Yeah, you should replace the bearings and rotors at a minimum. I still think you should try good pads, rotors and fluid first (and REALLY change the fluid - don’t just fiddle the bleeders for a couple of minutes). Remember, if it doesn’t work out and you still want the upgrade, you can probably sell the pads and rotors to get some of your money back.
BTW - I run Castrol SRF brake fluid on my car. $80 a liter delivered (takes two liters to change fluid in the car) but I only have to change fluid once a year… I am not aware of a better fluid and I saw them using it on TV on one of the prototype cars at the 24 Hours of Daytona. Here’s the tech: http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/srf1.htm
Only consider this fluid if you stick with stock pieces. Otherwise, you’re just throwing your money away.
Honestly I will still have the stock brakes probably for the next track day. With my work load now I haven’t had a chance to even take a joyride in the hotrod let alone work on it! More money for upgrades though.
I would think Castrol SRF is overkill for any non-racing application, just based on the cost factor. The main benefit of SRF over Motul RBF600 is its wet boiling point, and if you’re changing the fluid out once a year, you’re really not seeing the benefit (wet boiling point data is based on a two year change interval). Given that most people, particularly those in Group 1, run their “daily driver” pads during Flat Out days, the pads will fade way before the fluid. Maybe I’m missing out on something in your post, and I’m certainly not doubting your recommendation, but I would run SRF or RBF600 particularly if you’ve upgraded the brakes. Stock rotors are fine in most applications, as are the calipers and lines, but the pads and fluid are of particular concern - they need to be upgraded in concert with each other.
All of that said, I’m feel very comfortable that you’re running SRF out on the track when I’m out there!
I kinda agree. If you’re ripping off sub 1:10’s at Beaver Run in a +3,400lbs car with a completely stock braking setup with no ducts, you might need it. Might.
I would personally go for the more traditional (and less expensive) Motul or ATE as a starting point. The problem that I have with the ATE (never used the Motul) is that I see just about everyone that uses it needing to bleed at some point during a track day. I need to reserve my down time for other things that might come.
I’d say attendence will likely be a little light tomorrow with the weather…
I would advise against Super Blue and tell people to go for the Typ 200 Gold, which is the same as Super Blue but without the dye. I know some Volkswagen folks have had issues with the dye eating seals in their clutch. I used it and never had a problem, but I switched it out to Pentosin Racing, and now Motul RBF600. My Jetta weighs around 3100lbs, so for it’s size, it’s a bit of a slug (lapping around 1:17-1:18 at BR). I have upgraded brakes in the front and rear, and Eric and I are working on ducts for my car and his S4.
I know Eric and I were signed up for tomorrow and switched our registration to the 5/26 date based on the weather. I know they were sold out - hopefully they have a decent turn out! When’s the next time you’re out there, Keith?
This is the first I have heard anything about problems with the dye. Most people that I know that use it alternate between the blue and the gold to let them know when they can shut the bleeder (different color coming out). Interesting.
The next time I am sure I will be at BR will be for the NASA races June 10-11. Unfortunately, that is the same week that I am moving… I know my dad is there to instruct today. Geez, he’s always there. It must be nice to be retired.
More money for upgrades though.