we are just using a paint and varnish remover spread over the car with paint brushes and a wire wheel on a drill and sometimes a hand scraper… very hard work but very impressive when done.
- You’re right, looks like its working well
- who the hell are you?
i am the secret weapon…muahahahaha…but the real question is who r U!
lol…ViZion is my bitch …he works on my car when I tell him too…lol
No really Boby is a newbi to the 240 scene and he hangs out at the shop to learn and while he is there I put him to work…he has been a huge help.
My roommate Jeff (AKA Dover) was also helping out this weekend.
we’re the only crew in the province that has groupies…
haha, awesome.
Maybe I can come check out the shop one day and help out for a bit if I have a spare day some weekend.
I’m a noob but I do what I’m told 
i can be your janitor/monkey helper just to learn more… 
Chris has been and will continue to be my hero…
holy crap man… jus’ givin’er eh…
powder coating any parts?..
i will agree i am the shop bitch but what better way to learn but from the evil genius himself. Well actually i dont think hes evil and i would seriously doubt hes a genius but he loves what he does and who can knock him for trying. This car is going to be a huge success and im just glad i can be of help even if it means hand scraping the bottom of a car…lol… i just cant wait to see the finished product that will be the best part of all. Bing, i wouldnt say im a groupie but am a huge fan…lol.
Nope, you are wrong, Chris is a genius…in my oppinion
Just a little update:
Bastard Child has pretty much just sat there over the weekend as I was working on another project that I have in the shop and has been in the mix for over a year now, however I did pick up a brake upgrade for BC.
I got a set of 4 piston brembo brake calipers and brembo pads for a total cost of >>>>…$0 THATS RIGHT FREEBY FREEEBY!!
They are slightly used but in very good shape and say in big white letters
VIPER on the side of them. Yes they are off of a viper snd they almost bolt up but not quite. I will try to get pics up.
If they look anything like these, you should have some serious stopping power.
Speak for yourself…
Chris, bringing it down to bare metal opens the chassis up to oxidization. I’m wondering why you didn’t just strip the areas where the welding would be done, prime the areas after welding to prevent corrosion, and then do a full strip of the car before paint and prime…
From personal experience it just makes things easier in the end because you dont have to prep the car twice once to get the paint off, and then once again before the repaint to get rid of any corrosion…
Yeah… cause Chris is doing it wrong… :roll:
Walter, those are the exact same calipers except black, pretty friggen sweet, I’d say. Talk about being at the right place at the right time.
because this way you find everything and anything even under the shitty undercoating nissan put on our cars.
plus when the new stuff goes on it will be a lot cleaner having even surfaces and there is like 142 seams or something that need to be welded. and that stuff isnt fun with fire.
Speak for yourself…
Chris, bringing it down to bare metal opens the chassis up to oxidization. I’m wondering why you didn’t just strip the areas where the welding would be done, prime the areas after welding to prevent corrosion, and then do a full strip of the car before paint and prime…
From personal experience it just makes things easier in the end because you dont have to prep the car twice once to get the paint off, and then once again before the repaint to get rid of any corrosion…[/quote]
You’re right about most of this Bob. However, what you fail to mention (and I’m assuming Chris knows this) is that in order to respray the car properly after all this stripping and work, he will require the use of either a sealing epoxy or an etching primer. Both of these products remove oxidization from the metal to which they adhere, and are semi-porous, allowing air and contaminants out of the coating, but not back in. He’ll then need to follow with a good sanding and wipe with precleaner, followed by several coats of a proper 2-part sealing primer. This will eliminate all traces of oxidization, imperfections and contaminants, and seal the chassis from future issues of this sort.
Car manufacturers (and I know you know this Bob) use a 2-part etching/sealing epoxy primer on bare chassis before paint; and you also know that they don’t get 100% coverage of the chassis when they do this. Chris will need to apply a similar product if he wishes to keep the car in the condition he’s putting it in, and the rotisserie should allow him to actually get more coverage of the chassis that even the manufacturer allows. If he does, he shouldn’t have to worry about such problems for a long time.
Chris, you have my respect on doing the job right and I look forward to seeing more of the same from you on this project. Keep it up!
Yes like Theo said those are the same calipers, anyone know where I can get Viper rotors?
I am not a pro body man or car resto man but I am pretty sure the chassis will be fine with the bare metal exposed. I have been to a few world class Restoration shops and in every one I have seen chassis that were bare matal and had been for longer then my chassis will be,
I have heard of a Doupont primer that is a sealer and etching primer in one. I have been told it is the best stuff on the market and is fairly expensive $200 a gallon I think they said. I will be looking into getting this stuff, I wish for this car to last as long as possible so I will use the best I can aford.
Ok, since you mention DuPont, I have a few products to recommend to you…
After you’ve completed the basic bodywork, welding, grinding, sanding, etc. You’re going to want to use something like this: http://www.performancecoatings.dupont.com/dpc/en/us/html/prodinfo/nason/491-30.pdf It’s a catalyzed etching/sealing primer to be used for the purpose you and i both mentioned above.
Follow that with your regular filling and finishing putties, then preparation sanding.
Then follow that with this on any externally visible body panels:
http://www.performancecoatings.dupont.com/dpc/en/us/html/prodinfo/nason/421-17_421-19.pdf It’s a catalyzed high-build primer surfacer. This is used to provide a good build for the base coat and smooth any imperfections in visible surfaces. You’d spray 2-3 coats of this on the car, then block sand it down till 1-1.5 coats worth remains on most of the car.
Follow that with any TopCoat and Clear combination in the Nason product line and you’ll have a coating that’s completely sealed and looks like water on glass.
Then proceed to smack the car into the track wall of your choice and repeat. I’m doing the same on my FC.
My dad used some of those paints you mentioned. He had his caddy stripped down to the steel. This is the final product, at Cadillac’s 100th anniversary in Dearborn a couple years ago where he won the Grand National prize for getting 98 points out of 100 (if anyone knows the importance of that).
And a nice pic I took before I had a real camera, you can get the jist of the quality of the job anyways…
[quote=“Theo23”]Yeah… cause Chris is doing it wrong… :roll: [quote]
I never said that, it was a legitimate question that I was looking for an answer for… relax…
And I got it and some…
Thanks for the explanation. I do know about the 2 part etching a sealing compound GM uses, as I co-oped there for a year or so. I was just under the impression that in order to adhere properly to the metal it required the car free of corrosion. I stand corrected. You are certainly right about manfacturers not getting full coverage, they’ll do anything to save time and a dollar.
I did know about the self etch and epoxy primers but again I figured the metal needed to be free of corrosion and contaminents.
Of course I dont have the experience that Marc does in a class act restoration place, and I’m appreciative of the response.
I guess I know who to go to when it comes to paint.
Thanks for the info.