Sureshot!
Read this and tell me how bad I am making my score…
I have 2 credit cards along with 3 store credit cards (A/E,express,Macys)
I rarley use my store cards, I only signed up because they promised like %30 off my first purchase…
I have two visas…one at $800 limit and the other at $500. The $800 limit started at $200 went to $500 and now is $800.
I probably have gone over my credit limit on each card about 5 times. I have the money, I just go on spending sprees and forget my limit.
I ALWAYS make my payments on time… with the exception of twice.(was out of town and forgot)
I also pay my cards off like 2-3 times a month…
EX: I’ll purchase $700 on the one card…pay it off… spend another $500 on it…pay it off, then spend another $600 and pay it off before the end of the month…
I do this because I order a lot of stuff online…and I NEVER carry cash…
Creditors are looking at your month to month balance, as long as your consitently chipping away at something theyre happy. Believe it or not if you payoff a CC down to a zero balance at each statement it shows a zero balance and really doesnt effect yer credit. if you bought something like worth $1000 and paid it off say $100 per month, that establishes credit, as if to say-hey this guy is responsible enough to make his month to month payments. As far as yer question i would guess renting would look better but im not sure how they’d find out about yer residency technicalities.
Dude, you don’t have much to worry about. You are making the minimum monthly payment consistently, and that’s all that matters. If you pulled up a credit report it’d say you were consistent with hardly any late payments ( the two you mentioned ). You are all good in the hood. :tup:
I will say this though, before you try and make a large purchase, get those CC’s down to 0. There is a thing called debt utilization, and it will effect your credit score! When you don’t have existing debt with any trade lines ( store / CC’s ) your utilization is extremely low and the score will go up, potentially netting you a better interest rate. HOWEVER, that doesn’t necessarily mean you need it to be 0 all the time, just make sure its 0 a few months before a major purchase! ( enough time to get your score to adjust )
I still recommend signing up with someone like myfico or truecredit ( what I use ) to keep an eye on things
Aparently there is a 600 dollar “medical” bill on my credit score from Jan. 2005… it hasnt stopped me from getting a loan and my credit score is over a 750… but i want it removed, because its obviously a mistake and i have had insurance since i was born. Is there a number I call? which one of the companies should i go through to get this taken care of?
Aparently there is a 600 dollar “medical” bill on my credit score from Jan. 2005… it hasnt stopped me from getting a loan and my credit score is over a 750… but i want it removed, because its obviously a mistake and i have had insurance since i was born. Is there a number I call? which one of the companies should i go through to get this taken care of?
thanks
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willy you have to get a hold of the people who put it on there, the collection agency or the place the bill is from. The hard part is finding out who that is. the companies won’t take it off, they just report that it exists. let me know if you need help, i’ve seen this a million times
Ill just have the credit union pull my old report from before and try to figure out where it came from. it says “medical expense … ~600 bucks” thats all they give me… and the only reason i know i exists is because I had a background check run on me for the new job and they uncovered it for me. kind of embarrassing, even though its a mistake
I just checked my experian its a 765, I am not really worried about anything outstanding but should I still check the other 2?
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Experian commonly has the “mid-range” score of the three. Transunion is frequently the highest ( and regrettably most rarely pulled ) and Experian consistently has the lowest amount.
That being said the three should be reporting the same data, and the scores should be similar. It never hurts to use a product like myfico or truecredit to monitor all your scores, your report, trending and who is pulling your info… but in your case it should just be like a semi annually trip to the dentist, just a precautionary check-up.
Ill just have the credit union pull my old report from before and try to figure out where it came from. it says “medical expense … ~600 bucks” thats all they give me… and the only reason i know i exists is because I had a background check run on me for the new job and they uncovered it for me. kind of embarrassing, even though its a mistake
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You should definitely pull a detailed credit report from at least one of the three agencies. Your future employer should provide you with details surrounding the credit check, such as what company they used, etc, and you can just pull that one. It’ll state much more specific details regarding the disputed item… and in the extremely rare case that it doesn’t have details, you could have it removed very easily.
Once you have the information from the credit report, you’ll know who to contact regarding the error. First try to dispute the account with the CRA ( transunion / experian / equifax ) with the CRA’s online dispute system. Usually you can get a reply within a week or two. When you do this the CRA ( credit reporting agency ) is required to investigate the account’s validity, at which point it might even be removed and you wouldn’t have to worry about it ever agian. If they verify it as valid, you’ll have to fight with the collection agency / doctors to try and have it removed. If it gets to that point, you can come back here and I’ll point you in the right direction.
First thing though, find out what CRA your employer used, buy your detailed credit report from that CRA ( usually around $10. ) Then dispute the account online… then let us know how it goes.
Once in a while disputing as “not mine” will work but if not then do a 1-2 punch. Once you find out who the CA (collection agency) is and what CRA (ex, tu, eq) are reporting send a DV (debt validation letter) to the CA, then send one to the each of the CRA’s that are reporting. Make sure you send them certified mail return receipt for proof.
The chart isn’t loading for me ( must be blocked at work ) however I believe you are referencing a popular chart that was made before the fair credit reporting act was passed in 2003/4. While the 1-2 punch is a very popular technique, it’s effectiveness has regrettably dwindled. Especially since it sounds as though he recently pulled his credit report through “freecreditreport.com” which unfortunately allots the CRA’s 45 days to validate instead of the normal 30 days. Additionally CRA’s and CA’s have been validating regardless of regulation and unfortunately the only way to fight this is by going to court.
Disputing online BEFORE getting into the hardcore CMRRR style of fighting is very highly recommended. DV letters and other CMRRR letters are unfortunately getting flagged as copycat spam since the public is becoming more and more educated about credit repair. Lazy people just C+P prewritten letters and expect results… it’s a long hard road that sometimes can be avoided ( and should be if possible )
Furthermore he’d dispute as “not his” considering he said it’s “not his.” haha.
I thought the 45day validation was only if you got a free report threw www.annualcreditreport.com since www.freecreditreport.com is threw experian and is technicaly a paid service since you have to enroll in triple advantage. But I could be wrong
As fair as the whole 1-2 punch it has worked for me and many others on the credit board. CMRR letters are a great way to create a paper trail if you have to go to court. As far as “copy cat” only the technique is, a person should write their own letter instead of copying. Its basically just DV’ing both parties. Here is the chart, it was posted in 2005 and is still used today- http://images5.theimagehosting.com/12Punch.jpg
I have had good luck with both online and letter disputes. Online is obviously easier, letter will create paper trial that could be in the consumers favor.
I’m absolutely NOT saying that doing things CMRRR is the wrong way to do things. If disputing online doesn’t work, IT IS the best, for sure. It’s just a lot longer of a road, and a much more difficult one at that. lol.
The 1-2 punch has worked for me also, and I’ve almost always used CMRRR, it’s just becoming less and less effective for various reasons. You know you can only legally use the 1-2 punch during the first month ( i believe ) after a baddie has occured on your report, or gone to collections, right? After that it won’t hold up in court if the opposing attorney has done any homework whatsoever.
That being said… it still works! but there are other ways of doing things, some more creative and involved, others more strict and brief. It just sucks going into court not being “sure” that your evidence will hold up. A lot of credit repair is finding when the CA’s have done things illegally, but on the flipside, not everyone takes an ethical approach at doing it.
Oh well, I’m sure collectively we can help anyone on the board that needs it
You are right, you only have like 30 days to respond from the first time the CA makes contact with you. I am by no means an expert in this field, just have a little experience from things I have done and tons of reading.
Willybean check www.creditboards.com they have a whole section on medical billing and medical collections in the forum. They will be able to help point you in the right direction.
You are right, you only have like 30 days to respond from the first time the CA makes contact with you. I am by no means an expert in this field, just have a little experience from things I have done and tons of reading.
Willybean check www.creditboards.com they have a whole section on medical billing and medical collections in the forum. They will be able to help point you in the right direction.
kind of embarrassing, even though its a mistake
kind of embarrassing, even though its a mistake
