Yea lol, i had to tear out a wall like that in amherst, wire mesh and cement on a 20x8’ wall. WAT THE FAWKK :2fingers:
shit really isnt necessary lol
http://lowes.jameshardie.com/backerboard/homeowner/hardibacker_installation.htm
Attach Hardibacker® backerboard to subfloor
- Apply a supporting bed of dry-set mortar or modified thinset to subfloor.
- Embed Hardibacker backerboard firmly and evenly in the wet mortar.
- Use the fastener pattern as a guide. Fasten Hardibacker backerboard with specified nails or screws (as listed in “Materials Required”) every 8" over the entire surface. Keep fasteners 3/8" from sheet edges and 2" in from sheet corners.
- Set fastener heads flush with the surface without overdriving.
Glad you don’t thinset the hardibacker… even though that is what is required. Otherwise you have a floating floor. Glad your work is warrantied though.
That’s great
I’m speaking from real world experience
Do you use a hammer and nails when putting up the board on walls or the floor?
And the floor isnt going anywhere, it’s screwed down with 2.5" andonized screws (or 3", cant remember), and you hit the floor joist. Pretty sure it’s staying put. You have a better chance of the board itself cracking, before it lifts up because of not using cement underneath
Edit: I honestly do not care how you or someone else does the job, as long as it looks great, and you are happy with it. There are different ways to do everything.
edit2: This thread is supposed to be about this guys bathroom, not what other people believe are the right methods to do things. Sorry to the OP for this thread derailing, that’s why i don’t post anything that I do, or am working on with my car, or people’s houses because of all the negative comments for no reason, and everyone needs to get in their 2cents for everything. it’s a shame
This floor stuff is good stuff. We are re-doing the floor in our 3 season room in the spring i knowing about the thinset is good to know. I thought that the 3" screws were enough, but i guess not.
thanks guys
EDIT:
as per that link however, that seems to be different backerboard than what i used. This is what i used: http://www.gp.com/BUILD/product.aspx?pid=6388 , but alas, after reading thier document is see this:
Step 2 Laminate DensGuard panels, blue side up, to
subfloor using a latex Portland Cement Mortar (ANSI 118.4)
with 1⁄4 in. x 1⁄4 in. square notched trowel. Embed DensGuard
Tile Backer into mortar while it is still wet. Work in small
areas to prevent mortar from skimming over.
Step 3 Fasten DensGuard panel to subfloor, avoid nailing
into joists to prevent nail pops. Space fasteners 8 in. on center
in both directions, drive fasteners flush with the surface
do not countersink. Embed 2 in. glass fiber mesh tape in
a skim coat of the tile adhesive on all joints.
So good call, and thanks for the future heads up. i just hope now that the bathroom will be ok, its been a little over a year and no cracks yet (fingers crossed!)
↑ Thats what were talking about, not needing to worry because you know it will never pop up or crack. It takes 10 mins to thin set it and then screw it down, why not? Nothing is overkill if you ask me when it come to home repair, i like to know I did it right and did it forever. To each is own though, its just how we do things. regardless I love home improvement shit the more the merrier.
I hate home improvement, it’s a drain on my money and time. Any of you are more than welcome to do it at my house.