spray paint paint jobs do look cheap, but so do s13’s =/
I think Im going to be using some spray cans, have been doing some more research about the can sprays… meh it doesnt matter if it looks cheap, its a temp paint until I save up and get a real paint job
why doesn’t anyone paint their s13/14 flat white? Stain easy?
Hot pink ftw!
But yea, if its just a cheap paint job, then who gives a fuck. Just do w.e, and run with it until you save up enough cash. The same goes with unpainted body kits/overfenders and such. People always want to hate just because your shits not all one colour, but in reality, you have the parts no?
All I’m saying is it’s your car, your money, your decisions. In the end, someone is going to disagree, and that’s life.
Just my 0.002$
Itll cost you almost as much for cheap spray cans as it will for REAL GOOD paint… nothing crazy but a base clear with hardner and reducer will cost you under 300… and then if you do the prep work yourself bet you can get someon to paint you car for about 400 … search my car… paint cost 300 foir everything… then took it to my guy and he painted it…
tho spray cans can look dec f you take your time and put clear over it when your done
Spraying Clear via rattle can is damn hard.
roll on paint job dooo it.
http://www.rickwrench.com/index79master.htm?http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html
If you know how to spray an even paint job then you can just about use anything.
The reason pros use the gun is because it will spray a wide band of color so its easier to get a nice finish.
I did my whole car full paint job in my garage. And I also sprayed my most of my car at one point with cans too. It can be hard to do and get a nice job.
I suggest go out get some sealer. Not primer. Primer is good if you have bare steel. If your not down to the steel yet use a sealer. Then spray it with a single stage paint. Sealer also acts like a primer but it is something that’s meant to stick to many kinds of surfaces like bondo, 4 kinds of primer, cans of spray paint, etc.
Cost is about the same as the cans if not less. Think about it you will need about 8-10 (If not more) cans to get a good finish. At about 8-20 bucks a pop, add that up and you get 64 bucks at best. Or you pay 40 for single stage low end paint… hmmm… If you have a gun never never touch the cans unless its primer and its to fix a patch of bare steel you just worked on.
As for sand paper it comes down to the amount of work you need to do on the area. But I would use go from about 80 for ONLY the really really rough spots. and then slowly move your way to final sanding at about 400 grit. Make sure to always sand in one direction and. Then for primer go 600. Then final wet sand after the paint or clear is applied at 1000 -1200. Then buff that out or clay block sand it.
I can go into this more but this is enough to get you started. If you want to see my job look up the post “240SX Back from hell”
Good luck bro.
Those are cheap paint jobs that should never look that good. If you know your way around paint and autobody, you can do some impressive stuff on the cheap-goes without saying.
One question: what’s the going price for a good paint gun?
^ 150-300$
Add on a good compressor and that’s another 2-500$.
and you need lots of filters for the compressor.
I just did 3 stage candy finish back in september using HVLP gun/compressor on my s14 in my garage it was my 1st full car job its not easy actually it was more like a DIY project from hell if you never done body work, shaved off wing lost the antenna hole and fixed dents. If you want it to look good prep work is most important rust must be removed and patched otherwise don’t bother painting over it cus it wont hold. Cluthfire has about right sand paper grit. If you filling or patching and priming use 2 part body putty and primers far more superior then 1 component stuff however its a bit pain in the ass mixing stuff, if you can borrow or got the money to buy or rent gun and compressor i recommend it you’ll get better coverage than cans.Make sure compressor has a at least same preferably higher CFM rating as your gun. It will take some practice so try to paint some junk stuff with crapo paint to get the hang of it. Also make sure your new color is darker then any part being painted other wise it wont cover. If needed Primer or sealer the whole thing to get light color base, 3 coats of paint should give good coverage you can do more but try to keep it in 3 range other wise more coats you lay down over top of 1 another it will start to sag if you get too much as gravity will pull it down and it will sort of look like 80+ year old grannies skin. Most 2 part paint being paint and hardener you can re coat after 15 min. but all info is on labels so fallow those. Clearcoat provides shine and protection its tough but flexible so it doesn’t chip on 1st ding so 3 to 6 coats of that. Wet sand paint or clear like Clutchfire said above Other things you’ll need mixing sticks measuring cups if body repairs needed good supply of sand paper, respirator is a must if using gun most of the stuff is pretty nasty toxic shit especially clear no need to risk health just to paint a car and no dust mask wont do it, that’s only good for sanding.
eh i have used the paint described in the 50 dollar paintjob link and it is good even when not thinned and if thinned enough can be sprayed with an paintgun used the roll on method with afew bike ramps i made for my lil bro to use his stuntbike on and used the spray on method for my friends spoiler that he made no primer needed
I say roll on, you don’t have to worry so much about a steady hand and even spots. Unless youre incapable of using a roller.
There should be a How-To on painting and prepping. At least a cheap job keeps the heat off of you and saves from a lot of hassle. I got hassled by the police for having a tool box and wreches in my car last night. If I was sticking on new aero or something I’d do a cheap can job too at least as a hold over, to the best that I could do with whatever I had.
Flat white would look like a giant tooth paste stain/ chalk job. Flat red would be the ultimate in POS paint.
I had a 3-4 color car for over a year one point. and a primmer color for about 6 months. I found I got more heat after I panted it red. However never once been hassled by any cops. I even have the loud exhaust too. But really it feels sooo much better once you get one color on the car. Just keep in mind your a target with this car so don’t drive stupid or you’ll get nailed with or with out paint.
Don’t use a roller… Or after your done your job you’ll be so unhappy with it in the end. The gun you will need to buy but the compressor you don’t. Go to Crappy tire and rend the compressor there. It isn’t big but it will do the trick.
its getting redone and shit my hood had a piece broken off it from blowing away actually lmao and the car is getting resprayed flat black with a spray gun not cans next month so i dont car too much
my springs are fucked its getting slammed right now
why are you debating this $40 paint job…
if you don’t like it, spend another $40 and do the other option
holy crap… it took me less time to pick my colour, and it was an extensive and proper paint job… and pricey