350WHP FWD car (probably will be more once i get comfortable turning up boost first the engines gotta run)
Suspension so far:
KYB-GR2 Struts with lowering springs, these arnt coilovers
solid FMM TM SMM
All bushings replaced with polyurethane completely around car
Questions:
in a FWD car, should the front be closer to the ground and keep the rear higher, so pretty much just lowering the front?
is a rear sway bar really needed?
front tires are descently wide, 225 across with 3mm spacers 14 inch rims
should i have smaller wheels on the rear?
Back should be up and firm to avoid weight transfer to the back. Don’t bother with street tires at the track they are useless. Smaller wheels on the back will save weight and rolling resistance but they look kind of dumb. The bushings and MM should help you out a lot.
it is a neon, but not a rice burner, real money invested, i dont bitch about spending 25 dollars on a cone air filter, i consider myself a true enthusiast
if you’d like here’s a breakdown (nothing against Idiablo but dont pair us up)
engine: Forged bottom end, crane top end
hahn racecraft stage 5 turbo S20G
portfueler fuel system with wlabro in tank return system
stage V fidanza clutch n flywheel
Phantom Grip LSD Red Springs DSS STAGE III Axles
UDP no ac or ps
battery in trunk
nothing but a cd player
cage
and my suspension mods are up there as you can see
and i wanna drive it on the street, apexi boost controller 15psi 35o horse on road, drag strip (scared as hell) 25 psi good for just over 500 at the ground, im sure sumthing will blow up
well on my honda for drag racing i run kyb agxs with 1000lbs rears and 400lbs fronts works for me and im going to be running slammed as fuck for next year and ill see how it does. Last year with pretty much this set up i was cutting 1.6 60fts. so it seems to work well.
t some input as well. the GR-2 shocks are OEM replacements, they are going to wear out just as quick with lowering springs as your stock shocks and struts would. I would get the agx series or go to another company with adjustables
right thats why i would in most cases go somewhere else for the shocks but he definitely shouldnt be using the GR-2’s for any lowering or higher spring rates
the only way to go is Koni…but thats just one mans opinion…unless your spending mad dollars and getting like a complete custom setup from QA1 oe something…the Tokico Illuminas arnt bad either…they have a D-Spec I think its called too…but I loved my konis and I will be buying a set for the new car as well
i know the kybs arnt the greateast but they gave me a better feel than stock even tho they are oem replacemnt, ill check out that agx replacement, but would rather have konis, acr neons came with them stock from the factory so ive been looking for a set in the jy to rebuild
and has anyone any advice about a rear sway bar? worth the 150 bux?
i plan on dropping the front of the car 1.5 inches, and the rear 1 inch
a rear sway bar IMO is a good idea…but all my cars have had shitty rear suspensions that pretty much needed one…if u have a lot of understeer it will help reduce it…as far as drag racing i dont know the effects of one on a FWD car
KYB doesn’t make agx for the neon. Get either coilovers or koni’s.
Also when your lowering your car. lower it to where the axles are straight across the cv joints.
Don’t get the phantom grip. Either mod the obx or get the quaife. And you know with the dds axles you’ll need different hubs because those axles have a different spline count.
Why spend the money for a hahn kit instead of build your own?
Go with megasquirt for fuel and spark. MS2 just came out for the neon and its suppose to be a lot better than MS1. All the things that megasquirt can control its dumb not to get it.
