the fenders are only messed up because the job wasn’t facilitated carefully. it can be done without any mishaps.
stretched tires are very cool to a certain extent. that one has a tad too much stretch for my liking.
that car will look great with smoked lights though.
It’s been all rainy and stuff so I haven’t smoked the lights.
And I need help. I have determined I am running way too rich, to the point where I had to warranty out 3 Iridium NGKs. The car falls on its ass at WOT and I’m positive it’s because it’s getting too much fuel. What do I do?
I am just going go out on a lim but can’t you just get a fuel pressure regulator or afc?
Yeah you should get a fuel pressure regulator since you already have the Walbro. Also you capped the line where your BOV used to recirculate right?
Bring the car over sometime this weekend.
Ernie get some bkr7e’s by NGK, i believe thats the part number, one there way cheaper than iridium plugs, there a couple steps colder than what your using and honestly, its what i think you should use, try those out and set your gap around .032 and see what it does, are you misfiring at all or just dropping on your face?
No. I put a huge breather valve over it instead since it’s not a vacuum line, it’s an intake line that enters prior to the turbo.
Are you talking Platinum plugs, Jesse? I have NGK BKR6EIX in there now. Coldest heat range for the Iridiums for that series plug. There were 5-range Copper Champion plugs in there. Holy cow what a great choice. I was reading just today in Import Tuner in a new section called Fact or Fiction. They tested OEM Champion Coppers in a relatively stock DC2 B18B, then used Champion Platinum, and gained 0.8whp and 0.0wtq over a 6 run average on a dynojet. Then they installed Champion Iridiums and gained 2.9whp and 1.8wtq average. Numbers don’t lie, Deuce!!
It’s all attributed to the narrower, more concentrated spark coupled with the higher conductivity of the Iridium metal. I have been looking into those Pulse Plugs the guy with the turbo ZX-2 was referring to, and they are looking more and more yummy everytime!! But they aren’t cheap, like $40.00/plug. I’m not spending $250.00 on plugs right now, though.
The car was completely falling on it’s ass, as if there was NO fuel and/or air and/or spark. But now, after fixing all those damn lines (I repaired 4 of the 5!!) and putting a smaller fuel filter in-line, I found it was spitting fuel out just before it got to the log. Under full pressure from WOT that made the car stumble cuz the fuel was drizzling onto the motor instead of into the injectors. But no more!!
Now that the motor seems to FINALLY be running right, I am still trying to finish the 5 lug upgrade and get the clutch, front wheels, and new brakes all on. The car is takes frighteningly long to stop when hammering on the brakes.
The guy I bought the intercooler kit from (www.rb-performance.net) is going to re-send me the clamps, this time via FedEx with a tracking number, so hopefully that can be on sometime soon too.
Anyone (ahem, SEAMUS…) know exactly what parts I need to finish the front 5 lug upgrade? I know I need the calipers, caliper brackets, knuckles/spindles, bearings/hubs, but do I need the lower control arms, ball joints, tie rods/ends, and struts/springs from an S14 too? Please let me know. Rob over at Harry’s said he wasn’t sure and to call him back. I’ve called twice and he wasn’t available either time. The teal car is still in their inventory, though, that the rear 5 lug came from.
BKR6EIX, coldest of the range? they make BKR7EIX and 8EIX which are colder plugs, and i dont know where you are paying 40$ per plug, but you are getting prison raped on that cost. NGK iridiums are about 11$ each
i got the 8eix’s for the price of ngk bkr7e’s :nod
remember, ngk has a 1 year warranty, i was blowing out the 7’s every couple months…so we’ll see how the 8’s do.a buddy of mine has been running them for over a year now and no issues.
you boner, im the one who told you to run the 8’s
what can i say, i took full advantage of it! you can toO!
i know ive got my plugs, im waiting on you.
All you need for the front 5-lug conversion is either 5-lug conversion hubs (which can be had pretty cheap nowadays) which use the stock spindle. Otherwise, you need the S14 spindle and have to use spacers for the S13 bolts to mount to the strut or drill the S13 strut holes bigger to accept the larger S14 bolts. (The problem being the holes in the S14 spindle are larger than those of the S13 spindle.)
Also, you will need S14 ball joints installed in your lca’s.
Easiest thing to do is spend $250-300 for the Ichiba brand (might not have spelled it correctly) front 5-lug hubs, or just drill out your factory ones using a 4-lug rotor drilled with a 5-lug pattern for a template.
There’s a 5-lug S14 in William’s junkyard which should have everything you need on it, unless someone’s yanked it since I was last there.
i was gonna say the same thing. get conversion hubs. and you can drill your s13 rotors to a 5 lug patter. have a machine shop do this dude. seriously. itll take them 25minutes and it will be perfect. they will center the rotors on the hub so it will rotate true, instead of a fucking wabble. just pay to have it done. get the conversion hubs and youll be fine. factory 5 lug s13 brakes. i think there is a conversion to run s14 calipers on an s13 or they might even bolt up. cant remember right now. then later if you want to upgrade to s14 brakes you can.
Yeah but if the intake line is after the MAF it might make the engine run lean.
unregistered air would be entering the system. that would definately cause it to run lean. cap that mother fucker off.
Yeah, S14 and Z32 brakes bolt right up. The only commonly used brakes that don’t are the 350Z Brembo calipers and obviously the Evo/STi Brembo’s.
Some have even made use of the CTS-V calipers (which are SICK).
Remember if you go with the Z32 rear setup, you need the e-brake assemblies since the Z32 setup uses a drum e-brake. You will also need to make a spacer for the cables since they rarely ever fit up to the forward mounting points (right before it attaches to the brake handle assembly).
As for this rich condition, if you put a Walboro in, chances are the stock FPR can’t do the job. Toss it in favor for an Aeromotive or AEM brand unit. I didn’t have troubles with my SR20 and a Walbro on a stock FPR, but I think that’s because the ecu had some aftermarket tune… sometimes it’s a hit-or-miss with the Walbro. Also, replace your filter with a Z23 filter since it has a larger surface area allowing for longer life, more filteration and a a slightly less restrictive fuel flow.
“Some aftermarket tune”
:idiots
i believe it has a z32 filter iirc. also if you get a nismo fpr its a bolt on affair.
PulseStar Plugs are about $40.00
Napa and Advance Auto were both only able to get the range up to 6 for me. WHere can I get 8’s?
Wow. Okay, I’ll check that out too.
I found front 5-lug S14-spec upgrade hubs for $170.00. I already own OE Sized S14 Drilled/slotted rotors, I just need something to put them on. I’m gonna save for that. Money’s been tight lately.