My dad was driving the car the whole day so it was running fine. I tried starting it an hour after he came home, it started then shook then stalled. The tach was shaking and it was below 500rpm, and the engine seemed to be struggling to stay alive.
Tried it again with the accelerator to the floor, same thing. It seems as if I have fuel and spark, because it will start, doesn’t need to crank long either, it starts right away but it stalls immediately, less than a second difference. I don’t have a timing light so I can’t check timing regardless.
I tried it with the battery boosted by another car, because I had low charge after the multiple starting attempts, no difference. I also tried with the MAF disconnected to rule that out, still same thing.
Any ideas guys? The fuses are fine for the fuel pump, its got a full tank of fuel, no loose vacuum hoses. I can’t hear my fuel pump prime, maybe it was because of external noise.
Stock KA24DE in an S13, I tried disconnecting the MAF, it did the same thing. It should be able to start without a MAF. I highly doubt that’s it. I’m going to get a fuel pressure gauge from Canadian Tire tomorrow, hopefully that will allow me to determine whether the fuel pressure is inadequate.
I went back out at night in the dead silence. Fuel pump does not prime. No “whirring” sound.
I hear 2 clicks from the fuse box relays and near the ABS solenoid every time the ignition is turned on. I took off the fuel cap, there was no hissing either. Now I need to figure out why the fuel pump is not being engaged. I shouldn’t have sold my Walbro w/ install kit 3 days ago. lol
Any ideas on how to proceed, as in checking out all the electrical stuff related to the fuel pump? I’m skimming through the FSM, hopefully I’ll find something.
I took out the whole fuel pump assembly, hotwired it with a 9v battery, and the fuel pump spins right up. I’m sanding the corrosion off of the top plate, and the low fuel light wire was detached due to the rusted terminal. The rest seems to have a very low impedance connection, but I’ll solder over it just to be sure.
I’m stumped at why I didn’t hear the fuel pump prime. I connected it back into the harness in the trunk, while everything was out, it primed. Wtf?
I’m going to replace it with the Walbro anyways, since I’d have to do it down the line. Thanks for the help guys, if I put it back in and the car doesn’t start, I’ll update this thread.
I sanded off all of the corrosion on the fuel sending unit’s cover, and then soldered in new connections and attached the walbro to it.
The problem now is that the screws for the cover of the fuel pump assembly (the one on the trunk floor), the heads for those screws decided to come clean off the rest of the screw. I tried to drill out the rest of the screw, but the drill bit went right through, and the cylindrical remains of the screw remains in the threads. I don’t know what to do now, buy a tapping kit and new screws?
I even broke a drill bit applying sideways pressure. lol
Does anybody have 6 of those tiny 8mm screws for the fuel sending unit? I’d like to replace mine too, the top of the screws is pretty rusty, but the bottom is CLEAN.
lol those things are a pain… one of mines got stuck too…try the tapping kit though…you can get those screws at ct…i just used machine screws did the job well
Just called up Agincourt Nissan, $3.26x6 for those 1 cm long bolts…special delayed order too sigh.
This Spaenaur place you speak of is in Kitchener according to google. Thanks for the suggestion though.
I bought some bolts of the same thread pitch for the sending unit cover, but they’re way too long, I’ll have to get them cut short. Home hardware apparently won’t do that…any suggestions?
I’ll also buy a tapping kit from Canadian Tire on the way. Damn Nissan for using crappy bolts and screws.
I spent like 2 hours hacksawing bolts holding them in a vice grip with the other hand. lol
There’s a sale btw on those Jobmate rotary tools. 10,000-35,000 rpm adjustable, and it comes with like 30 accessories and bits. (polishing pads, sanding pads etc…)
$14.99 at Canadian Tire!!! I bought one, and it took like 15 seconds to cut a bolt, now I feel like Tim Allen. grunt grunt grunt
I got it running again and retapped the threads. Booyah :).
I suck at soldering, one of the terminals popped off again, it’s the low fuel light one I believe. I’m a little hesitant, would it be safe to solder it back on while the sending unit is still screwed onto the gas tank? I’ll let it air out for a while so there’s no fuel vapors, and keep a fire extinguisher handy. I’m anal about having all the terminals attached. lol
I could also just use electrical tape, and tape it on top of the terminal.