are you accounting for the gas that it takes to fill the lines and stuff? running 2 gallons of gas in a race car just sounds like a terrible idea. What were you doing when the car finally died? Someone made mention that they saw you on the road? So you had problems at the track, then tried driving it home? sounds like user error to me. Shit happens anyways, we all play the game and know what we are getting into. Just rebuild bigger this time!
i just read the thread on honda tech. I think you really should note what the 600 dollars went to that you paid the shop. You and I both know it was not only for the tune. Be a man and tell the full truth, not just the truth that makes you look like this victim.
I am a man, I will admit the truth I have nothing to hide. I am not blaming anyone so nothing but the truth has been told.
1st tune=$400
A few bead rools, silicone elbow and a shirt=$100
1st tune bill and goods= $500
2nd tune 2hr 15 min= $225
Totals…ACTUAL TUNE $625 Goods=$100
Total for everything $725
Since that is the full truth, (can post receipt if you like) you are saying that I am a victum?..WOW
How much time of that tune time was spent dealing with your boost controller and wastegate? How much time was spent taken the intercooler piping off and bead rolling it all? You omitted the labor part of the deal.
who tuned it?
def a fuel starvation issue
Sorry to see your loss.
Cyl 3 melted plug, cyl 4 melted piston all the way thru, correct?
YA there were some other problems thats what the other $100 on top of the tune was for. The 1st tune was 400 nomatter if it takes 1 hour or all day its still 400. On top of the tune there is a small charge for a few bead rools and a silicone 90. I dont understand why you said I am omitting the labor part. If there was no extra labor it would have still been 400. Very rarely will you se a high hp car on the dyno that doesnt need a few things tightened up. I already told you I am not blaming the shop, so why are you acting like you have to defend them?
Jackedup you are correct
I would expect that, cyl 3 is the hottest cylinder on B18/B16, just trying to piece it together.
I was always under the impression that #3 was the last to get fuel. So thats why people tap that cylinder for egt. I could be wrong but I remember hearing that somewhere.
I know that #3 is the cylinder that is always the hottest, or supposed to be, but someone that knows more could chime in on why it is the hottest cylinder
Yes, I was told that cyl 3 is where the pyrometer is supposed to go too.
Cylinder 3 is the hottest due to the combination of having a cylinder on each side, and it’s the closest cylinder to the tranny (with a cylinder on each side).
you sure about that, that dont sound right?
ouch…that sucks