Evo 9 Tech suggestions about warranty

Mine lasted over 30k before it needed to be replaced. I drove it like an asshole sometimes.

:word:

i dunno, my sti is the first car i’ve ever had a warranty on and thus far it has been almost worthless… have to fight for everything, and half the stuff that happens isn’t covered. It’s almost easier to know you DON’T have a warranty than get frustrated dealing with dealers on this crap.

Northtown voided my entire suspension warranty because I refused to replace the swaybar endlinks with the crappy stock ones that were going to need to be replaced again. Keep in mind the swaybar endlinks were NOT covered so I didn’t want to keep having to pay to replace them.

northwon cannot void your entire suspension warranty cuz you are using differant end-links… you need to read up on the moss magnuson act

http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/buspubs/warranty.shtm

I’ve talked with both Ray Laks and Dan Georger Service managers and I can make an appointment at any time BUT… after seeing the service guys work at Dan Georger, I’m hesitant to take it to them. Ray Laks is a drive for me and I’d have to take a day off of work for this bull shit, which at this time doesnt fit into my schedule.

As far as the clutch goes I’ve done my research on the Evo 9/ its owners. I’ll make it short and simple; tuning the car, tracking it… ect will almost ensure your clutch to be replaced. I didnt even have 750 miles on it when I had it tuned and was out racing it the following weekend. Numerous individuals complain not only about the stock clutch, but the transmission as well on the Evo 9. I also lied, I did a fair amount of launching on the stock clutch at high RPM’s. So no excuse for it being replaced at 13k but my own fault.

good read, may come in handy

they can attempt to claim that it effects the other parts of the suspension by entering in different material characteristics. don’t get me wrong it is completely bullshit, however that is their argument.

End of the day to really force anything you’d have to go to court over it, and most people won’t do that, and they know this.

Jim, I think you already know this but before I got the Evo I was looking at your car on the Subaru lot before you bought it and came back a week later to see it was on the lift. I asked my good friend who works there if it was sold and he said yes. I was told I was lucky I didnt buy it because it had all sort of drive train problems. I dont understand why they are giving you a hard time if they knew the problems existed before you picked it up, but then again its a dealership.

old thread… what did you end up replacing the clutch with?

Jeller

So 5th gear still grinds?

Exedy triple cerametallic HD clutch

Yes

the reason I have a built transmission is the 5th gear syncro…

my car got the grind when stock when it was a few months old. they replaced it and it failed again within a couple thousand miles - but this time it was grinding in 2,3,5. they then said their shitty rebuild must have been abused by me so now it was my fault. (still stock, took 10,000 miles to fail the first time).

so I ended up spending like five large after all was done on a TRE transmission and never had a problem since.

hmmm. I have a feeling if i get it fixed it may do the same thing like you said.

what I can tell you based on talking with TRE is that the longer you let it go once it starts to grind, the more expenive the rebuild is.

With that said, I have like 20,000 miles with a lot of track time on my TRE transmission and it’s been PERFECT. never a hint of any problems – it’s also meant to be good for insane levels of power.

Exedy triple cerametallic HD clutch

Damm, those aint cheap.

Ouch… I have no issues with 5th gear at all, but somedays 2nd can be kind of touchy/hard to get into, no grind, just hard to get into… Havent quite figured it out yet. I may try some slight clutch adjusting to see if it improves.

Jeller

PM sent

Werd, bought Emery’s for a decent price. Had to replace the 1st disc though, had some issues. Covered under warranty… thanks Mike :tup:

that’s normal when the car is cold - I think it’s due to the design. only worry if it happens when warm. you can also double clutch going into 2nd when the car is cold and it should be happy.

also, looking at teamrip.com (TRE) their prices have come down a lot.

5 sp ftw

mmm, tasty:
http://www.teamrip.com/NEW_EVO_STAGE_3_TRANSMISSION.html

NEW EVOLUTION STAGE 3

Our new STAGE 3 transmission for the Mitsubishi EVOLUTION 5 speed transmission is as good as it gets. We improve the durability & service life of the transmission in several ways; gear detail work done to the lead edge and root diameter of the gear teeth which allows the gearsets to handle higher torque without failure. Afterwards, the entire gearset receives high intensity shot peening to raise the ultimate strength of the gearset, substantially increasing fatigue resistance by over 20% while reducing gear wear. High rpm shifts are not a problem because the engagement teeth are modified to increase the window of opportunity. Smooth shifting is the result of REM Isotropic Super Finishing of the complete gearset, hubs/sleeves, shift rails and shift assembly. Transmission oil passageways are enlarged to deliver more oil to critical parts. Afterwards the gearset is blue-printed to match the transmission case and assembled.

Transmission features:

EVO-9 taller 1st gearset & input shaft

EVO-9 standard 2nd gearset

EVO-8 taller 3rd gearset

EVO-8 taller 4th gearset

EVO-8 taller 5th gearset or EVO-9 short 5th gearset, YOUR CHOICE.

Electropolishing (REM ISF®)

Shot peening of gearset.

Including these parts:

New throw-out bearing

New clutch fork

New slave cylinder

New speedo pulse generator

HD trash magnet

Magnetic drain plug

EVOLUTION STAGE 3 TRANSMISSION = $3450.

Warranty is 12 months. click here for warranty info.

UPGRADE OPTIONS

These are the current options for the NEW STAGE 3 EVOLUTION transmission.

4.11:1 HKS final drive, add $1100.

3.73:1 TRE final drive, add $1100.

To order please click here: NEW STAGE 3 EVO TRANSMISSION

What kind of gear oil you have in there? I’m guessing you’re using the same viscosity as factory (75W85) or higher (75W90). You can put in some 75W80 granted you don’t track your car.

I have no issue at all with my gear box. Just hit 30k and everything else is fine.

Hmmm, an AWD Mitsu with shitty synchros?

Unpossible!