I will be painting the wide body on the Lexus coming this spring and I need suggestions for a good non-pearl white. I would kind of like something that has a high contrast to it cause the Vertex Rdige kit has some really nice body lines that the Pearl white cars seem to have muddied by the pearl.
Guidelines:
Non-pearl/metallic ( I find the diamond white pearl vertex ridge cars look weird)
Needs to be fairly easy to paint match down the road (Low car and fiberglass body)
Needs to be fairly cheap post cost wise since I know down the road I will be replacing panels or bumpers on an almost yearly basis
Please post a picture of the color with the factory paint code
I will get the code sat morning when I get to the shop. I used it as a base for the ducati, and we did a repair on a Legacy IRC (why I had the color in the cab for the bike)
Straight white color. No frills, but also no darkening, yellowing, or nonsense pigment added to lessen the color.
what ever you get, if its an entire respray, no need for crazy high end base. Get Nason, $250 will base the entire car and jambs. That way, you done need to spend $120 a pt for base later on to re-spray bumpers and what not, to blend and match the original job.
AND make sure you use the SAME clear for repairs. You can see the difference between clear A and clear B on a repair over some white colors. Even clear thickness (how many coats AND how much was cut/buffed) can change the look and throw off a repair job.
Thanks Mike. I might not even have to do the Jams cause it looks like the only spray base in the Jams with no pearl. Its really just going to be a complete respray of the outside of the car.
How far down do I have to take the current paint though? straight to metal of just through the clear
If the paint is stuck to the car now, paint will stick on that paint later.
Wash the entire car. Spray on, and wipe off (one direction, flip rag, wipe… no circles, you are lifting the crap and wiping it off the panel) with panel cleaner and wax remover. get a gallon of it. Just washing it and taking media to the car will embed the wax and crap into the paint and screw your next color.
then get a DA and 600 the entire car dry. Tight spots use a grey scuffy pad dry.
ready for paint other then removing bumpers, trim, or masking its ready for base… sorta.
You can also use a “scuff and clean” paste in a water solution to grey scuffy the entire car AFTER DA, body work, feathering, etc… S&C has a slight grit and degreaser/cleaner agent in it.
CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN is the key.
Are you doing any body work? Any burn throughs to bare metal need a cover of self etching primer, then 320-600 feathered out into good base/clear original paint. Same with filler, gotta prime and feather the repair out. No need to reprime the entire car if your going whit to white. If there were a ton of primer spots or its an extreme color change, full sealer coat is recommended.
I’m doing body work but its all on the new FRP body nothing on existing car. The only areas that are going to be original anymore are doors hood roof trunk everything else is replaced by the wide body
ok bad ass. then just DA the large flat panels, grey scuffy the body lines, edges, etc (places where the DA might burn through too metal to easily), CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN and paint it.
body work and widebody stuff needs primer, blocking and should get a sealer coat then paint.
follow directions on the paint and chemicals… some need 24hrs min befor paint so they dont shrink, others are shoot, wait only 1 hr and base imediatly… it all depends.
honestly, if you want a sick white, just go to Albany autobod and ask for a custom white. They will mix pure white and a touch of blue to make it brighter. On the lable it will say the mixture ratios for later duplication. It will be a bit cheaper than matching OEM colors. Price goes up the more pigments that go into them to get an OEM match. Since your not matching anything at all, that extra effort and materials are not worth the trouble.
I got a can of white with a touch of blue for $25 a pt and it was a very white color that still popped in the sun very nice.
then spend the savings on better clear, or a box of 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500 and 3K DA pads, rubbing, and polishing compounds, new yellow and new black foam buffing bad.
How about honda championship white? Not really sure if its got any pearl in it. Looks pretty close to what you have now, but it doesn’t hide body lines as much.
