Way to pay attention. I havent turned the boost up on this car. Not once have I mentioned anything about what I did with my boost controller. The bolt ons have allowed more air in, more air out and better cfms. Therefore, the boost is spiking ON ITS OWN not because of what I’m telling it to do. Thus the need for a tune to tell the computer its okay for the boost to hit that. The stock fueling system can handle 28 psi safely. So 26 wont be an issue.
HOLY FUCK! When did I tell you you had to have it tuned? The first fuckin post I made? Your an effin moron! Once again dont listen to the guy thats had one for over 6 years, just do it on your own! :retardclap
Hey asshole…why would I tune a STOCK car knowing I was gonna modify it? That would have been a waste of money cuz guess what? After a DP & intake & UICP it would have needed another tune ANYWAYS, am I right? Yes I am. So why waste $300+?
Tuning it in stock trim would have benefitted me better fuel economy and a bit more power. But then I would have thrown all these parts at it and fucked up THAT tune. So why not screw up the factory tune instead of a tune that was going to cost me money? I said from the get-go that it was gonna get tuned but not until I put the few mods onto it. Waste of money not to.
Actually any modification done to the engine needs a “tune”. Keep in mind the billions spent on R&D to make the ecu(s) in cars now a days, let alone PERFORMANCE cars do a damn good job of tuning themselves, when SLIGHT (downpipe, intake and a charge pipe) are changed. Not many cars are factory tuned to the brink of failure, and dont have enough overhead left on the table to suffice for simple modifications.
Modify, Monitor, Adjust (manually or automatically), Monitor, Adjust, Monitor, Monitor, Monitor… Not modify, sit back and beat on it. Have you even pulled logs for specific perimeters on this car yet??? To even see if you are pissing in the right direction??? Or is it just google tuning?
google can tune now? damn. they canz do anyting.
Google and Ebay actually.
Search teh googlez, ebays the chineese knock off ODB2 cable, make teh tweaks on teh ecuz… MADHPZ!
Not only are you my dad, but you’re my professor too!
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I cant decide if I want to Brotune or Googletune my ride yo
Notune is the best tune. Just ask erngotti.
Speaking of wasting money. A DP is not a necessary mod unless you’re upgrading the turbo on the car. Intake is a waste since the stock air box with a high flow filter is good to 400 HP but you probably like the sound. UICP is a good investment but doesn’t really add any power just smooths the power delivery throughout the band.
It’s your money so whatever but I’m glad you’re finally getting a tune. GL
Intake: Yes I wanted the sound lol IMO its dumb to have a turbo and not be able to hear it unless you’re going stealth. I dont give a damn about stealth.
DP: Catless dp will add power on a bone stock evoX. Add intake & catback and get more power, with better turbo spool and earlier boost (i.e. slightly less lag when combined with intake and UICP)
UICP:The kid I bought it off told me he needed a tune (went the same route as me) after installing this. I didn’t realize he ACTUALLY meant “needed”…fml…but anyways, the car never overboosted prior to installing this and yesterday i put the stock rubber one back on and all the BS stopped. So even though it “delivers power better” it does so TOO well, allowing the turbo to work at its full potential, thus pissing off the ECU and annoying my foot.
You should of saved up and bought all the things you wanted to upgrade and do it at once, then tune right after.
You should shut your soulless ginger loving cunt mouth Steve
:rofl
That soulless ginger is pretty much scraping the bottom of life’s toilet right now :lol
So my christmas time herpes comment was more of a prediction then lawl
Yeah its a women getting ready to go out. They pick a shirt, dont like it with the pants, and change the pants. Then the shoes dont match, so they change them, then the shoes have sparklies that dont match the shirt, so they change the shirt, which now is sleeveless and needs a different bra, but the only one without straps is red, and its a white shirt, so the shirt changes again…
A lot like, exhaust , intake, tune, FMIC upgrade, tune, injectors and more boost, tune, cheaped out and got too small an exhaust so they change it again… Its one thing to not have the money up front, but it another thing to mindlessly change shit and not look ahead to make feasible decisions along the path to success.
And about changing the DP making or not making power, Errrrine did you dyno it prior and then after installation? Make a pass on the track, change it in the pits and make another pass? You have no way of telling… other then google searching.
You want real answers to what has changed power wise with that DP change? If the tubing got bigger in dia, and cats are still installed, you lost off boost tq, very, very slightly gained quicker spool, which will move the tq curve a little lower in the revs, full boost hp may have increased a little bit because of the lower pressure post turbo (more volume = less pressure).
all in all even if you gained 10chp from it, thats all of 5awhp, and it takes about 10hp to move a 3500lb car .1 seconds faster in 1320feet. So you improved your 1/4 mile pass by .05 seconds. If you think you can “feel” the difference going to walmart down rt 30, you are fucking out of your mind, or a walking incredibly accurate human dynojet.
I <3 physics and science.
ohh and I have a little experiment for ya, in regards to that rubber IC pipe VS aluminum.
If they are the same inside dia, or damn close… take zip ties, one per 1/4 inch, and wrap them up tight around the stock rubber charge pipe, snug them so they dont really move around by hand, but not so tight it crimps the tube. cover it start to finish. now go drive it and see if it boosts differently.
If my hunch is correct, its expanding the stock tube under boost, and the aluminum one wont. Again, less volume (aluminum tube with say 300CC of volume, vs a rubber one 300cc at rest and 400cc puffed out under boost) = more pressure. So another words, since the boost and wastegate didnt change, the turbo can “overboost” because it has less volume to fill (in less time too).
this is also seen on a much bigger scale when someone goes from 3" charge pipeing to 2.25" charge piping on the exact same turbo configuration, IE no other changes made. Just yours is on a smaller scale because the % of change in the system was made.
anything else?
You’re absolutely right. The stock IC pipe is a fabric contruction and it definitely “balloons” under boost. With the hard pipe you can feel the power delivery being a lot smoother throughout the band.
:lol wise and all-knowing Ron
Funny how a lot of people point fingers at people like me saying I dont know what I am talking about I never owned or worked on XXX car. Huh, without ever seeing the fucking evho he has, I already know the issue, and how to remedy it, with 5$ in zip ties, instead of his $200 hunk of aluminum tube (which i could have made for $30 in materials)
What expands will also insert energy into the material, and then the energy has to go somewhere, or contract. so it balloons out fast, reaches a point stops and sucks back in a little… making a sine wave almost if you looked at it as pressure.
The stock audi TT225hp 1.8t motor had the opposite. the turbo inlet pipe wasn’t strong enough, and sucked in under boost. People replace them with braided silicone inlet pipes to fight it.