Haha awesome nik, you tell them. Ya I highly doubt it would crack, when i drive the car extremely hard, sometimes I shut it off right away, and thus, no fluids are moving through (no oil, coolant). Does it crack? I dont think so. The temperatures arent extreme enough for it to crack, if you went from extremly hot to extremely cold then it would definately crack.
ALright, first off it shouldn’t be too difficult to get that bolt out. Use some penetrating oil for sure, even spray it for a couple days in a row. The extractor can do wonders, other good methods are welding a bar to the bolt itself and then using the bar as a wrench.
You can use heat for sure, however there is definetly the possibility of it cracking. If someone doesn’t believe me I can provide pictures of a cracked housing because someone tried to weld the flapper shut. Keep in mind welding is a very localized extreme heat, but with a torch held in one spot for a long time it could very well happen. The goods news is you shouldn’t have to get it that hot to free it up. It needs to be hotter than a heat gun though, a propane torch might work, oxy/acet would be perfect.
ok I’m not going to go into the finer points of welding … but as someone who has TIG welded 40+ cast iron housings , the ONLY REASON it will crack is becuse the WHOLE things was not heated… cast IRON is A) very ductile B) expands under heat c) a frikin casting so it has pockets where hot gases sat, expanded then contracted leaving spaces… ANY 1month welding shool kid can tell you, or should be able to tell you that welding ANY iron casting requires pre heating, or you’ll be chasing fractures all over the place… If someone is getting cracks in thier housings it’s becuse they don’t know how to weld cast properly, period… you need to use a full oxy flame and pre heat the whole housing. To free it up , to be SURE you free it up, make it GLOW orange…
this section of the board is just riddled with misleading and ill concived information… yikes. 180 made allot of corrections earlier as well on this topic.
100% agree. Just remember, we are not dealing with people who have their welding liscense, no everyone knows the right method or proper filler to use to weld every material.
Also agree, always good to straighten out false information when you KNOW the right answer.
I think the idea is you take your parts to someone who DOES know what they are doing. That way you don’t end up with broken or sub=quality parts or in this case a false impression of what happens when you weld cast Iron, then passing on false information… it’s not like it only happens here, it happens everywhere… people just need to be diligent in shooting down misleading info. I hope DETS14 managed to get through the forest to see the trees so to speak…
Just to let you konw heat was my last option when i was getting mine out and it made a nice big crack at the waste gate hole. Should of took a pictuer…
… as with all metals you heat it evenly… if it did crack then chances are it was cracked already… in fact it’s a pretty well established fact that garretts are susceptable to hairline fractures between the wasstegate and the exducer because of the heat differential caused by the wastegate actuation… I’ve had LOTS of T03 castings to prove that… most of then have been welded as well.
If you’re gonna quote me, please leave the whole message intact instead of editing it to make a point.
I was just trying to explain the difference between your turbo heating up doing its job, vs heating it externally.
That being said, 4 bolts will more than likely do the job.
and DETS14 … your logic is a big part of why we don’t get turbo cars anymore.
And why people buy turbo timers.
I hope there was some kind of lost sarcasm in there, or you’ll be buying turbos more often than most.
As for ragging on the tech section, while I do agree to a point, I hardly think welding/heating of cast opinions is really a huge disservice to the board. Especially because there was nothing in this post about welding.
Sententiously cluttering a post with even valid information is just as bad. Look at the fluid dynamics advanced discussion in the ram/air vs. shorty air intake. The debate rages on, all over something that’s going to make a negligible difference at best.
?? My logic? Why does my logic come into question? I said “I” think that it would crack, so did Nik, that is MY opinion, if you wanna rag about something do it to someone else who deserves it. I still can’t understand wtf you are talking about, Clown. As for the sarcasm comment, it was not at all. For your information I have yet to buy a new turbo, and I do not see why I would ever need to.
that would be the logic I was talking about
Borrowed from the DSM FAQ because … well I guess Clowns don’t know what they’re talking about
What is the purpose of a turbo timer?
The basic accepted concept of cooling the turbo in your engine, is to allow your turbo to cool off properly when you stop the car, by feeding it a steady stream of fresh oil, and thus likely preventing coking of the bearings (gunk buildup). Most manufacturers of turbo-charged vehicles recommend idling your car after you get where you’re going, for at least 30 seconds, longer if you have really been boosting it. A turbo timer allows you to stop the car, park it, remove the key and lock the door, while a small timer device keeps your engine running for a pre-set period of time.
That would be what I was trying to explain … not that your turbo will crack … just die.
In all honesty I’d WAY rather have a cracked turbo than one with shot bearings 
all SR t25’s are 5 bolt.
i have never seen a 3 bolt t25 you are thinking of a different turbo
that would be the logic I was talking about
Borrowed from the DSM FAQ because … well I guess Clowns don’t know what they’re talking about
What is the purpose of a turbo timer?
The basic accepted concept of cooling the turbo in your engine, is to allow your turbo to cool off properly when you stop the car, by feeding it a steady stream of fresh oil, and thus likely preventing coking of the bearings (gunk buildup). Most manufacturers of turbo-charged vehicles recommend idling your car after you get where you’re going, for at least 30 seconds, longer if you have really been boosting it. A turbo timer allows you to stop the car, park it, remove the key and lock the door, while a small timer device keeps your engine running for a pre-set period of time.
That would be what I was trying to explain … not that your turbo will crack … just die.
In all honesty I’d WAY rather have a cracked turbo than one with shot bearings ;)[/quote]
I know exactly how a turbo timer works, and exactly WHY it is needed, so why are you telling me this? Notice how I said “sometimes”, meaning other times (and most) I idle the car for atleast 20 seconds depending on if im in a rush. Stop trying to make me look like a fool, because of your indecision to read my post in detail. Its funny, their are a lot of supposed know-it-alls in this forum, pathetic.
this post has nothing to do with turbo timers either… I don’t see that stopping you from both talking about it AND carrying on through 3 posts so far about it… maybe a bit of personal reflection on this one would be in order…
Now were off topic… Just bolt it down with 4 bolts and leave the other broken one in there if you cant get it out. And maybe buy a new housing or get a used one when some one upgrades.
all this time spent worriing about it and you can get a NEW repleacement turbine housing for @ $50
The point it I dont want to have to remove the turbo, I dont want to go through all that work. If I dont get that bolt out, ill just leave it like that. Thanks tho.
LOL… wow, what’s your plate number so if I’m the hwy and following you I know to pass you, with that kind of reasoning who knows what else your chimped out on fixing or replacing… yikes.
sorry man, but that’s just a bizarre attutude to take to keeping your car in ’ good repair’.
Bizarr? It wont leak dude, thats why I dont give a shit. If you wanna pass me on the highway, go right ahead, tell it to someone who cares.
That makes no sense to me at all. That’s excessive and paranoid.
Being short one bolt is 99.9% of the time not a problem. You’re a “self proclaimed builder” you should know fundamentals of strength in engineering.
At 10~ psi … it’s not going to leak. And as scary as leaked exhaust from the car in front of you flying at your windshield is … I dunno, swerve and avoid?
DETS14 I did read your post in detail. How much of a hurry can you be in that 60 seconds will be too long? That’s what a turbo timer is for … people that can’t wait. Sit in your car, take up smoking … I dunno. If you don’t want to take your turbo off (it is a PITA) take care of it.
I’m not trying to be a “know it all” or make you like like a “fool”.
I was questioning your logic.
And rotorkami, you haven’t made a single post in this thread that had anything to do with the subject - unless you’re suggesting DETS14 weld his extension on instead.
I was also replying to an earlier post to the guy who started the post in the first place, in response to something he’d said within the post … to me that’s on topic.
Again, if you want to quote me, leave the post intact. Of course if you leave the part of the post that WAS ON TOPIC in the quote, it could be misleading.
And I apparently am an idiot. I was thinking about the wrong part of the turbo altogether. You guys use different terminology … to me that would be an 02 housing. Before there were 02 sensors, we just called them part of the downpipe.
But yes, they are 5 bolts … for some reason I was thinking outpipe. Wondered why people were talking about cast LOL
4 bolts tight with the metal gasket intact (assuming they still use the same one) will be more than adequate. The worst thing that’s going to happen is a small exhaust leak downstream of the turbo. So a little pfft pftt pfft sound is about the worst you can expect.
… I’m almost at a loos on how to respond to these comments, they seem both obtuse and inane all at once.
however not one to walk away from a contest of big dicks ( as it seems this has turned into…) :roll:
Excessive ? paranoid ? how so? cars in general, as an overall industry standard are sub contracted to Tier 1 to 3 suppliers & built by the lowest bidder. You want a car that not built to the lowest standard they can get away with then you need to look at a $80K and up car. My father had a company that for 5 years ( till policy changes at at the manufacturer end made ins. impossible to get ) did QA/ sorting/eng. testing… of parts for us and JDm compaines… he was making millions at it, just off of a few 400-404 corridor tier2-3 supplier, becuse the parts were so close to minimum tolerances a 1-2% drop in quality put 1000’s of parts out to pasture… maybe being ignorant of the realities of the auto industry gives you a false sens of security and knowledge , but I certainly have NO misconceptions of the facts.
"You’re a “self proclaimed builder” you should know fundamentals of strength in engineering. "
I’m actually a desinger and builder with a BSc. and 20 years of building to back it up. What I know is that when building a part or component for ANYONE, you don’t take the shortest route to get there, becuse that’s usually the cheapest in both quality and safety. If your happy with using less then the min. standars of the OEM build quality then fine , you do that… but some of us know better ( see above paragraph ) and go beyond it always. But as far as the 5 bolt garrett setup, those 5 bolts are there for a reason, becuse their is no gasket a VERy solid seal is required with one bolt missing… how are you suppose to get a solid seal ? maybe on a circle where 4 bolts placed evenly around it and tightened to a specific torque spec will work, but if you havent’ noteced the flange on the 5 bolt T series turbine housings are NTO circular nor are then evenly spaced… you think they may have done it for a reason.?? yah think?!
as far as my comment about it, the fact that a) he dosen’t care and really only wanted the fastest and easiest way to do it, was the impetus for my comments… it’s indicitive of the overall state of the car given that things do go wrong with a car throughout it’s life, and having seen the car ( previous owner ) it’s not new … 
"And rotorkami, you haven’t made a single post in this thread that had anything to do with the subject - unless you’re suggesting DETS14 weld his extension on instead. "
as Iv’e mentioned, you going off on this tangent in the first place not only makes you hypocritical but only serves to perpetuate what you see as an apparent ’ slight to your delicate personality’ … it might have been more well received and constructive if you’d pm’ed me with this instead of trying to piss on the bigger tree…
as a concluesion I’m l33t, your not … nyah! nyah! ( the actual level of this the sillyness… )