ok heres the deal, on the mkII TDI i only have a radiator and no fan hooked up (never overheats), its there and its some sort of aftermarket fan. i wanna get the fan running on a on off switch cause i plan on making a long trek with this car in a couple weeks (durrtyy jerz). anyways the fan is right infront of the radiator if your looking right down into the bay its fan then the radiator then the motor.
now here’s my question, is the fan suppose to pull the air in from outside of the car or is it suppose to pull the air out of the engine bay?
thanks, i feel like a re-re askin this but w/e :confused
advanced auto sells them right in stock just measure to see what fits and as far as the pusher puller set up its better to pull cool air in if ya dont have room push it in all the same though
yeah i agree, puller ftw. spal, and others make some nice fans that are quiet and efficient. i have electric fans on both of my cars. you could either tap the thermoswitch, or add a toggle to override it.
He already has the fan in front of the radiator and just wants to hook it up in it’s current position. Being in front, it needs to push air in. If he moves it behind the radiator then it needs to pull air. Just that simple.
Unless there is a complete shroud around the radiator airflow direction makes no different in cooling capacity(push or pull) If there IS a ducted shroud, then pulling the air through the radiator makes for more flow over more of the core surface due to airflow dynamics and accelerated airflow movement.
also something to chew on…shrouds not only allow for more core coverage in airflow, but fan shrouds behind the core(in the engine compartment, pull type fan setup) will slow air down over the core at elevated speeds resulting in more heat exchange per volume of air than no shroud. Faster moving air absorbs less heat per volume than slower air…
Little for you guys to be concerned with though as it’s all based on a host a variables for the engine heat produced, front aerodynamics(inlet, discharge, vortex, etc), and cooling capacity of the radiator to determine these things. Technical stuff best left to dedicated race cars…where you’re trying to build the absolute smallest cooling system possible that will support the drive train under all racing conditions and yield the lowest complete system weight possible…something you street guy need not worry about and the reason why you stuff oversized aftermarket radiators and fans in to keep cool ;D
but yea back to topic at hand…keeping fan where it is push the air in…sorry for going off track :tong
M3 track cars with 35lb aluminum radiators(no joke!) need not apply. Although if we were going by weight alone your current core seems it could cool a pair of blown S52’s!!!
All S/M 40-50 series variants w/ iron block use same spec…(new bolts, never reuse)chase block threads with oiled tap to clean, brake cleaner and blow dry, lightly oil bolt threads and washer faces w/ 30wt, seat @ 30nm torque in sequence, yield 90 degrees in sequence, yield additional 90 degrees in sequence(180 total, but NOT at once).
Nice, same as what I’ve been seeing lately, not going by that sequence is probably why so many boosted bimmers have hg issues with cometic and other mls gaskets.