I’m listing this for a friend.
81 Camaro Z/28 - maroon with Z/28 graphics
all original - 91000 miles
No t-tops (solid roof)
Not a beauty queen, but at $1200 a great deal for a starter muscle car
Car is in Tonawanda
I’m listing this for a friend.
81 Camaro Z/28 - maroon with Z/28 graphics
all original - 91000 miles
No t-tops (solid roof)
Not a beauty queen, but at $1200 a great deal for a starter muscle car
Car is in Tonawanda
auto or manual?
Sounds like a neat car for the $
[quote=“2TurboZ,post:2,topic:30570"”]
auto or manual?
Sounds like a neat car for the $
[/quote]
Auto (most of them were)
They just put new brake lines and wheel cylinders on the rear. It needs some TLC, but it’s about ready to inspect, insure, and drive.
any idea about the floorpan & interior condition?
all original = stock drivetrain?
I know someone looking… they are jealous of my new beataR. :bloated:
Wow. Suprised in the interest. Very cool.
I’ll try to post some pics tomorrow and also PM his phone number to those interested.
Make sure you guys look the car over reeeeeeeal good. I had a '78 'maro Z28 (w/4speed) the car had bad rot in and around the wheel wells AND, the area where the subframe connected was rotted.
Alot of the body parts can be replaced BUT, the subframe is a bit more difficult…unless you like to weld. Easiest way to check it is to jack up the car right behind the front wheel well, then open and close the door. If it doesnt close as easy as it did before jacking…well, then u know whats up.
THIS IS NOT TO SAY THIS CAR IS IN THAT BAD OF SHAPE BY ANY MEANS.
Just dont wanna see someone be upset finding these things later.
Hope that helps a bit.
[quote=“13005TEDGP,post:8,topic:30570"”]
Make sure you guys look the car over reeeeeeeal good. I had a '78 'maro Z28 (w/4speed) the car had bad rot in and around the wheel wells AND, the area where the subframe connected was rotted.
Alot of the body parts can be replaced BUT, the subframe is a bit more difficult…unless you like to weld. Easiest way to check it is to jack up the car right behind the front wheel well, then open and close the door. If it doesnt close as easy as it did before jacking…well, then u know whats up.
THIS IS NOT TO SAY THIS CAR IS IN THAT BAD OF SHAPE BY ANY MEANS.
Just dont wanna see someone be upset finding these things later.
Hope that helps a bit.
[/quote]
Good points. The subframe seems pretty good. The front floor boards have some issues, but the car is no junk. Like I mentioned, needs some TLC, but you can do a few hours of work on it and drive it as it is.
Waiting for pix!
Pictures have been added.
Call Bob if interested 863 - 7959
Wasn’t that the one that was on here for sale last year?
Looks just like it
D
[quote=“misteroman$$$,post:13,topic:30570"”]
Wasn’t that the one that was on here for sale last year?
Looks just like it
D
[/quote]
I don’t believe so. It was at a shop that he knew the guy that owned it. He picked it up and did some work to it, but doesn’t have the time to work on it now. So it’s for sale.
But I could be wrong…
so wut else does it need to be roadworthy??? or can i just buy it rite now and drive it away
these are cool cars if you wanna put some effort in. :tup: to NOT having leaky ass t-tops
Man, that reminds me of the '78 I had. Mine had the 350/4speed. Fun car!
[quote=“layton108,post:17,topic:30570"”]
does the hood fully close also or is it just popped in the pix?
[/quote]
It’s just propped. I was too lazy to close it.
this is my old camaro. nobody wanted it when i was selling it for $1000 obo. free bump glws