Best B-Series all motor combo

NYSpeed Automotive
1

I’m looking to build my first motor for my 95 integra, as of right now i have a GSR bottom end and should be getting a GSR head soon. But i’ve heard different things regarding a b16 head on a GSR bottom end, b16 cams in a gsr head etc. To start i’m just wondering what the best head/bottom end combo is to go all motor. Once i figure that out then advice on rods pistons cams etc would be greatly appreciated :slight_smile:

I know people say its a waste of money to go all motor with a honda, but i’m not looking to boost it. Just want something that is quick and streetable.

2

gsr is better then b16 head unless its an itr head which is same casting as b16. Gsr head will slightly bump up your compression.

b16 cams are garbage and the smallest cam you should be looking at for all motor is itr’s but dont forget that when doing cams you need the valvetrain to match.

cheap cost effective piston is the topline pistons which can be had in itr design which will bump the compression up in a gsr. Me personaly, id sell the gsr bottom and buy an ls bottom and use topline pr3’s pistons. then use a gsr head and minimum itr cams. I good intake and good exhuast will be needed and then 200whp shouldnt be to hard to get.

3

or just do big dog H2B set up NA.

4

the car has an ls in it right now that i could use, but i was under the impression that the gsr bottom would be a better option. why would an ls be better?

5

if you want a good pump gas motor doing a gsr block with ls rods and crank and b16 pistons you end up with about 11.5 to 1 cr with a gsr head. you get the benefit of the oil squirters and block girdle. as long as its built right it will be reliable. but you gotta remeber the second you pull an oem motor apart and start modding it for more power you are sacraficing reliability. the ls crank benefits because its a tiny bit longer in stroke being that its 89mm stroke and a gsr is 87.2, you only get a tiny bit of cc’s bigger displacement but a longer stroke motor almost always has a better powerband.

6

how about running an LS crank in the GSR block?

7

you could get a B16 block run LS crank with LS rods with Type R pistons. then mill the head.020 to up the comp thicker head gasket. ITR cams with ITR valve train. then run a B16 trans.

OR

use your LS bottom end find a B16 or GSR head and do a NA LS vtec (since you already have a LS in the teg) just get the type R pistons. Then do head work. Mill the head.ITR cams and valve train then get a TRUE cold air intake…maybe a bored out Throttle Body then a Skunk2 intake mani or a Type R mani. run a good header no ebay shit. maybe a 4-2-1 there are deals all over on honda-tech for them. test pipe with a 2.5 inch exhaust. get some 310cc injectors and get it TUNED and you will have a really fast NA teg. Then you just gut the car take out the sound deadening stuff 2 seats a dash and door panels lol but that is another part.

OH YEA PS DITCH THE LS TRANS IF YOU DO NA TO LONG OF GEARS

8

you still dont even need the ITR valve train for the ITR cams…its better since they are a dual valve spring set up but still… could always go skunk2 pro1 cams like alpha earl says to do theres like 15whp gain over ITR cams with them…the LS crank will provide the 1834cc’s compared to the GS-R cranks 1798cc’s…not everyone thinks its impossible to make all motor power with a honda…i recommend looking at the all motor forum on Honda-Tech.com though lots of good advice and a lot more people able to give you advice on a honda compared to this site

9

this thread makes my head hurt now. lol

10

tell me about it…i most have over 700 posts on h-t.com about pretty much this same exact stuff

11

the ls has a longer stroke, plus you already have it. There is no need to go spend the money on a gsr bottom end! esp for what your doing. listen to turbociv, he knows what he talking about.

if you end up using a pr3 head (b16/itr) and need intake/fuel setup let me know. i might be snagging some itb’s for my build. pm me for details.

12

91DA, if your serious about making a quick almotor car then contact paul at swerve motorsports and he can have me build ya something. It honestly doesnt sound like you have done this before and it would suck if you blew your shit up.

here is the last lsv i built with itr pistons and dc header also tuned by myself for fuel only
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v371/turbociv/JDonovan4NA.gif

and here is the last b20vtec i built and tuned for fuel only
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v371/turbociv/JDonovan-4NAWinner1.gif

Both setups were not maxed out and had power to be made with igntion/cam tuning. But i sold them and bought a bmw.:smiley:

13

Best B-Series All Motor Combo = This

Srsly…don’t waste money going all motor B. B’s are fine for boost…for Allmotor…the k20 will outperform it in every way. No downtime with a torn apart motor, then you have to worry about who rebuilds it, all the B-series trannies these days need a rebuild…by the time ur done u spent enough for a K-swap and ur making less power & tq.

A stock JDM k20 with bolt-ons, tuned on Kpro ur looking at 230-240whp & 160-170 tq lol. How much do u need to drop on a B to get those #'s. H2B can touch these #'s tho…but they’re 2.2 L and H-series are the lose.

Engine: Bone stock K20a, RBC intake manifold, Karcepts throttle body adapter, BDL 70mm throttle body

Mods: SSR header, test pipe, 3" thermal exhaust, CAI, walbro 255lph fuel pump, Hondata kpro

Tuning on 93 octane:
http://dynos.evans-tuning.com/230whpredekhatch.jpg

lol this is just ridic. I’d love to see this dude snake a sukka with a boosted car into a dig race bwahha

Eg hatch, 89mm x 102mm, Blueprint Stage 3s, 306whp/225tq, Kpro

Engine: Evans Tuning built longblock,Inline pro sleeved K24 block, 89mm x 102mm, brian crower stroker kit, custom 12.5:1 pistons, blueprint ported cylinder head and valvetrain, blueprint stage 3 cams, blueprint ported RBC intake manifold, BDL 70mm tb port matched

Mods: SSR header with megaphone, custom 3" intake with velocity stack, ID 725cc injectors, walbro 255lph fuel pump, aeromotive fpr, GE fuel rail, external fuel lines, Hondata kpro

Tuning on MS 103 race gas:

http://dynos.evans-tuning.com/chrism306whpretune.jpg

14

just stick with the gsr bottom end. You can resell your complete LS motor

like someone else said, ditch the ls trans and get a b16 one

and get the gsr head. i think a small port/valve job is like 250$ ? and you can get a full valvetrain for under 400bucks

blah blah blah
If you go to evans for a tune you can get a velocity stack intake :stuck_out_tongue:

15

sshhhhhh

16

While I agree that K series have way more potential, a b series puts down decent numbers. Yes it takes alittle more work, but more money is debatable.

The K20 is gonna cost you $5500 plus shipping for the motor alone. And then the K-pro itself is over a $1000, when there are FREE programs for B-series. Then you have to worry about re-welding the mounts into the chassis. With all the other bolt-ons/supporting mods being similar in price, for 200hp or close to it; I think b series is cheaper.

K-Series Cost
Engine- $5500
KPro- $1000
Labor for Swapping mounts- $300-400
Total- $7200.00

B-Series Cost Analysis (My own build)

LS block- 200
RS Machines Cast PR3 pistons- $200
Machine Work (Assembly, Hone, Reworking of rods, Balancing & micro polish crank)- $500
LS/Vtec Kit- $250
PR3 Head w/ P&P/ Valve Job- $1400 (decked .01)
RM Valvesprings and Titanium Retainers- $315
Supertech Flat faced Valves- $220
ARP Hardware(main, head, rod)- $270
S2P2 Cams- $900
ITR Tranny- $1400
Total= $5400.00

I dont have numbers now, as the swap is still being put in the car. But Im expecting at least 200whp.

17

He doesnt do the intakes anymore, he couldnt make them cost effective so he stopped producing them. If you have one fabbed up by Innovative, he will tune it and cut it to the correct length though.

18

well i wouldn’t be spending money on the gsr bottom cause i already have one. it sounds to me like an ls crank in the gsr bottom end would be optimal for the long stroke and better block

19

:tup:

20

you can do that but you have to use ls rods(read:arp rod bolts required!).
and also if you do that you will have to bend the oil squirters in the gsr block or plug them. I would plug them, as oil is run through the rods on LS setups, oil is spraying the piston that way.

IMHO doing that is a waste of the gsr block. That LS block will withstand what your going to throw at it, unless your doing some crazy over 13:1 build.
But my compression is at like 12.6-12.7:1 and I am running a B18a1 block, which will be more than enough.