so the last 2 days my clutch is been acting funny whenever i release it about halfway it gets stuck for about 1sec and then its hits the ball of my feet, any ideas clutch is brand new and it still pulls strong
Bleed it a lot on both bleeder screws the one on the loop and the slave cylinder. You could also just get a line that goes from your clutch master cylinder to the slave it cuts out the loop.
Yup, clutch lines need to be bled.
Remove the damper while you’re at it. That damper doesn’t do shit, just traps a lot of air in the bleed process and makes the clutch feel spongy.
It takes like 10 minutes to do (depending on how siezed up your hardline connectors are). I think it’s worth it though. Bleeding takes like 5 pumps without the damper in place.
well yesterday i noticed that my fluid levels were low, i got some wd40 and sprayed the rod and refilled the reservoir as well.
Oddly enough is driveable enough to get to work but if i defenetly feel like the lines need to be bleed as it engages with no problem is just that i have to put my foot all the way to the ground and since i refilled it is starting to come back on its own more frequently, i searched on 240sxforum and found nothing on it but on nico found how to remove the damper from what i can tell as he called it different.
Does anyone have a write up for bleeding the lines for it, i would appreaciate that large. im at work now and going to try to fix it when i get home.
here is the link for what i found on nico
http://www.zeroyon.com/index/content/view/32/47
does anyone know wat kinda line needs to b made up to eliminate the damper? and were do i get one?
To bleed…
-fill up the resevoir
-attach 1/4" tube to nipple
-open the bleed nipple on the slave
-push down pedal slowly
-when pedal is DOWN, CLOSE the nipple
-bring pedal up
-push down pedal slowly
-when pedal is DOWN, CLOSE the nipple
-bring pedal up
-push down pedal slowly
-when pedal is DOWN, CLOSE the nipple
-bring pedal up
-check fluid level (make sure you are not empty because you are going to be sucking up air and you will need to start again)
You need to repeat this probably twice to get the air out of the lines.
Two points to keep in mind:
-4-5 pumps cleans out the resevoir so be sure to check it.
-DO NOT lift the pedal up when the nipple is open or you will be sucking up air up the other end.
I STRONGLY suggest you remove the damper because you will not be able to bleed it without a power bleeder. In fact, all Nissan techs to my knowledge are told to remove the damper when a bleed is required.
To the other guy, you can guy a Taka motorsports braided ss line that goes from the master down to the slave.
You don’t need to though because you bend the hardline coming from the master and connect it to the bracket which feeds the rubber line to the slave. Take your time and dont force it because you don’t want to kink it or break it.
This is step by step with pictures instructions on how to remove the damper
thanks guys, just to give you an update its one of the lines that had a tiny whole on it so the lines will need to be replaced waiting till next saturday which is when i have a day off.
After i filled the reservoir and drove it around the block a couple of times, clutch came back to normal operation. Im guessing because of the small hole on the lines the clutch got bleed by itself… is the new feature on nissan’s little japanese guy comes in and fixes your problems while driving hehehh
This weekend im going to remove the damper box and replace the lines, doesnt look complicated so im going to give it a try.
turn the rod clock wisse till the feel of the feddle doesnt have a gap . It sounds like your master is just too loose. I adjust EVERY master when I do any clutch.
well found out what it was, well i still dont know what it is, but i know where it is on the right side of the tranmission …since a pic has a thousands words
anyone has had this happen to them ? what was it ? cause it doesnt even holds brake fluid there no more grrrrr
Yep I have had this happen. Go replace it with a stainless line. If you are in a hurry, you can get a stainless one made at bosch hydraulics on the west end. Just bring in the old line, and they will make one to the exact same specs out of braided stainless.
You could also order one from taka motorsports.
Make sure to use teflon tape on each fitting.