during the summer…I took out my whole rear end, and put in my new rear end in around 2 hours flat…and that was my first time ever doing it…power tools help a ton. I wouldnt mind dropping my rear end again to take out my gas tank since dropping the rear end was the easiest thing I have ever done…Not to mention I have lowering springs I need to put on anyways.
Anyways, im gonna pick up some new plugs tomarrow and throw them in…im gonna go back to the TR6’s and see if it makes a difference.
tr6s are for generally low boost, i would go with a tr-7 if you are around 6-10 psi, if you are higher go with a tr-8
why the hell would you want a hotter plug? u want the colder plug under boost! :ponder
yes…I was running TR6’s @ 15psi for over a year and didnt have any problems…with those plugs, I had my tune dialed in perfect. Then I started getting the misfire issue so I went to a little bit colder plug (I have the TR7’s in right now) because the porcalen part of the plug sits in more then the TR6’s…and alot of high boost guys with my same setup with the tr7’s were adding 5* more timing because the plugs…however, im not sure if these plugs are better for my car, then the tr6’s…im worried that since the porcalen part of the plug sits farther in then the blow torch TR6’s…that on 15psi with my T72 that im getting “spark blow out” right when I go WOT.
Go back to your old plugs that didn’t misfire.
I plan on it, just to see if this goes away…but like I said…this misfire Started with my old plugs, which is one reason why I went to a step colder plug, new coils, wires etc…but now its only doing it as soon as I go WOT and it downshifts…it pops like its bouncing off the rev limiter, then it clears up and pulls harder then ever now (I added more fuel up top today)…im thinking Maybe I have a little bit too much fuel added where its popping around (3900-4200rpms where my turbo is fully spooled and my MAF is maxed) so im gonna try taking out a little bit more fuel right around there and see if it gets better or worse…little by little I will figure this out.
you’re going 5v @ the maf?!.. ummm u might wanna sort that out too…
what do u mean 5V @ the MAF?
I use 2 tables to do fuel tuning on my car…the PE vs. RPM and the MAF. Unfortunetly, they do not make a aftermarket MAF for our cars…So we hafto turn up the voltage to 11,500mghz and shut off the MAF fail frequency code. Stock, our MAF’s max at 37.65lb/min…which was about 9psi on my old T70. After 37.65lb/min, we hafto “guess” and adjust our MAF’s depending on our turbo setups etc. Right now, Im having the best performance around 58-59lb/min…if you guys come down tomarrow, I will show you everything…HP Tuners is MUCH different then any import tuner…when I brought my car to synapse to get a dyno tune, I had to use My Hp tuners and morgan would tell me where I need to add/take out fuel etc…he looked at my tuner software (HP Tuners) and didnt know where to start, So i did everything.
Our MAF’s are not removable. They are Built into our whole Throttle body…and they do not make a aftermarket TB or MAF for 3800 series 2 motors.
maf scaling is NORMALLY measured in voltage… the more air being pulled past it, the higher the voltage is a general rule of thumb… 5 volts is MAX… which when hit would basically throw your ecu for a hissy fit and make it wanna do shit that aint right and try to adjust with parameters it doesnt know so to speak…im at around 4.7-4.8 volts… easy way of trying to get around that is to put the MAF in a larger tubed housing… larger tube slows down the speed of the air rushing past it, so u adjust for the size of the tube and re-tune… anyways… id like to see this software tomorrow.
correct…this is why we turn off the MAF high frequency fail signal…so when we MAX our MAF, it doesnt throw my PCM into a panic attack and cut my fuel injector pulse inhalf…after our MAF is maxed, we hafto “fool” it into thinking theirs more air, even tho we no longer have a accurate reading. This is why we adjust our MAF curve along with our PE. vs RPM tables. This theory for our tuning hasnt failed any of us yet, and has put our cars into the 11’s on the stock MAF.
for example…
my MAF maxes at 37.65lb/min…however, I have my MAF set to max at 59lb/min…even tho, at 59lb/min its not longer a accruate reading as if it were under 37.65…so im fooling my PCM, making it think my MAF is reading 59lb/min but it actually cant measure it anymore.
this website might make you understand it even more then i can…
im not sure if you guys still wanna stop over tomarrow…supposed to be real shitty out
AWD pwns son… sti ftw :mwahaha
yah but i was gonna bring you guys for a ride so you can see what my cars doing…it will help make things easier to figure out what it is…and well, if theirs snow on the roads, I aint moving.
You guys got snow? I haven’t seen any all year.
It icing out right now as we speak and its supposed to turn to snow late tonight and all day tomarrow…only supposed to get up to 2" tho
Note: This is what my car runs like when its running healthy…
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/92d1fa3a-37df-4400-99db-99dd0011d14e.htm
that SRT-8 went 12.7 @ 108…owner of the GN is the origional owner from 87. Car only has 35K on it. I/H/E, MT drag radials and stock turbo boosted to 17psi.
Hand the car over to Morgan or some tuner and let them take a look at it.
I say its time for a speed density tune. Get rid of the maf cause the readings from it are more skewed under forced induction. Red Line might be able to tune it but Im not sure if they have liscensing for the V6 cars. Morgan (Synapse Motorsport) refuses to purchase software to tune domestics cause it just isnt profitable for him and he probably would never see enought business in domestics to brake even on it. But, if you were to purchase HP Tuners Im sure he wouldnt mind putting your car on the dyno and trying his best
im not saying ur car is slow… i mean the sti and it were side by side basically… a bolt on sti like the one i was in should be good for mid 12’s at 105 or so when running properly. majority of the ET is made up in the launch… from a roll your car SHOULD have pulled away, but the thing is that if i were to put the sti i was in on the dyno my car was tuned on itd be shy by maybe 100hp and 100tq…
i already said this…
I had my car at morgans shop…we threw it on the dyno to do some dyno tuning…I was controlling my HP tuners…He was very impressed by my car and the power it put down for the conditions we were in.
I refuse to go to redline motorsports. All my buddys with their vettes go there, and dont have a problem but I spent a year trying to get my car in there for a dyno tune. He said he didnt have the software and i told him I had HP Tuners and he said he has tuned with HP Tuners multiple times and he could do it…so I set up a time and date to get my car tuned, and he didnt call me back to check up on the dyno tune date, or answer any of my calls…truthfully i dont think they wanna throw my car up on the dyno because they arent familier with it and are affraid of grenading the motor on his dyno. I was around scott and tony all summer long (the 2 guys that work for redline) and they didnt mention anything about my appointment for the tune.