and you will have to get it line bored correct?
as far as the intake, i thought he was still doing them? i was on the forums and one of his more recent all-motor tunes had one…
Yea a line bore is a plus, lol. I inquired about one in january and thats what he told me. I was going to copy/paste the email but i deleted it. Like I said he will still tune/cut them but he doesn’t fabricate them anymore due to cost. Maybe since then he found a way to make it cost effective.
wow some really good info and some not soo good
first what is your power goal?
I was going to ask the same, but i didnt want to step on turbociv’s toes. 
.
how much money do you want to spend and the use of the car would also help.
id love to have around 200 wheel (i feel like thats sort of a high number, but maybe not), best case scenario the car would be like a spring through fall daily and then id have a beater in the winter. and im not looking to spend mega dollars, sort of budget status, but i would definitely wait if i needed to save up for a more expensive quality part.
probably looking at about 4k-5k depending on what you do if it’s a quality build
and the remember you would probably get about a grand back selling your stock stuff(motor, tranny, etc)
with supporting mods with my build i expect to see no more than 220. and thas being somewhat hopeful. If you really wanna make 200whp step up to a b20 block. It will be much cheaper than buying bolt ons and internals to make a 1.8l have that much power.
Things you are also gonna need that werent mentioned in the cost post.
Injectors w/ clips. At least 310’s.
Intake Manifold
Throttle Body
Intake
Hytech/SSR/RMF or the like header
2.5" mandrel bent exhaust.
Like said before, a good transmission. An ITR w/ stock LSD w/ LS 5th. And a better FD will make an immense difference in putting the power to the ground.
Join Honda-tech and lurk around.
well i already have a 2.5 mandrel bent, so im good on that. and like i said, i figured 200 was kinda high, thanks a lot for the input, definitely making me think about things i didn’t before.
how much are you trying to spend?
i have a couple things that might interest you, like a longblock that puts down 180whp with itr cams, its 84mm bored gsr, low compression but would be a great starting block and you wouldnt have a need to build the bottom end, put a single layer headgasket in it, pro1 cams and your set
im not really sure how much i wanna spend total, but i know for a fact it won’t be all bought within a short period of time. im gonna have to do some saving wheeling and dealing for sure.
the increased bore will slightly lower compression too…
And you still can’t touch 230/160-240/170 with that build. Look at the dyno’s…not even peak #'s, the K20 dominates ALL OVER the board.
That’s my point:
You spend the money and have a reliable STOCK motor, or u spend NEARLY as much on a FULLY BUILT motor, that WILL blow up sooner than the K. U left out a ton of other misc costs that go into rebuilds. Gaskets, seals, QUALITY intake/exhaust manifolds, fuel pump, injectors, hondaband, oil pump, blah blah blah blah. No matter how name brand aftermarket parts are, OEM is always best because they are designed to work together as a system. A la carte modding works fine and dandy, but will never last as long. Besides, with a fully built B, high comp, and big cams, ur gotta rev to 9-10K to make the power. And everyone knoes…RPM = ruins peoples’ motors… (sidenote: flat faced valves = marketing bullshit. just use OEM valves with a 3 angle valve job. the comp u get from flat faced valves is so negligble and totally not worth 220 bucks+labor)
Regarding EMS: yeah u can use freeware, but they notoriously late on updates and after a while, its frustrating. I ended up just buying neptune cuz crome updates were meahhhhhhhhhhh. Also, if he’s obd2, it sucks ass for inspection. swap ecu’s out, car runs like ass cuz a stock comp can’t idle skunk2 pro 2 cams, throw cels…blah blah blah headache.
Kpro is a G, but so worth it. Tune ANY cams with any compression that u throw in, then pass inspection no problemo. No cheap conversion harnesses w/ pins coming out, no bullshit.
The swap isn’t all that bad at all. Any competent garage with an air compressor and basic tools can do it. (ok a welder isn’t a basic tool, but what shop can’t weld these days?)
Also, if u go to canada and pick it up, it’ll cost u significantly less. prolly 4-4500 if u flash some US dolla dollas. Also, you don’t HAVE to buy a jdm K20A…you can get a regular rsx-s block for way cheaper, throw in some 12:1 pistons and that’ll rip pretty decently too…
Its one thing if ur just doing a stock or nearly stock rebuild on a Bseries to have some fun…but if ur looking to actually drop serious money into a build, just buy a K and save urself the headache of building the B, making less power, and being disappointed when ppl with Stock K20’s walk all over u.
Only thing I had against K swaps were that no one had A/C, but now there’s a kit so u can keep AC with your Kswap. Now that is win.
then why are u putting a bseries in your ek 
K series is nice, motor is cheap, but everything to properly swap it makes it add up quick!!!
my friend just bought a complete swap for 6500 motor and every little thing and that was the best deal i have seen in A LONG TIME, if you can afford K series its the way to go, but def not the cheapest
for 200whp and slowly built i would do:
gsr block (you already have)
ls crank (89mm stroke) 100
eagle ls rods (no sense in trying to push ls rods to their limits with arp rod bolts) 250-300
acl’s-100
wiseco/cp 11.5:1 pistons (81.5mm bore)450
gsr head-500
skunk2 springs/retainers-300
skunk2 pro1 cams-350-500
cam gears- 150
hytech replica header-400
sk2 intake manifold-200
tuning-400
assembly/machine work-500
total-3,900
should be really reliable easy 200whp car
or just say fuck the ls crank, AShort is selling eagle gsr rods for 230$
might as well get valves while you’re rebuilding the valvetrain, you can get em for 169bucks for intake/exhaust
oem valves work just fine in my experience, and you can get the compression you want from the pistons without having to deck/cut the head or block or get flat faced valves
im just suggesting if everything else is fresh, why not do it lol
shiny valves > carbonized/burnt ghey valves
I wasnt trying to start a war here. All I was saying is that you can build the B-series making 200whp for cheaper than the K. 200whp for a b20/vtec in my opinion is a mild build.
If you have a reliable machinist and tuner the build should last extremely long. Obviously not as long as an OEM engine but once you start messing with the tune and adding bolt ons the OEM engine isnt going to last as long as it was meant. And completely rebuilding the b series you start with 0 miles, buying a K your usually looking at 25,000-30,000 miles already. And who knows what people have done in those miles, given going to the right shop you could get a limited warranty.
And ive seen numerous b series make that kind of power. If i would have opted for a b20 block or higher comp. aftermarket pistons I could make 230 all day long. Yes k motors can make over 300whp, but im just taking a stab in the dark guess that he doesnt want to spend money to make that kind of power.
and as far as leaving out the IM and header/bolt ons is because you said yourself the K20 w/ bolt ons and Kpro make 230/240. So I left that off my list implying that K20 boltons= B Bolt Ons price wise. But we both know K series bolt ons cost more.
And with the tuning software and harness problems, yes updates can be a pain in the ass but chrome has been out so long that most kinks are worked out and Neptune only costs around $100. Even if you went to hondata the s100 is only 200. With the harness problems if you have a quality person do the work you shouldnt have those problems.
Im really not trying to prove has a bigger dick here. We both know what we are talking about, Im just providing an alternative view to his question that is all. I dont mind debating the point I just dont want this to turn into the usual bullshit bickering.
believe me, as much as i’d love to do a k swap, you are absolutely correct. it’s not in my price range if i want this done within the next 5 years :meh:
and as far as the flat face valves go, it is not a gimmick. Combustion_Contraption(on honda-tech, i forgot his real name) flow tested a set of FF vs. regular from the same manufacturer, and they actually had better flow along with the extra compression.
My reasons for going this route are simple. I need 12.5:1 to run the Skunk2 Pro2 cams. I already did the calculation for compression and thought I was going to be fine but I didnt factor in the porting that was done on the head, yes it was minor but it factors in. So not knowing the exact cc’s of my chambers I opted to get the FF valves over the Regular. I was already buying new valves so the extra cost was minimal.
And the reason for decking the head was to clean it up, it had minor pitting on the surface. Im running an extra thick head gasket to make up the difference though.