couple issues with SR, please offer advice!

I know this is a long read, but please try to find the time to try and help me out. thanks.

I just picked up a new 180sx and i’m trying to get it running like a dream. I don’t have goals of high power right now, just the best milage and daily drivability i can get out of it. Has SR20det, intake and cat-back exhaust, automatic(for now) and 110,000KM’s.

When i first got it it drove like a dream for first 800km’s, very smooth power delivery and 30+MPG. Then it started over pressurizing the fuel tank and leaking a little fuel. As a temporary fix i tried another fuel cap and when that didn’t work i drilled a tiny hole in the cap to vent excess pressure.

Then over the next 1000KM’s the turbo came loose and blew the manifold to turbo gasket. I have it tightened up now but still leaks some exhaust. While doing this i removed the EGR valve and piping, and plugged the vacuum line.

Then it started leaking a little fuel from the line connecting the fuel filter, so I replaced the fuel filter and connecting lines. I also noticed some of the vacuum lines are a little dry and showing light cracking, so I plan on replacing those too.

Then i noticed a few tiny drops of oil coming out of the back end every once in awhile, and found the front of the diff where the driveshaft connects has some oil leaking out. Just a tiny bit, not a huge problem right now.

Now, since all these things have happened, I now have very slow spool up, low power until above 4000RPM, and my millage has been cut in half, i’m now getting only 16MPG. And I’m worried about what might surface next.

So what i’m looking for is recommendations.

-I have a turbo gasket kit with manifold, manifold-turbo, turbo-elbow, and both sides of intake, ordered and on the way.

-Want to replace all vacuum lines, but want to make sure i run them correctly, and not sure if they are correct now. They look like they have never been tampered with, but I found a website that says they are connected wrong. So which way is right? Will disconnecting the EGR and carbon canister effect my millage or anything?

-want to replace as many rubber fuel lines as i can just to be safe.

What do you think? anything else I should do? Any tips for what might help? I’m racking my brain trying to get this all figured out. It doesn’t seem like a leaking turbo gasket or removed EGR valve should have this much effect on my milage.

Thanks for reading, please help!!

the blown turbo to mani gasket will affect power and spool up for sure. when mine blew out i could only spool like 2 psi. i have noticed HUGE fuel savings by putting ATF in my gas tank every once and a while. i havent done it to my 180 but it works amazing in my sentra. the atf is a detergent and cleans and lubricates everyting up nicely. much better that fuel injector cleaner garbage. i got an extra 90 KMs out of a tank by putting half a litre of that in my tank. if you do try it on your 180 it will lower your octance rating by a couple points so be careful. sounds like you need to change some diff seals from the sounds of it too. oil leaking from the rear of the engine? by the bell housing? could be rear main, valve cover etc

so far haven’t noticed any oil leaks from rear of engine. thanks for the tips travis. I’ll be living in edmonton shortly, shall have to meet up and see each others cars.

any other help out there?

PLEASE!

this wont really help you but get some locking tabs for your turbo to manifold, its a know problem in sr’s, you can get some locking tabs a erickson nissan

As soon as I got my 180SX i changed all the rubber bits. Vaccuum lines and fuel lines were leaking. Also unscrewed PCV and blew the hell outta it with carb cleaner. Spray some in your throttle body while you’re at it. Also changed spark plugs to NGK Iridiums and checked all the grounds. The fuel filter should be changed out for a 300ZX TT one, as it flows better. Pay special attention to oil leaks. If your diff is leaking, find out from where and go buy a new seal and tap it in. Never done it myself but it shouldn’t take very long. The last thing you want is these small problems to get worse. If you take care of them, it’s all minor. Don’t worry, most of these cars I’m convinced have been sitting for a while in Japan before they get here, and their age isn’t kind to rubber bits. Lube up your doors, hinges etc. Just do the basics. It costs little and you will notice a huge difference. Oh, and you are most def going to need to sort out your manifold leak. Good luck! If you’re in Calgary anytime, PM me and we can hang out and trade tech tips :slight_smile:

I would highly suggest going with replacing all your vacuum lines, just take your time and keep them running the way they are, its possible that if they are cracked you have vacuum leaks which would throw off your mapping and would mess with fuel mileage. What is this website you have found? are you sure its accurate?
Definatly fix your manifold leak, just ask the dealership for a turbo gasket for the 300zx tt. that what i did and it was exactly the same. also invest in some new nuts and use red locktight with lock washers.
Check some of your intake tubing for cracks or leaks. if you need any of that stuff let me know i have a bunch of stock intake tubing i don’t need.
as for your fuel problem, maybe invest in a new fuel pressure regulator? see what happens. maybe there is some blockage in the return lines… are you leaking fuel into your intake? are you blowing Grey smoke?
Yes disconnecting your EGR will effect your mileage, but not by the amount that you are claiming… you gain HP my disconnecting it but you loose fuel mileage.
I would not disconnect your charcoal canister, mostly for the reason of what to do with the line venting your gas tank. you can’t block that line, and you don’t want it openly venting to your under hood.
If your Fuel system is overpressureizing, and you have already replaced the gas cap, maybe you want to check your emissions lines for blockage. Those lines get clogged with crap when the owners of the car overfill the gas tank; the gas starts to work its way into the charcoal canister and its lines causing problems.
If you do all this and still have problems, you might want to start checking checking your MAF, or O2 sensors.
Hope some of this helps.