Sup guys?
any help would be appreciated.
I took my car to Midas before i went to do my emissions test. I’m accustomed to pulling up the e-brake even though i drive an auto now. I received my car back and the ebrake light refuses to go off… in addition to that I have no brake pressure in the car and made it home solely on using the ebrake and good timing…
do you guys have idea what the problem could be before i go back to Midas and tear them a new @$$h0Le.
you don’t have any brake fluid in your lines or resevoir. The light comes on to let you know the reservoir is empty.
What were they doing to your car?
go back to Midas and tell dem to fix da car!! or else
you have already left midas…BIG mistake. i’m sorry to say but your odds of getting them to fix anything are slim to none.
of course one of the techs admits to breaking something on your car…
Best of luck.
I was getting the resonator welded cause it cracked.
It drove fine when i was leaving but this morning i went out to move the car and the brakes were dead…
would driving with the ebrake up cause this?
I’ll be sure to check the fluid level.
check for any leaks, reservoir level, and your brake lines…
good luck man.
How many km’s on the car?
I know my first car did this (luckily I was just going around my block).
I topped up my BMC then a few days later, the light would come back.
Check to see if your BMC is leaking, or if any of the fittings going to it are also leaking.
i highly doubt that driving with the e brake would do such a thing… maybe welding with a scorching hot beed of metal to close to a brake like might cause that… but then again your brake lines run on the other side of the car ( givin its a 240 ) …
what i say is that its -20 + outside and possibly the rubber seals on your master cylinder just naturally cracked due to extreme cold… ( assuming its not a new master cylinder. )
yeah, probably not related. Brakes fail, thats life.
take it to a reputable shop and get her checked out properly.
/end
Ok first of all it is possible that they are related. It depends on how long he drove the car with the brake on. I have seen customers mainly women for some reason, who drive with the parking brake on for so long that it actually wears the pads or shoes down so much that it is metal on metal.
it depends on how low your pads were already, if the fronts have 40% remaining and the rears now have 40% remaing then there is nothing wrong and its absolutely normal, because now that there is less brake material the calipers have to move farther to do the same job and the brake fluid in the master gets displaced more. the next thing that could have happened is that if you havent flushed your brakes in more than a year they could be saturated with water because water slowly gets into your brake system over time through the flex hoses because the materials they are made out of are slightly porous. Not doing brake fluid flushes is also the number one reason for corrosion in the system and for component failure. So basically what happens is since the brake is on while you are driving it creates excess heat and turns the water in the fluid into steam creating an air pocket and makeing you have a really cruddy feeling pedal.
Its not recommended to top up your brake fluid because it is an indicator it only goes down when there is something wrong or worn parts.
My suggestion is if you are mechanically inclined, jack it up pull off the tires, pull off the calipers and make sure that the friction material looks good and that the slider pins float freely. check the caliper seals make sure they arent leaking and that the pistons retract relatively easily. replace parts as needed. Check the flex hoses for cracks. Next re-assemble the calipers apply the e-brake check the rear to make sure it applied and when you release the e-brake that it isnt hanging up or you might have a cable problem.
Finally top it up and bleed the brakes making sure that there isnt air in the system if the brakes wont bleed (air keeps on coming out) or if you find that fluid is leaking somewhere else then find the leak. look for wet spot on line where fluid is leaking. then curse and swear for a while because you most likely have a rear brake line leaking and its a pain in the ass to replace. If you have no leaks and you still get a crappy pedal crack the lines at the master (loosen the fittings) and make sure you have pressure coming out. If you don’t have pressure then it needs a master cylinder.
If you have pressure at this point, fire up the car, press on the brakes hard and keep your foot on it. If the pedal starts to fade to the floor do it a couple of times then shut off the car and see if you can find fluid on the ground, then curse and swear because you didn’t see it was leaking from up above the gastank before you started the car. you can also do this step before checking the master because sometimes the lines on the master are hard to get off.
If you are confused or aren’t sure what you are doing, I highly reccomend taking your car to a tech-net approved or caa approved shop. If your in the burlington area I could do it at my shop, if you would like directions PM me or if you want directions to the nearest tech-net shop (I know the owners of most of them in halton, mississauga and some in toronto.) Just give me a PM. because the brakes are something that I suggest doing properly because I dont want to see anyone getting hurt just to save a dollar.
Guys thanks so much for the insight i’m gonna take it to have the brakes done and i’ll be asking about everything you guys have mentioned… thanks