Very interesting, didn’t realize they went that far into it. I like it though, level playing field is awesome. When you are a pay to pay racer like me. :burnout:
Here have a look at the rules:
http://www.camaromustangchallenge.com/docs/2006%20CMC%20Rules.pdf
Pretty simple, actually.
Geez, have to build a different car to run! 
Technically I don’t but don’t think my motor will pass the tech. :o)
Interesting though, very cheap to compete, good concept!
Heeeeeey! You were in my run group the last time!!!
Me (Blue Cobalt SS/SC), you, and the Black Vibe GT were the only domestics in the group, that’s why I remember.
I was impressed with those two vehicles. You guys were moving out there. If I remembered right, I even left the cobalt pass once.
Thanks! The Cobalt really proved to be a fun track car, I just wish I had the limited slip differential (got too good of a deal to pass up on one without though). I can’t wait to get it back out there. I think I passed ya, not sure, it’s been a while since I was out, hehehe.
wow this is def somethin i want to do but i dont have that kinda of money right now to spend to run all day. and plus, i’m not sure my car could last that kinda abuse all day LOL
My first track day ever was in my old, stock, +100,000 mile 88 IROC at Nelsons Ledges. The car held together OK but I drove all the way back to Pittsburgh on brake pad backing plates… LOL!
Jeremy,
KeithO, Thanks for the info on getting signed off I was wondering the same as Jeremy!!!
For all that check out this thread I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND these track days!!! Just know your car & its limits & don’t push it beyond your ability & you’ll have a great time with some great instructors that are really knowledgeable & nice.
They also will throw in some great tips I would suggest going out with different instructors and get their different point of views!
Matt
Wow, those SSR’s are hawt!
I was waiting for the pass me comment. LOL
I left you pass, I feel guilty if I held anyone up. I however have a good photo of being ahead of you!
I had so much brake fade I really left alot of time on the track braking very early. Didn’t want to scare any of my instructors to badly! Leave me get a safer brake set up and we will see how the track days go then. Another month or two I will be going again.
Keith O I know how junky the stock brakes on these cars are! I am talking to Ed Miller about a Wilwood kit.
Shocker, your car is so BADASS, why don’t you trade me! 
Jeremy, you might want to try better expendibles before investing in a brake hardware upgrade. Good pads, quality rotors, stainless steel lines and racing quality brake fluid just might be enough. That’s all I have on stock pieces. The bonus is that if I have a failure, replacement parts are as close as the nearest auto parts store. With Wilwood stuff, it’s good but when you have a problem, you’re hosed.
FWIW - I run stock LS1 front calipers and my stock LT1 rears and I can lockup anytime I want and never get fade. All with good expendibles. Remember, since I am mostly self-funded (Domination Chassis is now a sponsor and I’ve started winning contingency money), I need to find the best compromise to fulfill my goals and stock is fine with good stuff.
Ohhh I am running 10.25" Front Stock Rotor/Caliper with Performance Friction Z-Pads, I know they are not the best, but it was short notice to get anything. I am running some Blue brake high temp fluid off Apex Performance. Rear I have aluminum drum brakes. I have the LS1 rear discs in my possesion, which I will use for sure. Stock LS1 fronts I have heard they have spreading issues alot.
You would definitely I need to upgrade the front rotor size from 10.25". I first plan to use the LS1 upgrade, just want to make sure I buy one upgrade.
When you said you got fade, was the pedal soft or was the braking less and less proportional to the pedal effort? The first one is fluid fade and the second is pad fade. Also remember that if you change pad material without changing rotors, you might have an incompatibility and you will reduce the realized friction from the new pads.
If you can fiddle the consummables to your liking, you can put the $$$ into the drivetrain.
It was the second, I could do two laps pushing the brakes end of each straight with more and more loss of braking, by the 3rd lap the pedal was to the floor trying to slow, using the tranny to slow it. Take it easy ont he brakes for 2 laps then I could hammer them again.
Hmmm… Sounds like you overheated the pads and maybe the fluid got a little hot. I did that in my old LS1 at BR with the NAPA Application Engineer Ceramix pads. When I took them off, the pad material looked like black glass. I had to toss 'em.
Don’t give up on your current setup just yet - get better pads and check the compatitibility for rotors - you might need to get them machined or simply get new ones.
I go through 2 liters to change fluid just to make sure there is no old stuff in there. I’ve learned that It’s worth the extra effort.
The fastest lap ever on record for Camaro Mustang Challenge is a 1:09 by a guy in an old, old Mustang with stock brake pieces and rear drum brakes! He’s a buddy of mine.
Yeah got them from some crazy autox’r 
. They weren’t wide enough for him. He likes lot of meat under his STi.:bigthumb:
Love them!
Jeremy save your money. I would do as Keith said. Upgrade lines, pads, & rotors. The fluid you used was ATE Blue.
Most likely it was your lines they have been sitting with the car since it was stock.
I would suggest a new gas cap…lol so your don’t scare the shit out of me on the straightaway again. When I did evasive manuvers cause I thought you grenaded your engine.
Yeah the STi is sweet but is very very forgiving. Not as angry with driver mistakes very forgiving car. I would have died in yours or Mikes. With mine all I had to do was respect the car & have some track knowledge of what to do like lines.
Funny thing is performance to money:
Look at how much you have into your car compared to mine…For the price your car is crazy mine is well what it better be for what I paid.
I am very impressed with your car especially when you compare price. Other than the braking, James Bond fuel slick…lol, & tranny your car would be equal to mine at over half the price.
If you drove my car & I yours I’d be dead and you’d be low minute laps.
Motul RBF 600 > ATE Super Blue.
I’ve had issues with fluid fade going into turn 10. It’s not easy slowing down my 3,500lb pig. However, Motul RBF 600 = no more fade.
I really appreciate the input guys. I would like to stick with stock just because of the cost savings.
I understand about the gentleman that was running fast times in the Mustangs, I have seen hondas with very limited mods doing 1:09 lap times. However I can get a lot more speed on the straights than the mustang that is running in regulations of a CMC class. Granted he still will run faster times around the track, but I could get going faster on straights.
I just feel with the amount of power I have, and potential of speed obtained on track and off. I would like to have a little more clamping force and pad/rotor contact patch.
You guys have convinced me I probably don’t have to go with a Wilwood kit. I am probably going to get a C5 Corvette kit.
My Calipers, Rotors, wheel bearings, hub, etc are 20 years old. I really should replace everything if I am going to be pushing the car at the track. The Corvette kit comes with all that stuff for a reasonable price. I would rather do an upgrade than move lateral and have a chance to not have enough braking.
Will have to try the Motul next time.
Holy stealing a thread!