This is so shitty…as if my hours didn’t get cut enough at work, now the one full day i have this week i can’t make it because of this…
The brake light is usually on in the honda because the ebrake lever doesnt go completely down…but when i push it down physically, it usually goes off and stays off.
Just backing out of my driveway, it didn’t go off when i pushed down…wierd, i thought…
I drive down my street, light is still on…i get a bit worried, i stop at the end of my street…oh wait, no…i didn’t stop, i actually had my foot right to the floor with no pressure, and kept rolling…then a second later the brakes grabbed and i stopped. They didn’t grab hard…but enough to stop me from a 10mph roll…
i babied it back down the street and into my driveway, checked fluid, looked fine. I know it has all new pads, and i was gonna put on 2 new rotors today too…
Feels just like Beck’s did that one night over summer when i had to bring him fluid at 1AM lol…and that ended up being his master cylinder…i’m assuming i have the same problem.
Any other suggestions though? I just called Skrappar, he was out to lunch, but before the NYSpeed discount it was $49 i think for a new one…
Before i go and buy it though…what else could it be? It’s not a blown line…i’d have no fluid left if that was the case…
so me and my buddy mark checked it out, and it’s losing some fluid…
so he stands outside and pours some in while i sit inside and pump…and wtf is that noise? sounds like somebody spitting up…behind me…under the passenger side of the rear seat…FUCK!
I was wrestling in the back of the car trying to get the back seat out so i could put the old Z engine in for it’s delivery this weekend…and musta somehow pinched or punctured the line…we can clearly see where it’s coming from…but can’t clearly see the hole itself…it’s tucked up inbetween the seat backing and the wall/panel a bit…
Makes sense too…car was fine this morning when i pulled it in the driveway to work on it a bit, and then when i was done trying to remove that seat, the brake light i noticed was on and staying on…
Anybody here have a site where i can find a diagram of the brake lines for a 1991 Honda Civic DX 1.5L 2 door Hatchback? I wanna know how much of a pain in the ass it is gonna be to take out the whole line…
What he said made sense to me.
Cut out he bad part of the line, cut at the part with the least amount of rust, take out the bad piece, grab a new section of line, cut it to the length you need, flare ends, put in unions, bam presto fixo.
So Sears Auto tells me that they have a flat rate…$15 evaluation, which they do not charge me for if i decide to have it fixed there…the LOL comes into play when i found this out…
Sears claims that they have a flat rate of $39 and change for every 5ft of steel brake line they replace, and that 5ft is the minimum…depends on how big the line is though if i need the whole thing replaced…
Called a private shop, and the guy told me that “all those brake lines and fuel lines run together, and they’re probably all corroded and would need to be replaced…probably would exceed the value of the car”
Talk about two different stories…
Im gonna go clearify with sears that what they said is in fact that i interpreted…and ask if i could get it in writing…explaining to them what other shops had told me about the job if they ask why i want this information in writing…
Well, the private shop guy is probably somewhat right. The lines usually do run together at some point, and on a 91 that has spent it’s life in the salt chances are they are rusted as shit.
Joe’s answer is your best bet. Find exactly where the leak is, hope there is enough good non-rusted line to cut the leak out, flare both ends where you cuy it and stick a replacement piece of line in there.
I had to do this on my old Fiero and ended up replacing both front lines because by the time I got the leaking one seperated from the good one, they were both leaking. If you take this to a shop be prepared for them to hit you with a big bill if they don’t take their time and cause all your lines to start leaking.
well since the lines run together and might be corroded badly, cut the bad line at the rear and disconnect the fitting, and remove it from the master cylinder. then run a new line next to the bad line, zip tie it carefully to the old line, and then connect it to the master cylinder and the rear drums. i had to do brake lines on my aunts 95 metro and i didnt bother taking out both rear brake lines because of that they ran next to the fuel pressure and return lines and they were rusted to shit.
i work at sears and i think they do charge 11 dollars a foot ,its 33 dollars for labor plus what the lines cost , a 3 feet section would cost 39.00 plus the cost of line ,also the brake eval would be 15.00 bucks if you do get the work done it will come off your bill , we do do a shit load of brakes but if you do want a deal go with vaule muffer and brakes i know the guys at the one on transit, thats were i go if i need my car worked on
i work at sears and i think they do charge 11 dollars a foot ,its 33 dollars for labor plus what the lines cost , a 3 feet section would cost 39.00 plus the cost of line ,also the brake eval would be 15.00 bucks if you do get the work done it will come off your bill , we do do a shit load of brakes but if you do want a deal go with vaule muffer and brakes i know the guys at the one on transit, thats were i go if i need my car worked on
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u work there but take ur work somewhere else. u must be a writer or a tech one