was smoking like crazy before…but that was due to beat rings and valve seals. This time around it sounds healthy as hell, no smoke.
Where did you T for the MAP?
It’s not T’d actually. The stock MAP sensor is normally mounted on the throttle body, where vacuum input is accessed via a small port on the side of the throttle body.
I mounted the MAP sensor on the firewall (port facing up) and ran a short (3-4 in long) line directly into the vacuum manifold. Datalog shows that readings are within the OEM spec 0-30inHg.
The vacuum routing is like this:
Manifold has 5 ports and an exit port
Port 1 - MAP sensor
Port 2 - to runners 3 and 4
Port 3 - plugged, not in use
Port 4 - to runners 1 and 2
Port 5 - to FPR hose fitting
exit port - to brake booster checkvalve
man, sure sounds fine…
start playing with the throttle plate stops… that has to be it.
I’m going to try that as soon as I get home. I hope that is the issue, I only visually synchronized them before I put them onto the manifold.
cover up all the holes and see if it still runs…if it does there is a serious vacuum leak
if i remember correctly isnt one runner adjustable for the idle instead of all of them? cover one hole at a time and see what it does, then your whole arm :tounge:
steve was going to try this tonight with two others there, but i think the battery was killed. he can fill you on with more info.
Battery took a shit. I did adjust the plates though (and rechecked MAP voltage)…runners 1/2/3 were cracked slightly open. I did turn it over once after doing that and it still went straight to 3K, so I let it continue running for about another 15 sec, and the RPM very slowly crept to 3.5K.
Joe: Idle seems to be staying at ~3000, but I was not able to block off the runners, since the battery crapped out. Will attempt it again tonight.
Pen’s game tonight, but I can lend a hand (damn I’m funny) tomorrow if you would like. Chances are pretty good that I’ll be headed out to CostCo tomorrow if you want me to pick you up a battery.