2 subs is alot of weight… and if done properly one sub will sound abizillion times better anyway… in my opinion
IMO everyone gets 2 subs because they think it will sound better and be better than 1. but in reality like u said ----^ one sub is just as good if not better if properly installed. And u save the weight. U dont need 2 subs, u arent in a competition car. so run one 10 or 12 inch and u will be set…audio is so over rated
Yes, but if you have 2 really good subs and 1 crappy one, well you know the rest. The best sub on the market that single handily can take anything is the jl 10w7 or 12w7 correct me if im wrong. Two of those and you get the most crisp basss ever.
2 subs does not be twice the power… and you can make 1 sub outperform 2-3 anyday and as for a good custom shop www.teamalltech.com
i have this sitting around still if anyone wants it… 12W3.V2 D2’s
I would buy em but i need those tie rods first.
I’m going for quality over volume, but the thing is most of us have 128/192kbps mp3s burned as audio cd’s so getting high quality components would be unnecessary, no? I do like having a nice soundstage at the front with tweeters mounted higher up than by my feet lol, but most tweeters I’ve heard in aftermarket speakers (on my friends’ ricer cars…3 15" inch subs systems and such, overpowered, unnecessarily loud…all that crap…no offense to anyone, but to each his own I guess) are ear piercing loud and too harsh, at higher volumes especially, even using a flat EQ setting.
Anyways, I’d prefer the 1 12" sub in a small sealed box route due to minimal weight gains, maximized trunk space, and good quality. The quality and deepness of the bass, would be the greatest concern to me in my system, but occasionally I would like to turn it up a bit, especially with friends in the car…errrrrm friend (I forgot, 240’s are basically 2 seaters lol)
As for the budget, considering the 240 I’m in the process of purchasing already has an Alpine headunit, I’d need 4 speakers with custom mounts, an amp, a 12" sub, wiring and a sub enclosure. I hope I can get a decent used set of all I mentioned for about 500ish bucks, but later into the future because I still need to get that damn 240 to pass emissions before I can buy it. The NOx readings are too high, even after replacing teh cat and O2 sensor… and the EGR system seems to be clogged even after they got the EGR valve to function (prob why its failing repeatedly)!!! Any tips or suggestions?
Thanks for your responses, I hope to see more pics, especially with the door panels removed, showing the mounts and the type of speakers used.
update: I bought a pair of 6.25-6.75" (variable) speakers from walmart. Seemed like a good deal for $87 plus tax. They’ve got a kevlar cone, removable dome tweeter, built in crossover. They’re 100wRMS apparently.
The problem is that once I opened the package, I realized that the crossover is behind the magnet, and they’re mounting depth is very high. I’d say almost 3"…I’m pretty sure they won’t clear my power windows if I buy that pvc adapter from eBay.
What should I do? Can someone give me a measurement for max mounting depth? It’d really help. I’m going crazy reading 5 year old threads with mostly text and variable answers on several forums.
Thanks
one 12 is good for me and easy to get out for drift free weekends
best $20 i ever spent
Alright, I will purchase the front 6.5" adapters off of eBay then. I’ve done plenty of research on them and they seem to be a solid buy (no pun intended). I really hope these deep 6.5" speakers do not cause problems with the power windows when using the front adapters.
The rear adapters for the hatch, are supposedly a PITA to install, so I’ll avoid them as of now. (full rear interior removal, cutting required for deep speakers, zipties need to be used to avoid bolt hitting speaker etc…)
Also, what is a cost effective way to water seal the speakers? I saw someone plastic wrap it in a thread on NICO I believe…I wanna go the dynamat way, hopefully I can reduce some of the car’s rattles over bumps and the road noise on the highway.
The previous owner of this car got an Alpine mp3 deck installed, its pretty nice. In the hatch, I see RCA coaxial cables, and a few of those U plugs attached to wires. Does this mean he was running subs earlier and whether I can run them later down the road?
Thanks for your responses, I know I’m asking way too many questions in one post, but respond to whatever you have experience with or can help me out with.
I purchased 100W RMS Scosche HD Audio Kevlar 6.5" front components and the eBay 4x6-6.5" adapters and I’m currently waiting for shipping before I can install them.
I also just purchased the 150W RMS Scosche HD Audio Kevlar 6x9’s from Walmart, for the rear. I know they will not fit in the stock speaker mount, but I’m wondering if I can just drill some screws in the cardboard rear hatch cover thingy. I’ve read on a forum that people put 6x9’s in that hatch lid but I’ve never seen a pic. Is anyone else on SON running speakers mounted in an S13 hatch cover? (I’m using powerful 6x9’s to avoid the need of a sub…might cheapo amp’em later just for shits and giggles lol)
It’d really help if someone could post pics or give an idea of what to do, is bracing or structuring required for that thin piece? Is it necessary to make a speaker bracket to prevent flex? etc…
Thanks
Rob is right. I don’t know if anyone remembers my red hatch when I had just 1 sub in there. It definitely pounded and people were always amazed that it was only 1 sub after letting them hear it.
It’s not the quantity, it’s the quality.
So…any ideas on the 6x9’s on the hatch cardboard lid thingy? Pics would be AWESOME, thanks
In my old hatch, I had 6x9’s in the cover, but it didnt have that bass I was hoping for. It was even connected to an amplifier. Anyways I use a bazooka bass tube now.
I have had a little experance with the audio 
and I would say that Audio is very important if you are an audiofile. at the moment I am running in my nissan
MTX TXC6.1 components
Single MTX 7500 12"
TA7804 4ch
sometime simple is better for a real SQ setup. Here are some pics.Also I there is a pic of what a proper mounting plate looks like to put a 6.5" into a 4x6 hole. My batter is also in the trunk under the amp rack.
Alright since you don’t recommend 6x9’s in the rear hatch lid for moderate bass, and are speaking from experience, I guess I’ll return them. My cousin amped 100W RMS 6x9’s in his old Chrysler on the trunk deck lid, and the bass was amazing, considering there were no subs. I was hoping the same thing would work in a hatch, I guess not…
I’m gonna start looking for a combination deal with a small 10" or 12" sub in an enclosure with an amp. Thanks for the help guys.
Oh also…any idea still on the mounting depth for 6.5" at the front using the eBay PVC adapters? I saw on the speakerbox that 2.39" is the top mounting depth…feels like its more, but I hope they’ll fit.
I am not sure what depth you will actually have but I know my MTX are 2 3/13" deep and they fit no problem.
Benson, what are the external dimensions of that tweeter? I got rid of the Kickers that wouldn’t fit in my car, and now I’m looking for a set of components to drop in there.
ill have to find out, ill lot today,
what are you looking at spending? Those are not too cheap
Ill also look into the size of the tweets in my Legacy. they are a differant MTX component.