This is still a ways off in the future, but over the winter I’m looking to pull the engine in my car and do something with it. It seems to be burning oil, but I cant narrow down the cause, so a complete re-build is probably in order. My goal is a reliable (key word here) 300whp. There will be no corner cutting or cheaping out on anything. What should I be looking at to acheive my goals? Any machine shops reccommended that deal with these engines? Will also have to upgrade the rest of the driveline to reliably handle the extra hp. What are the stock 5 speed transmissions usually rated for? Need to figure out options for clutches also, mines slipping I’ve discovered.
from my own research which is still limited, since this is even futher in the futher for me like new winter. Your best bet is a t28bb from an s15 I would pick one up new. I would stay cast mani for reliability. Intercooler obviously, full 3in from turbo back. Injectors I dont know the size and some fuel management dont know either. Like I said I’m still a noob but I I’ve pretty much made my choice on turbos so far. Hope you get lots of help here cuz it gona be useful for me too.
Car came with Megan equal length exhaust manifold, Megan 3" turbo back exhaust, Greddy air filter setup, APEXi Power FC ecu. I’ve added a FMIC and have the Commander Pro software in my laptop for the engine management, but am having problems with USB adaptors for the commander cable. Why APEXi didnt just put a usb connection on it I dont know, but I have to get a laptop with a serial port and transfer the software over. Choosing a turbo, MAF and injectors are something I have to do. Probably going to pull the head off and have it re-built, maybe re-ring the bottom end if its not too bad, forged pistons maybe, complete bottom end re-build if anythings out of spec. I’ll only know how far I have to go with the re-build once the engine is apart. How much power/psi boost would be considered “reliable” on a fresh stock bottom end? With forged pistons?
from my reserach of past 3 years and since i m going sr soon to, i would say the bottom end is good up to liek 500whp, enjuku racing runs stock bottom ends both there drift 240’s which push well over 400whp, so yeah, i would say just rebuild back to stock bottom end and spend all your money on your head, cuz thas the gay part of a sr, port the head and get some nice valvetrain and some cams, and your good to go with s15 turbo, or a disco potatoe.
Thats what I’ve found from my research, that the stock head is one of the major drawbacks of the SR. Whats the typical cost of rebuilding/porting an SR head? I’m having trouble deciding which turbo to choose for my application. I dont know much about turbos.
theres a tread on nico where they build the head of an sr for up to 9000 rpms although i doubt i can be done and theres been a couple of car mags that have done head work and shown the results via dyno, think it was modifed mag.
I just finished building my SR20.
Recommendations? Sell your block and buy a used one that doesnt burn oil. There is no need to build a block for 300whp. All you are asking for is trouble, whether it be leaks somewhere, improper parts installation or break in. There are too many variables that come up. A stock block is perfect and can take the punishment.
If you still decide to build your block Gord Bush Performance does a great job. They are honest, reliable and do good work. Go with the basics, Forged pistons, stronger rods, metal headgasket and you should have a motor that is able to take 500whp. Pick up the NOV issue of modified, you can see the buildup in it.
I dont know if the bottom end is the cause of the oil burning. The car seems to blow oil smoke when cold/after idling for a long time, which leads me to believe its valve seals. Also was thinking maybe a stuck ring since it sat for so long, but that would show on a compression test would it not? I also think the turbo is on its way out, its not oil smoke like I see on typical oil burning engines, its a lighter blue, fluffy smoke, almost like the oil is hitting something extremely hot and instantly vaporizing. I’m not fouling plugs either, and with the amount of smoke that comes out the back sometimes, it should definatly show on the plugs…
Are you:
- Going to run a large turbo at run 20+ psi of boost on race gas?
- Going to rev to 8500rpm and beyond?
If you did not answer yes to either of these questions…do not build your SR. Nobody can build a motor as well as the factory…not around here anyway.
No and probably no. Probably just going to spec it out and replace what needs replacing if thats the case.
im in the same boat as you… im smoking on idle only occasionally and thought it may have been the turbo… i had it checked and its the rings so i have to do a rebuild sometime soon… i use Tony… i think his shop is called pro plus and he is located kennedy and eglinton… great and easy to deal with… he suggested forged pistons and a metal head gasket too… if u do it, may as well make is strong enough to handle future upgrades
Head gasket = yes.
Forged Pistons = no.
Changing the internals of the motor often have side effects that most people simply do not consider. For example, changing to forged pistons often changes the combustion frequency within the motor. No big deal right? Wrong. Now your factory knock sensor doesn’t work as intended. The frequency the knock sensor is tuned for the old engine configuration and now the motor is knocking and you and the ecu have no idea it’s happening…so what was supposed to make your engine stronger (forged pistons) will actually contribute to its early death.
I dont know if the bottom end is the cause of the oil burning. The car seems to blow oil smoke when cold/after idling for a long time, which leads me to believe its valve seals. Also was thinking maybe a stuck ring since it sat for so long, but that would show on a compression test would it not? I also think the turbo is on its way out, its not oil smoke like I see on typical oil burning engines, its a lighter blue, fluffy smoke, almost like the oil is hitting something extremely hot and instantly vaporizing. I’m not fouling plugs either, and with the amount of smoke that comes out the back sometimes, it should definatly show on the plugs…
My brother put a used hx35 in his supra and it was smoking the same way that you described. Mayb you should check your turbo seals, they’re probably your problem if you have good compression.
^^^ so in doing so you would then have to upgrade sensors and an ecu as well? So it is better to just go with oem piston replacements?
guys… honestly…
Never rebuild an SR20… waste of time money and effort…
buy a block that runs, dosent leak and boost her…
stock blocks will handle 400HP(just install Rockerstoppers… $75 part that will save your $5Grand motor setup)
even a ka24de will handle 350 on stock internals…
no point building it to be reliable when they are made that way from the start…
for a clutch go with a Spec stage 2… tried tested and SOLID
Exhaust, 3" DP to 3" piping, and a highflow cat… anybrand will do, depends on personal fav really… a 3" pipe is the same no mater the brand… less bends in piping more free flowing it is…
FMIC, Large FMIC, 24" at least
and a turbo timer is very important… turbos gotta warm up a bit to run and cool down to shut off to lengthin logivity.
i strongly recommend simple things, oil catch can, oil cooler, and solid engine and tranny mounts…
Thanks for all the good information so far. Got the exhaust, FMIC, catchcan, turbo timer, need an oil cooler still and new tranny/engine mounts are in the future. Need to re-build the rear subframe too. Anyone around here sell SPEC clutches?
First off without going into details there is a million things to consider when pushing the 400hp + limits with an engine. How do I know cause there is a giant hole in my bank account from learning the hard way. We purchased an engine from Enjuku racing from their drift team. They used to carry 4 engines. 2 in the cars and 2 as back-ups. We purchased one of the back-up motors. The bottom end is not stock not even close to prove it here is a pic of the piston we destroyed.
nice… scarred metal fragments of a monster are always nice to see…
but that motor was stroked out to a 2.2L.
i would expect larger forged pistons and stronger rods…
if not then WTF did you buy…lol
even you guys at intense the sr20 specialists should vouch for the stock internals on ruffly 300WHP
rebuilding the head with solid valve train will help with high revving tolerance but who the hell revvs past 7grand when you lose powerband after 6grand on most turbo setups.
a solid motor with an s15 turbo broken in properly at high boost should make 300WHP…
Lumpys made 326WHP and it lasted what… 6months before he blew the turbo?
stock redtop, T-28turbo, proper tune, spec2 clutch, high boost…walbro fuel pump, i thin he was only runnin 550CC’s aswell.
one of the fastest 240’s ive seen… when you drift shifting gears in a straight line… you got too much, lol
^eaxctly the point was that Gyani was claiming that Enjuku used stock bottom ends in their drift teams vehicles far from the truth.
An Apexi Headgasket, Arp Studs and Rocker stoppers with a very good tune will get your engine pretty reliable to around 400hp as far as only the engine goes. However there is alot more then just doing that to be able to make that power obviously.
I will agree the stock bottom end is very stout but far from bullet proof.
#1 make an oil cooler yourself, theres a DIY here somewhere;)
#2 get SOLID mounts… will be loud and “rickity” but your gona get used to it and you will never experiance a blown mount which will make you think everything is broken but the mount…
#3 Dont rebuild the Rear subframe… find a used JDM rustless subframe, pay to powdercoat it and replace your stock one(might aswell do a 2way dif when your at it)
and for parts… go to intense… if youve never installed a clutch have them do it for you… not something you wanna play around with, may cost you your motor and tranny.