When in reverse or drive, only the drivers side wheel spins.
Passenger side wheel will not turn in gear.
Passenger side axle & boot look brand new. Drivers side boot is torn, drivers side axle looks to have normal wear and tear.
With the car on jackstands, the car will continue to increase RPM’s by itself until it reaches about 30mph on the speedometer, then begins to make a grinding noise, which is when I shut the car off.
Ding, winner. Usually will happen if one side has slightly more drag than the other. Usually will happen on most any car that isn’t equipped with a LSD. Would be considered normal in this case.
Grinding noise im guessing is the wheel bearing, or where the half shaft goes in the bearing. Had that happen on my bonnie. would only grind at higher speeds when the bearing couldnt keep up anymore. needed a new bearing and half shaft.
On the jackstands bit. Is the car surging ever, the engine. Check the MAF EGR and O2 sensor. Will cause the car to run really rich in idle and only way it corrects is by accelerating. My Tempo would do it in drive on the road. Seems you MAY have a similar issue
I haven’t even tried driving the car yet. I just replaced the transmission line and decided to check the operation of the transmission while on jack stands.
The grinding noise didn’t sound like a wheel bearing IMO. It sounded much more like metal in a blender. My wheel bearing experience so far, they’ve sounded more like mud tires on asphalt. As far as where it came from, it’s hard to pinpoint the origin of the noise due to a loud exhaust which has yet to be fixed, and ambient noise in general.
My original thought was it was coming from somewhere inside or near the transfer case.
The car doesn’t surge in idle at all, in park it holds a steady idle at about 1500 when cold.
I’m fairly sure this is a combination of 2 or more problems though. Grinding noise at about 30mph, and the car increasing speed by itself when in gear.
My car ran beautifully in park, once you put it in drive all hell broke loose.
You need to drive it to diagnose it if its not any of the things mentioned here.
Also since when did probes have transfer cases? I dont recall and AWD probes. and if you meant the diff, it would grind all the time.
Try having it run and turn the wheels and see if the noise becomes more prominant anywhere, make sure the wheels or one wheel is spinning, will let you know if its a half shaft, or bearing, it should get worse one way or another, but you usually test that driving not with it jackstands so that test may be worthless.
Not really a good idea to test this on jack stands. Do it on the ground. It is normal for only one wheel to spin on a non-lsd car, but you might actually do damage spinning one at 30mph and letting the other on stand free. If it is the wheel bearing and it causes enough resistance, at 30mph the drive wheel power is going to shift to the wheel that is easier to spin and you could possibly blow a diff pin. So test your ideas on the ground and then come back with more info.
I tested the car on the ground. It runs, and drives as any I4 should. It doesn’t pull to one side under mild acceleration, and it seems to have decent acceleration. The pads are fine, but the Calipers are shot, so I couldn’t safely thoroughly test the drivetrain, so the calipers will be replaced this weekend, and I’ll give it another shot.
:tup: