yeah why did it fail in the first place? Was it becasue of the 3 different dia R-Comps he ran at edinburg that people argued with me wouldnt be an issue. :ahh Or is it lack of oiling?
becasue spidergears have been in diffs since the 30’s… I would think in 90+ years of differental developement a major company buiilding highperformance cars miiiight have designed a piece that doesnt need some cob jobbed oil scoops on the case to keep them intact.
Thats a stock dif, but the spider pins were tigged into the housing, and the oil passages have some booger oil scoop to direct oil into the spiders/center. (hello added parasitic losses :rofl)
This. Dont need collision but you need the bare min.
The Scoops have been used in all the rebuilds Jack has done. Shep mentioned doing the same thing.
Mike, when the gears spin fast, they spit the oil back out through the holes. These center diffs fail under normal driving conditions (turning right at a stop sign, etc.) that cause large differences between front and rear wheel speeds.
For the record, I’m realllllllllllllllly sick of hearing about the Rcomp sizes. The traction control lights were on two days PRIOR to autocross. When I had the car aligned they popped on. Not sure what the alignment had to do with anything but it might have revealed the already existing problem. The mayhem in that transmission case was caused over time, not in 1.5 miles at Edinburg. 100s of miles were put on this diff. All four pins sheared off, causing all four dowels to back out and spin out against the inside of the case, wearing it down 0.003"in the channel.
If you wanna come check it out, Mike, and tell me your thoughts on all the work, I’m all ears. You know where I reside. If you see the white saturn, just pop in
I was really just busting your balls man, I am sure you know that anywhoo… As for swinging over. I dont have but a single night with my wife every week in the middle of getting up at 7 working day job, then shop and going home at 11-1:30-2amm, wash and repeat… so no offense but I cant really swing over to shoot the shit with ya!
So what does the dealership do when these things let go in an UNMODIFIED car? becasue if the units are so shitty that every car has this issue, its gotta be on the brink of recall or it should be. Also why were the traction control lights on anyway?
I dont know what to tell ya man, its a case of live and learn I guess. If that diff was an issue from the day it left the lot, you should have known about it an prepaired for it, especially when modding the car and tracking it. What a seriously shitty design. I mean you can beat the snot out of a 10 year old WRX all day long with over 150Kmi on the clock and these things cant last 10Kmi? Count me out of ever buying one!
So if you dont think the R comps are the issue, are you still going to run them? or are you going to sell them and get a proper set? While they might not have been the direct cause, its just one more variable in the equation man, thats all I have been saying dude. Its an active diff, so its working when ever the cars moving… adding to that strain just isnt smart, no matter how little or how much.
-Thats cool I know all about being busy
-The have been two warranty cases I found, both were modified cars. I brought that to the attention of Mitsu Corporate and the local rep and they completely ignored it. So I guess its like a clutch. Good Effin Luck. Mitsu upgraded the pins in 2011 though…
-Traction lights were on because this thing was going schizo. it was moving in place and causing the “dizzying array of sensors” (quoting Tanner Faust) to get faulty readings so they shut down the whole Stability Control System.
-I tell people not to buy an X unless they plan on beefing up the drivetrain right off the rip.
-The Rcomps will be used for one weekend at Edinburg. I want to see how much of a difference they really make. At which point I will try to justify spending $1k on tires that will sit 99% of the year lol
Once I drive this for a bit and get comfortable with it again (cuz quite frankly, I’m scared shitless, but that will pass after time) I plan to get injectors, bigger FMIC and a tune then I’m done with power mods. That should put me around 330awhp, mid to low 12’s. Good enough.
Many people (including myself) have got tied up with a car that they can barely afford the payments on, so it sits forever when it breaks. My advise is to get out of it ASAP. I’m sure you won’t agree now, but you would in 15 years.
As i look at my jetta sit on the trailer next to my shop. :banghead
Dumbest thing i ever invested into! Good thing it has only a hand full of payments left and my punch to the sack everyday looking at it unfinished will be over.
Live and learn. But the gods honest truth is exactly what Travis said and I said above. Unless you can afford to pay 3X the monthly payments consistently, IF YOU WANTED TO, modding a BANK OWNED car is the absolute dumbest thing you can do for your future. Why 3 times the payments? becasue with the depreciation rate on a STOCK car will put you upside down in a year so deep you are hosed if you want to sell it or trade it in. unless you stripped it back to stock, and planed out a year in advance then started making 3X payments, you wont have a shot at getting a wash on the sale/trade (on a not much down, 60+ mo car loan)
Not to mention, the hobby gets MUCH more rewarding when you take a paid in full car, no matter how cheap or expensive and building and BREAKING it at will. Not sweating it, worrying about payments each month, worrying about the BANK coming to your house asking to see the car, etc.
Do what you will. Respectable people will say “that was a smart move” if you were to get rid of it and move on. Fuck the children that say “HAHA you couldnt afford it, you chode… HAHA”… their opinion is worth less than dirt. We all make mistakes, the men in the group stand up for themselves and accept it, then move on.
WIth what TT and KKK said… and I am not at all being a dick trying to say this Ern.
I would have a hard time making payments on your car and im betting I make a bit more then you do if your still working at napa like I belive you were IIRC… Not saying that in a dick way, you work and work hard for what you want, but it may not make sense to keep the car.
I can afford regular maintenance. But $2k in July for the clutch wiped me out so when the diff went I was broke lol
I make pretty decent money for being a parts salesman…
And I can’t just sell the car. I owe too much vs. what I can get for it. Or else I would get out of this pig :\
So I’ll just own it and drive it alot less. I have the Saturn now to put miles on so the car will retain some value. I want a new one. A fully loaded GSR with leather, moonroof, bluetooth, Aero kit and NAV. Phantom black so I can change the black to a better black without painting the jambs and bay. I’ll swap all my parts over.
Get it SOLID and just enjoy the car for what it is.
As you know, its a never ending loop of must haves. You can dump 50K into the car and get your socks blown off on the highway, drag drip, autox, ice, drift, road track… by some guy in a XXX car then your are back to the drawing boards with yours. Every step away from stock is 2 steps back when it comes to reliability, longitivity and resale, unless you go WAY into things (see the 50K part), then the climb out of the hole of fail starts to get more towards the reliable, run it every day, decent resale (to a particular buyer).
Ask Cossey how thats going with the 997. Thats a perfect example of my above theory.
Put gas in it, enjoy it for what it is and take care of it.
Not really. I never went to any drawing board, had any particular goal or any of that. I just wanted a fun car. Has nothing to do w/ reliability for me. Plus there’s a difference between affording to be doing all of this shit, and having to set money aside for things and save up for when they break. If Ern had a bigger bank account and all of his other needs in life were met, I’d tell him to do whatever the hell he wants with his money.
I meant it more like the Stock car = reliable, good resale. to modded for more power = goes boom, not so good resale. to rebuilt right with proper hardware and choices = reliable again (inside realistic performance goals), and good resale again (to a p car enthusiast).
Don’t know you Ernie, but do whatever the fuck you want brother! Theres not one single fucking person on this site that I would take any kind of financial or even life advice from. Keep doing your own thing man, you only live once.