It’s a bad idea for YOU to do a DIY FMIC. I can tell this because you are asking questions that shouldn’t be asked.
When I turboed my Maxima, I had never even seen a turbo before i started the project. But i never made an internet post trying to get someone to hold my hand through it. Read a book, study some shop manuals. IDK. Figure it out yourself.
That’s what I said in the first post. It would need to be welded on… how hard is that to get accomplished?
I haven’t had the need to get things welded, so I don’t know if there are tons of shops that do it. It is something that I need to know if/when I do the project though.
And making a post on NYSpeed is a great way to get information. I remember a time when I’d get tons of answers from knowledgeable people.
Or, did this forum turn into a “I’m gonna post my opinion about everything, making off-topic comments everywhere. Look at me, I’m so popular” place?
Too late. To me, you’ve been acting like one the whole time.
Don’t force your ideas or opinions on people. Don’t tell people something without backing it up. Don’t act like a know-it-all either.
Those three things have all made you look like an idiot. Maybe not to everyone who knows you, but at least one person said “what the fuck? who is this idiot?”
Don’t be egocentric or act like you’re top shit either. If you have answers, I’d love to hear them. If you have suggestions with merit, toss the information my way with some integrity. Don’t just tell me I’m an idiot. You don’t know who I am either.
I can’t help it that i’m almost always right. Just listen to what i say. I guarantee that if carnut was here with me now, he would advise you the same fucking thing. And he knows his shit. It’s easy to pick out the people who are going to fuck up their car with a wrench. I’ve met a ton of them. Buy a civic if you want to wreck it with cheap go-fast parts.
I didn’t mess up either of my previous cars that I modified, because I took my time to research what I had… learned what I didn’t know, and did things the correct way.
In my questions, I will find out why it is or isn’t a good idea to save cash and do a DIY FMIC.
There is always a risk that the piping will slip loose and I’ll fuck shit up. Lots of connections = potential danger. Just like buying ebay parts may be a bad idea just because of build quality… or the project could take a very long time because I run into an issue of “Oh crap, I didn’t think of that…” happening.
I don’t need anyone to hold my hand. I am just looking to pick brains of people who have done it, and perhaps have some easy suggestions.
If you turbo’d your maxima, did you do a DIY FMIC? How did it go? Did you break your car, hence you’re demanding that it is a bad idea? What happened?
Holy shit i member the turbo maxima didnt know that was you Newman… haha thats was what about 5-6 yrs ago…
And im sure any fmic setup wouldnt be any worse than that shitty mazda tmic… But just buy a decent setup so what if its $800 you can always sell it down teh road for $500-600, what are you gonna get for some shitty ebay piece that will rust before spring?
I can +1 the information about pressure drop and the benefits the new IC system (as long as it is set up correctly) will give you, as those pressure drop numbers are similar to my stock FMIC. The stock intercooler DOES have a pressure drop, and a new IC will negate at least half of it, resulting in more power and a tiny bit better spool time.
Yes, the BOV needs a flange. Go to any aftermarket parts website and search for ‘flange’, you’ll find a few made specifically for HKS/Greddy/knockoff BOVs.
Ebay intercoolers, while are a bit better than stock, will not give you as much power as a more expensive item as say, from ETS or HKS or whatever. You get what you pay for, in essence…but you’ve got to pay a LOT more for a lot better build quality, and a little bit better performance.
Piping is straightforward, hard to mess up. BOV goes between the IC and the intake plenum somewhere. Flange must be welded on, no ghetto fabs. Assuming its recirculated (mine is), recirculate it, it’ll mess up your AFRs if you don’t.
Last thing: take your time. The intercooler kits you can buy specifically for your car usually make use of mounting points designated by the intercooler manufacturer. If you buy an intercooler and DIY, you have to find your own mounting points, and hope to hell you can get everything to fit well. Also, use good couplers, no cheap Home Depot plumbing couplers. Silicone couplers/t-bolt clamp it. Boost leaks are a HORRIBLE thing to find and fix, and they’re the most annoying thing to deal with.
Silicone couplers are what I was planning on using, as well as bead rolled edges of the piping so they don’t just fall off randomly due to vibration or some other factor.
I’d love to buy a $1000 intercooler… but, as you said, the slight increase in performance may not really be worth it for four times the cost.
I’m going to re-use the stock BOV, and the flange for it matched that of an HKS unit. I’m sure I can find one. Getting it welded on, any recommendations of places to go? Cost estimate?
There are a few people on mazda6club that have done their own. I’m sure I can ask them about what mounting points they found, and also… I’ll pop my bumper off and take a look! I’m just information gathering right now…
thanks for the straight forward response. I appreciate it.
FYI, i had never done any fab work until i tore into my tib… .but thats me…
I could probably do it for you, but it wouldnt be worth my time to get into that project for less then 200-250 for labor to go about doing U bends and Pie cuts to get a clean leak free FMIC
while i can see both sides of this arguement, newman and others do have a point you look like your just copy/pasting things that random people online said…i mean in the same post you said “he stock TMIC has a 3PSI loss. For non-techs, that means if my turbo is putting out 18PSI, my engine only sees 15PSI.” followed by “How about the Blow Off Valve? Wouldnt a flange of some sort have to be welded to the aluminum piping? Hard to get completed?”
A good rule of thumb with parts is you get what you pay for… if a fmic, which has MORE piping than a tmic, is ~$400 cheaper, theres a reason. something isn’t adding up right
Bead roll the pipes, thats right…I forgot about that, my bad.
As for places that would do the welding/bead rolling, if you have a local machine shop, go there…or call up a Sears garage or Midas or something, and ask if they know anybody local. Or ask your friends, if they are good welders.
And np, I try to help where I can
Adicted is correct about the price difference…just be very thorough in your decision (which is what your doing anyways).
The only problem with a downpipe would be installation. I don’t have the tools to do it, and I don’t really know anyone on here that could help me and not be pissed about crawling under the car to do it. LOL