My accord needs to be inspected this month. It has a CEL. I have tried many things to figure it out to no avail (http://nyspeed.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75279). I need to take it to a shop, but I feel like I would be walking in with a blank check because there is no specific labor hours attached to it, so they can charge whatever they want.
I have never had to pay to have work done as I always knew someone with a shop or worked at a shop, not so much the case anymore.
Whats the best way to negotiate price in this situation? it sucks because I just want them to tell me whats wrong, I can change any part that is necessary.
I cant drop the car off during the week because I have work and school all day every day. so Saturdays are best for me. There is a shop I can go to right by work if necessary during the week, but I need to have a strategy first.
Did any of the previous posters read the link he posted? If anybody bothered to read his other thread he posted that he has already had the car scanned.
Before I go throwing parts at this is there a way to test to see which one it is without a scan tool?
He wants a garage to tell him what’s wrong with his car. With a scan tool, I’m assuming.
Seriously just give me your fucking car and I’ll have it figured out by the end of the day. For free. I make friends with mechanics for a reason. Hahaha.
In the title he states P1457 is the dtc, which can be caused by a few different parts. That quote he is just asking if there is anyway to test those few suspect parts himself without a scanner. If you read the other thread completely it makes sense.
Just an fyi, a dtc is just a reference point to start a diagnosis. Real shops charge quite a bit to figure out a problem because it is an in depth process. To the op, I would for a local shop that has been in business for a while. Explain to the service mgr/mechanic that you know the code and you are just looking to get a diagnosis. Discuss a set price- most smaller mechanics will waive the diagnosis fee as long as it doesn’t take too long and you have them do the work.
^^^word, we do that. im not sure what code that is so im just throwing this out there, if its an evap code (which alot of them are) we smoke the system and it basically shows us what parts leaking/bad and we replace it. check us out, www.walczaksautoservice.com
I’ve got a scan tool but ofcourse you live 200 years from me. Autozone will scan it, if its not cloudy, night, almost night, possibly going to be night, windy, raining, possibly going to be raining ect.
when I said scan tool I was talking a Tech II or something. I need to be able to tell what components are assoicated with that code and to test them individually. I have tested the purge valve and the solenoid valve by giving them gave power and ground at the part and they both work.
That shop is in Rochester I used to work at but they are too busy to mess with this on a saturday.
To the people who understand, thanks. Ill go to a shop soon and see if I can haggle something…
Dawn, get your headlights fixed before you worry about my car. lol
And i dont think its an evap leak bc i had the smogger on the car for about a half hour. Granted, fog never came out of the gas tank as i was told it should, but there were no leaks in the engine bay or around the gas tank. I am not sure the fog ever made it back to the gas tank.