I know a bunch of people on here have sealed their garage floor with epoxy…
I was trying to find the best product to level and fill in the pits and cracks before I move onto that step suggestions?
I’m in for results here too, I used the Behr Epoxy from HD, it’s like $28 per gallon, but has chipped up like crazy and is not chemical resistant like it says…and I DID prep the floor properly.
I need something that’s like seriously industrial…
yea my problem is the center section of my garage probably 6x6 is pitted/cracked pretty good…
I know most of the patch/crack fillers are meant for something smaller I want to get a good surface before I come back with epoxy.
The problem I’m having is the shit is just not adhering. Cracks/pits don’t bother me, but all the chipping and pealing certainly does.
The chipping and peeling is caused by the cracks. When you have a pit and drive over it, you break the paint film at the edge of the pit. Then water gets in there and makes the paint chip or peel. Not only that, but you used an inferior product. Long story short though, paint is only as good as the surface it goes on. Another general rule of thumb is that if the ground around the garage stays wet longer than the rest of the lawn after a rain, it’s not a good idea to paint your floor. You can also test this by taping a 2’x2’ piece of 3mil piece of plastic (lawn garbage bag) to the floor with duct tape. If there is moisture under the plastic after 4 days you should get your drainage fixed before you paint the floor.
use the rustoleum epoxy shield professional solvent based paint line with the solvent based clear coat
it is really expensive and hard to find, but you won’t have a problem for 20 years and it has a lifetime warranty if you use the solvent based professional
-to fill the cracks and stuff first, pressure wash anything on the surface off then use the concrete etch http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=19
and then the concrete patch http://www.stylintrucks.com/parts.aspx?category|category_root|-31=Tools+&+Garage=&category|cat_-31|448=Garage+Flooring&partfamilyid=6035&x=48145&scid=AFFP
both can be found at ace hardware in derby, and if you go with epoxy paint use the solvent based, not the water based, water based will peel right off, NOTHING can touch solvent based, it is really hard to find because solvent based paint is illegal in NYS now, ace hardware in derby has it but thats the only place i found it at.
Derby wtf lol
---------- Post added at 01:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:09 PM ----------
You know of anywhere that has big buckets of that concrete patch? The area I need to cover is probably 6x6 lol which is why I was looking for suggestions
the one that i know that works well is the concrete patch, and it comes in a 24 once package, theres 2 parts and you mix them together to active it, i don’t know of any good one that they sell in a big bucket
there is a brand called sakrete that you can buy polyurethane self leveling sealant in gray that comes in a caulk gun , my dad used it in the cracks in between the slabs, i’m sure you could use that for a large area to fill cracks as well he also painted with the epoxy over it and hasn’t had a problem with it
illegal? ugh, i hate people like you. if it’s really illegal do you think a fucking ace hardware would carry it? let me guess, you can’t buy oil based paint in NYS either right? if you’re going to give someone information about a serious project like a garage floor, at least be correct with your statements. lifetime warranty doesn’t mean shit because the sales rep will either come in and say you prepped it wrong or they’ll give you your money back and say good luck with that peeling epoxy.
garage floor… srs bsns
I also called around. The paint outlet by Union rd and the 400, home depot AND lowes told me they only sell the water based product because NYS wont allow them to sell the solvent based products. Ace in Derby on rt5 is the only place in the area i called that carries it. No need to be a COCKSUCKER when that is precisely what the stores tell people.
LZ how big aprox are these cracks/pits? I just completed my garage and i used the epoxy crack sealer on the larger ones, the smaller pits just get filled by the epoxy…
It does turn out great, i love the results. +1 to the solvent based. I used Rustoleum solvent epoxy and the solvent clear coat.
before:
after:
Yeah, it’s not like I sell thousands of gallons of solvent based epoxy every year or anything. I’ve only been in the coatings industry 6 years so that dude behind the counter at valu/lowes/depot/ace totally knows more than me. I don’t care what you buy but don’t give false information when someone needs to paint their floor. It’s not like its a living room wall.
like anyone gives a fuck what you do? Someone makes a mistake and you lip up. Yet another nyspeed keyboard tough guy mouthing off. A little civility goes a long way you ignorant fuck
Oh no, u totally told me. You’re the man.
jt its a large area of pits the deepest maybe a 1/2 inch but since the area is so large one of those little kits won’t cut it…
I thought someone made cement patch in big buckets that you spread on
i would try the sakrete self leveling sealant, i believe they sell it in a bucket as well as a caulk gun, at lowes
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&productId=202261771&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&PID=3523498&ci_sku=202261771&ci_src=10043468&cm_mmc=CJ--3523498--10368321&AID=10368321&cj=true&locStoreNum=1273&marketID=93
I will stop by lowes thanks
There is more to consider here than meets the eye. First, there are MANY products out there to fill and expansion joint or stress groove. The first thing to remember is that you should always use a product that is compatible with the product you are going to topcoat with. There are many one component materials that work pretty well unless they become sealed. Then, they don’t have a strong enough bond to hold once the hydrostatic pressure is sealed in. They become the point of least resistance for that pressure to escape. Another consideration is that the material is flexible and will remain flexible over time. Some products use plasticizers that leech out over time and then become brittle. You’ve probably seen window putties and caulks that get hard, brittle, and even shrink over time. Same principle…
So,
- Use a product that is compatible with the topcoat you intent to use. Contact that manufacturer and ask…
- Once you complete #1 you probably won’t even run into #2… But, just in case… Don’t skimp… A cheap joint filler can cost ya’ big time later!
Good luck with your project!
There are epoxy products that do retain a level of flexibility after they’re fully cured, and they can be coated over with other epoxies, but as mentioned you need to make sure that the filler and any subsequent over coat are compatible.
Cracks or expansion joints can look unsightly and they trap dirt and spills making it difficult to maintain the floor and keep it looking sharp and clean. If the cracks are large enough they also make it difficult to move carts, tool chests, jack stands and other items. A good crack filler will take care of those issues.
For a small crack it’s fine to just fill it with the filler, however with larger concrete cracks or joints you should take the time to first form a “v-notch” in the crack – this is known as “chasing the crack.” Here’s why chasing the crack is important…
After a crack or expansion cut is filled with putty, as the concrete expands or shifts it can compress the putty and squeeze it up and out of the crack. If too much putty is forced up - it may cause the epoxy coating to split on the surface.
One way to help prevent this is to cut or grind a “v-notch” along the crack’s length before the putty filler is applied. The notch will spread out the pressure and help minimize the chance of the epoxy coating splitting.
In the top example we have a crack with our filler IntegraFlex 1921 (green) but no v-notch.
The bottom example shows that a V-notch is cut first, and then IntegraFlex 1921 is applied, followed by the other coatings. As the slabs shift the force on the IntegraFlex 1921 is spread out, minimizing pressure on coatings. A flexible filler also helps if the slabs separate, moving apart from each other.
There are several tools available to chase the crack. Probably the most common DIY method is to use a hand held angle grinder. There are blades made specifically for cutting the v notch, but they can be hard to find. A wide grinding blade or diamond cup wheel at an angle will also do the job, check with your local tool shop for recommendations.
Note that the larger the crack, and the more putty used, the greater the potential displacement and problems. So if the floor has a deep “never ending crack” rather than completely filling it with putty you should first stuff some “backer rod” (available in hardware stores) in the crack and then apply the IntegraFlex 1921 putty. The backer rod should be about 1.25x larger than the crack, it will compress when it’s inserted.
IntegraFlex 1921 is a 100% solids, two-component polymer hybrid resilient filler for expansion joints and cracks in concrete or masonry. When cured IntegraFlex 1921 is extremely durable yet retains excellent flexibility (up to 50% elongation at 70˚f), it is self priming, and provides exceptional adhesion characteristics. IntegraFlex 1921 is recommended for expansion joints in general industry as well as expansion joints of garages, highways, bridges, driveways, sidewalks, and marine decks. For vertical or overhead joints and cracks we offer IntegraFlex 1922. Both IntegraFlex 1921 & 1922 provide an excellent bonding surface for other Wolverine Coatings Corporation products like BondTite 1101. A one gallon kit will fill approximately 165 cubic inches.
This post is from www.garagejournal.com by alphagarage
^ very good information!
Yes and there is tons more on www.garagejournal.com in the flooring section. And you can ask questions to vendors of the different epoxies.
Make sure it’s something you can drive on, that one can’t be driven on.