how would flat faced valves effect flow when flow tests have to do with the flow out the valves and the valve stem/back of valve is the exact same?
I honestly dont know I read the post awhile ago and I cant find it on Honda-tech. Im apparently remembering it wrong or some part of it wrong. I really wish I could find the post with it. There was a huge debate about it.
It might have had something to do with evening out the velocity in the chamber. Consistent Velocity = More uniform airflow = Better overall airflow. Maybe? Its a long shot but possible I guess. This is going to bug me now. But he had some diagrams and numbers to back up the claim. And he doesnt sell them so idk why he would fake the information.
Either way they still bumped my compression up.
ya, good headwork goes a long way in the n/a world, which is why someone should buy my gsr head that was done by portflow 
I’m not bickering with you, just pointing out facts. I love the B series lol, I hate to talk down on it, but its just the truth.
The guy wanted to build an All Motor B, and I told him I think its a waste of money, and still do.
[91DA my suggestion to u is, do a stock GSR swap, maybe do some cams and engine management…then leave it alone. All motor B’s are just NOT worth it anymore these days. Don’t focus on a number like " i want 200 whp" cuz honestly, u prob dont even know what 200 whp feels like, how fast it is, if you’ll be satisifed with “just” 200 whp, etc. Establish a budget, then move forward from there.
Yes, flat faced valves will raise compression, that’s a given since they are flat faced and ur eliminating 4 small dishes from OEM valves. This inc in comp is negligible.
Flow is determined by intake mani/ports/throats/valve job angles/and the valve tulip itself, not the face of the valve. Some aftermarket valves like Ferrera etc do flow well(better than OEM), but OEM Honda valves flow just FINE, and all that carbonization etc can be bead blasted off…its just aesthetics. Yeah if ur changing valves anyway, then fine pick up Flat faced but its not worth the money just to change out perfectly good valves to replace them w/ FF. Use that money on 13+:1 compression pistsons, cuz thats what the B will need to make good power.
Most of these HT results being posted are miniscule differences where you’ll only notice the diff if ur a pro driver in the 9’s, 8’s, etc.
Deebo - if I didn’t get the GSR longblock as a trade for my old motor, i’d not be doing a swap now, but I had a tranny and all this Bshit left over, it was stupid NOT to do the swap at that point.
I can’t believe you stole that from me
but its ok, I stole it from TOO over at Endyn
Toda is right. The cost of building a reliable B series is going to be really close to the cost of a properly done K swap; however, you have tapped the B series out, where as the K series engine still has room for improvement.
have you guys checked the prices on the wiring harness, kpro, mounts, fuel system etc that it takes to put in a K series
although it can be done with used parts for cheaper it still wont be nearly as cheap as the b series
Yes, and I am assuming either build with be done correctly, and not ghetto fab… I guess that is where I was mistaken.
Have you looked at the cost of good cams, good head work, and proper engine management?
You will nickle and dime yourself to death on a B series build and still have less area under the curve than a K series with bolt ons.
i stole it from krit, who stole it from TOO too lol
for 200whp and slowly built i would do:
gsr block (you already have)
ls crank (89mm stroke) 100
eagle ls rods (no sense in trying to push ls rods to their limits with arp rod bolts) 250-300
acl’s-100
wiseco/cp 11.5:1 pistons (81.5mm bore)450
gsr head-500
skunk2 springs/retainers-300
skunk2 pro1 cams-350-500
cam gears- 150
hytech replica header-400
sk2 intake manifold-200
tuning-400
assembly/machine work-500
total-3,900
should be really reliable easy 200whp car
f the forged pistons.
You can Get inline-pro CTR pistons @ 81.5mm , w/ skirt coating/honda oem rings/pins for 300$
they dropped the price of RS machines pistons to 100 from 180 when i bought them :*(
i was retarded and bought oem honda itr pistons instead of the RS ones because i didnt see them and paid like an extra 150bucks lol :picard:
i would’ve went oem but i went 82.0 so
are you going to be coming up here anytime soon again? still have that 4.9 ITR tranny?
ctr pistons are junk, p30 pistons are known to make more power and are alot easier to tune
and forged pistons with eagle rods give the option to use nitrous if the power isn’t enough, let alone they are safer and an overall better design
now, im still not really familiar with all the codes or whatever for the pistons and such. so could you enlighten me as to what p30 pistons are for example?
b16a pistons
friend used to have kseries in a 2000 teg…felt super quick for 220/230ish
pct pistons (ctr) are pistons from a civic type R
they raise compression drastically in most motors (13+:1 in an ls vtec) are the heaviest stock pistons, the dome is ridiculously huge, and they make tuning with pump gas a pain in the ass
p30 pistons are from a jdm b16 and will give compression in the 11:1 area, are known for having great potential for an na build while not breaking the bank
here is a site that shows you compression, displacement, bore etc and may help you out some
:banghead::meh:
CTR = JUNK? Cmon now.
Pick the piston depending on the cam you plan on using. Anything bigger than 12.0mm lift and more than 250 duration will require higher compression to make power due to overlap.
For a milder cam (ITR/CTR, any “stage 1” cam, etc) you can use a lower comp JDM ITR or b16 piston since u dont lose as much compression to overlap.
So, no CTR pistons are not JUNK…and they are only “easier” to tune if your tuner fails.
Compression is KING for an all motor build.