I know of many people running SRs that are under much heavier “financial burdens” then some of the ka-t guys I know.
From my experience people tend to blow all their cash on getting their SR in the car and then have no money to upgrade.
I would not consider a stock SR to be a very “sporty” engine either.
I don’t really get this.
You’ve built a ton of motors blah blabbity blah, and a spun bearing is keeping your car off the road until spring?
How about you bring your car to me, I’ll change your bearing for you.
Oh, and I’m pretty sure NHR does HKS tunes.
Second, the SR was never built to rev high. Hydraulic valvetrain boy-o. Have you seen the stock SR valvetrain? It’s like matchsticks and tin foil.
Go big or go home. So start off with a KA. You’re already planning on buidling a bullet proof bottom end. If you’re building a motor from scratch it really doesn’t matter what it started life out as. IPP has a package deal (Pauter Billet rods and Ross forgies, pins etc.) for about a grand, and a stroker kit for the KA as well, if you want to “go big”. You could have already built a wicked motor for what you’ve wasted.
And the whole “truck” bit. That’s in reference to the KAs predecessor the NAPZ motors. And anyone that knows anything about cars in general knows why truck motors are preferred for builds. Truck components are built for heavy duty service and come with upgraded internals. If you’re planning to throw a ton of boost at a little motor, it’s not its sportiness you should be concerned with, rather its durability.
They have the same pauter/ross kit for the SR for the same price.
Oh, and BTW, stroking a motor kills it’s “high revving” ability. The SR is already almost a perfect square. Stroking it will give it more low end torque and displacement but kill it’s rev.
Now, as to why you lost a bearing in the first place. If it wasn’t knocking on start up, the damage had to happen in that 100km.
There’s the remote possibility the motor was rebuilt with standard bearings on a scored crank.
So that means it was either debris, or oil starvation. It’s very easy for oil passageways to clog. Changing the oil a million times won’t clear them out.
If you’ve built and rebuilt and fancified so many “sporty” engines … I can pull an SR in a driveway in an hour or an hour and a half. Add another hour to tear it down completely to little baggies of parts. Hell, I stripped a CA in under half an hour. Then you can look at the bearings and the crank, figure out what went bad and take it up with the importer instead of asking all us “peons” what’s wrong with your car.
And no, you don’t have to “break in” a used motor. By the time it fires up for the first time, you’ll know how good condition its in, and no matter what you do, you can’t prolong it’s life by babying it for 3000km. The rings have already seated, as have all the bearings. Any high spots at this point will cause engine failure.
The reason people keep blowing up JDM motors is because shady importers roll back clusters to show 60,000km, grab the motors from taiwanese wreck yards for $5 and sell them. Guys are so excited that they even run, they run out and beat the piss out of them. Surprise surprise they break.
Think about it. If you found out that Neons were the hot ticket in Japan, and that Japanese kids were willing to spend $4000 for a Neon front clip, you wouldn’t try and cash in? Now, you could go out and spend days sourcing the cleanest nicest Neon with the lowest KM possible, spend a ton of coin to get it, bring it to your shop, test it, clean it then sell it. Or, you could buy a $50 wreck with 450,000km on it, power wash it, roll back the odometer, say you tested it, wrap it up and ship it off. The one or two people that actually end up going through all the hassle of trying to return it, you send out another $50 motor, still charge them marked up shipping and laugh.
I agree fully on everything you have stated. Well said.
Andrew.
In regards to my KA comments, my opinion is biased and I prefer the engineering advantages of the SR.
And you morons must be right, i should build a KA if I want real power and start buying eBay performance parts to make my car go even faster.
And why bore and get a stronger bottom end, when I can replace with OEM parts? I must be making more power that way then to go bigger.
And my HKS ECU is garbage, HKS is such a budget name in the indusrty, they have no idea how to manufacture good parts…your right i should buy the cheaper alternates.
So in the next 25 minutes i’m going to remove my SR and put a KA in it with an eBay racing ecu for tunability. Thats right, mr200, i can do a complete swap in 25 minutes! not the 1.5 hrs you claim to be able to do it in.
Oh, and I forgot, that everytime you do a swap you tear down the entire motor to make sure the bearings have the right clearances and such, so that may take me another 30 mins. Shit, with doing the teardown & swap in 1.5hours mr200 is a damn fine technician. One might say he is the best in the world!!
Thats it for my ranting, if you think you know it all, then you probably do. See you guys @ the track in the spring, we’ll see how much you know then…
P.S. let me guess you guys are already in the 9’s? lol, u guys are hilarious
The fact that you are saying all KA-Ts are made with ebay parts and ecus already shows your ignorance of the fact that any engine can be built well.
There are ka-ts that are into the 10s incase you didn’t know. I guess that’s a budget setup huh? There are also shops that specialize in KA-T setups, I’ll bet you knew that too though right?
I don’t even know why you started throwing crap around about the ka in the first place when you obviously don’t know much about them. What did you expect people to just sit back while you talk trash about their engines?
lol, it was just my opinion as stated before, i do have a respect for the KA
and I am fully aware that a KA setup can be done properly to achieve excellent output.
I just prefer the layout & engineering advantages to having the SR.
I made my comments in regards to being told that I can find cheaper stuff on eBay and build a KA with it and somehow achieve massive gains.
I spent more because I expected more, i wasnt looking for a basic setup. i was just hoping to run my internals for longer then 100kms
I did not mean for my comments to be taken as ignorance. But statistics and engineering speak for themselves. The SR was designed for better internal efficiencies (airflow, volumetrics, etc.) then the KA’s are. With enough money anything will be fast, but eventually a limit will be reached. And that limit seems to be higher in favour of the SR. U put equal total mods on an SR and you make more power then a KA with the same stuff.
Lets face it, a porsche with 500hp will beat a hyundai with 500hp any day of the week. Even theoretically if they weighed the exact same, the porsche is engineered for better response and the powerband will be longer.
Again, don’t get me wrong, the KA is an excellent motor, but it pales in comparison to the SR, IN MY OPINION!
I would also like to note that I have driven 2 KA-T’s and they didnt seem to be as responsive as the stock SR’s, so my opinion is atleast based on experience, not what I read on some anti-KA forum.
But that is all, tune your KA-T’s & SR’s and we’ll take a run at the track in the spring. Let the 1/4 do the talking
if you leave both motors stock internally, and use a t3/t4 on them with the same fuel management at say 15psi…for sure the sr will be a better motor because the head flows better, and the ignition system is far more advanced…and the motor is farrr stronger…but if u spend 15G on both of them internally, it will boil down to who builds them better…
I’d like to thank those deeply involved in this debate for an extremely entertaining thread.
On that note, it should be locked and archived because I believe from here on it will just go downhill. 
Good luck on your rebuild and hopefully we will see you at the track next year - I’d love to see and hear a nicely built and stroked SR20/22/24/whatever.
LOCKED
GT
are you new?
this thread doesn’t seem all that locked to me.
atleast not yet…
meh, the thread is dead anyways.
Bearing spun due to oil starvation, almost definatly. Most SR oil pans are dented when they arrive regardless of how careful the shipping was. Most inexperienced installers look at them and say “that looks fine”, it’s usually not. On the SR the oil pick up is VERY close to the pan, a slight almost unnoticable dent will cause a restriction in the amount of oil that can be sucked up by the pickup. The result is you will have oil pressure when you check, but before long as things warm up and you start beating on it, you will get starvation. If you don’t believe me, pull off the lower oil pan, you’ll likely see a circular imprint from the oil pickup where it’s hit the pan.
my $0.02
-Martin.
good call…i always advise everyone to take off the pan and bang it out even if u only see a small dent on the corner which is 99% of the time guaranteed to be there …
I thought small, minor dents on the edges/corner of the pan aren’t that big of a deal?
As long as the area directly under and adjacent to the pickup are flat/true it should be ok, no?
pan is fine, but I havent checked the pickup yet.
I checked pan prior to motor installation and after…if I had low pressure it wouldn’t have taken 110kms under load to blow. Well, anything is possible, but unlikeley given pressure. Something else starved the bearing. But I am presently unsure of what, all I know is oil pressure was good & so was oil.
Ripping motor apart on the weekend, will post results for those interested. Will probably also take pics to document the build. I have pics of everything sofar, so why stop now?
I’m thinking either the JWT 2.4L or Tomei 2.2L, with 8.5 pistons & 1.3mm Greddy Head Gasket.
If anyone has any known good formulas for building SR’s let me know. I’m going to be talking to someone who has developed a few of them for racing FWD B13 NX’s
Again I will post results.
I should probably start a new thread for building SR’s? depends on my findings I guess.
1.3mm greddy gasket eh?
they only make them in 1.0, 1.2, 1.4, 1.6
HKS makes a 1.3.
I have a 1.2 in mine, and i think Sasha will be using a 1.2 as well.
Building an SR is no different than building any other motor, so i don’t know what you will document. You are not the first, and deffinately wont be the last to build an SR around here.
Good luck anyway.
PS. did you get your motor from United Motion Supply?
Certain components will work better with others and certain kits offer better values. That is what i’m after. My source told me 1.3mm Greddy, if Greddy doesnt make it maybe he meant HKS. who knows, all I heard was 1.3mm Greddy.
Nothing is in my hands yet so your probably right. And yes, I got it from UMS, im the guy with the black S13 Cal. (Usually around blue probe and the now dead gunmetal pulsar)
And just document the build mostly for my own benefit, to enclose a portfolio if I choose to sell, or just to show others of what as done. Good for other people to see so they know what is out there and they know I can install it for them for the right price.