there is so many different routes you can go its basically just preferance especially with hondas, u could build an ls vtec with a pr3 head (type r or b16) or even a p72 head (gsr) > which i personally wouldnt do, or u could buy a complete swap and if u wanna boost then ur best bet if u also want vtec would be a gsr because they are cheaper then itr’s and u would have to lower the compression anyway if u wanted to run higher psi, but on a stock gsr u could probably be safe running around 9 or 10psi
well i bought my first honda, a b16 ef already swapped courtesy of hybrid and i didnt learn shit from it. i did as much research as i could, but it just wasnt the same. i was leaning towards the gsr, but from what i hear, its expensive to go that route, when an ls motor is just as easily turboed.
Actually when i did my ls vtec build i got my type r head for 700 it all depends on where you look. But really if your gonna boost a b20 you really should sleeve it. So better off just throwin an ls block in it
if you really want to make real power with the setup buy it like it is and find a ls bottom end and just boost the shit out of it…here is the thing on the b20vtec that your buying what water pump is on it, what oil pump …did this thing get built right …if you want to boost and the kid has no idea what is in it you may want to start out new and get a ls bottom end get the right vtec pupms put them in get the holes block off and take off the head and put it on you new bottom end that will be able to take the high rpm’s and hold some boost should hold 8lbs all day …
on a side note your getting alot of good info from some good guys that know a lot about out hondas so please take some of this info …
Personally I think the B20 bottom end is great for a basic street setup. I’ve never lost one I’ve tuned with boost, but I don’t get greedy.
I wouldn’t hesitate if you want around 300 whp or less on that stock b20 with vtec head combo with arp studs and a metal gasket.
I tuned a kid from rochester running a B20/B16 with both parts stock except for gasket and studs. It ran 11’s, made 390 whp, and he ran it for 2 years and sold the engine to someone still running…so I know it’s possible to make more. That particular customer told me to push it and he didn’t care if it blew since he had several other cars. I don’t recommend pushing the stock shortblock that far, but they’re not junk.
If you’re looking to have one sleeved and built up we can do that too.
IMO, if you plan on doing it, fine. If someone else did it, forget about it, it’s not worth the risk.
I don’t know why people just don’t get a gsr block. Sure its a bit more expensive but in the end, it beats having to do the ls/vtec conversion.
Especially if you’re going to boost it, you will not even feel the difference in displacement. If you were doing an N/A build it’d be a different story.
word!
thx guys for all the info, I appreciate it alot!
i want to punch noobs when they say “you have to sleeve a B20 because they are weak”
people need to stop regurgitating the bs they read on honda-tech
lol, honda newbssssss. I over bored my b20 to 84.5mm and revved it out to 10g on a daily basis on stock sleeves with 12.5:1 compression and made great power on mikes dyno. proper tuning is key as usual.
also id find out if its a b20b or z different pistons hight will limit what head/cam combo you can run with the stock valve reliefs in the pistons.
my b20 block was even lost in british columbia, dropped numerous times by ups and returned 1month late afte being lost missing all the main caps. The motor still managed to be the best runnin i have ever built.
no mindless is right the gsr flows better, I believe it has a lower compression ratio than the b16 too.
EDIT : I was correct, the CR in a b16 is 10.4/1 while the GSR is 10.1/1. The deck height is like
.020 compared to .030 in the GSR.
If I remeber correctly this setup kinda sucks unless the block is built and sleeved. Just the same as everyone else is saying, the sleeves are weak and cant handle the boost and on top of that the stroke of the motor is very long and cant handle the revs the type r head can give out. Youd be much better doing ls-vtec, or just buying an actual swap instead of the “frankenstein” setup
didnt see this…10g without sleeves? I always heard that was the main problem with this setup…
if you were to keep the motor N/a with a type R head does anyone know the power differences from using a gsr block, ls block, and b20? so youre saying the b20 cant handle 10k rpm? i dono i feel if youre keeping it N/a the b20 will give you the torque you want
first b4 we go on and on about what is better did the OP get the car??
People like you need to stop posting things that they don’t know about. If you don’t relevant “facts” then don’t post, its that simple!
I wouldn’t run any block to 10k without proper precautions first. If you were to leave them stock, the itr would be the best choice for that sort of RPM range - but it still not a good idea for longevity.
Good thing I made that up. Some FACTS are B20vtec motors (not saying there arent exceptions) Can rev high due to r/s ratios and weak stock sleeves. Just what I put in my previous post. So without building the block with sleeves, maybe even a block guard, apr studs and prolly some strong internals you wont be able to get full potential out of the setup. Type r/Gsr motors make power at peak rps, not crvs dont. Thanks for the imput tho 
edit I was wrong about the name though, I meant “crvtec”
B20 will give you the torque u want, and maybe it can handle 10k redline, but who says it will make power up that high and I can bet eventually sooner than l8er u will run into problems. If you want to rev high go itr gsr. If you want to run any modded setup of b20vtec whether its boosted or NA you will want to build and sleeve bottom end. Youd be better off just buying an itr/gsr swap, it would be cheaper and more reliable.
:gotme:
play nice in sand box
this will go 40 pages