Gears grinding at high rpm from 1st to 2nd gear. Now let me first say the car is back on the road after 5 years not moving in a garage. So i know it might just be the fluid. Transmission is from a newer year according to the previous owner. Clutch has lots of engagment in it and it only happens the first few times and then seems to be o.k. But all the gears could be a little smoother in my opinion. So i want to try and get this fluid/oil changed just to cancel that out. Its a manual of course. Any shops around the GTA that offer this service at a fair price? I heard it $50-$100 and i like $50 better. I know its easy to do but i live in and apartment and no space or time.
you can’t change transmission fluid in the parking garage in your apartment?
It’s just as easy as changing your motor oil.
Assuming you have a KA/SR you’ll want GL-4 transmission oil, MT Redline, Quakerstate GL-4 @ Car Quest, I’m currently trying out Quakerstate Synchromesh so far so good.
Time? if you’re slow, 2 hours MAX.
Step one: warm up
Step two: put on stands (you want the car to be level when draining)
Step three(imo): pull out shifter (alternative tranny fluid fill location) [you’ll want c-clip pliers make your life easier, or cut yourself a few times with 2 screwdrivers]
Step four: 1/2" breaker bar/ratchet and get the drain bolt out of your tranny and wait awhile (check the magnetic bolt while you’re at it and clean it off)
Optional: flush old fluid
Step five: put bolt back in after flush/drain
Step six: 2.5 L of whatever GL-4 fluid you got.
Step seven: put back shifter
Done.
You wanna make $50 bucks? lol .Seriously
$50 on top of gas money and fluid money right? haha. You have soo much more room in your parking garage than I do in my house garage… just do it man! If your car has been sitting though, I’d WD-40 the drain bolt a bit the night before
No time. Any shop recomindations?
Ya know what. I passed my e test and im feeling lucky. Might try this on the weekend. Thanks man.
you understand that mechanics don’t hit warp drive when you take the car to a shop right?..
you’d probably spend near the same amount of time waiting as you would doing the job yourself…
Its probably your clutch. Get the clutch bled.
If it sat, i guarentee its that. Old fluid wouldnt cause a issue like that, a clutch thats not disengaging at high rpm would. Shoot me a text, i have a friend that could do the clutch fluid and a tranny flush today. 905 962 7498
i don’t know if its the same for ka transmissions, but for sr transmissions, you don’t need to touch the shifter. there is a bolt on side of transmission you can put fluid into
How? You get a long as vinyl tubing, and put a funnel on it, and pour fluid in to it, while keeping the pipe and funnel well above the transmission, using gravity to push the fluid into transmission. Stop when the fluid is level with the hole your pouring into.
That is the correct and easier way to do it …
I personally use a oil hand pump, put one hose in oil, put other in transmission, pump, overflows, done. Gravity is to slow for me.
Thanks man. This week is wacky at work but are you guys around this saturday or sunday? Thing really needs a once over from a real 240 guy. Hasnt even had timing done or valves adjusted yet. I hear there both key.
Got quoted $300 today for clutch and transaxle fluid change. Seemed about double what it should be am i wrong?
ok then…
Shit i forgot u gave me a ph #. Yeah i met up with a member today and he took it for a spin and the consensis was the same. The clutch engages at the end of the pedal release so i might try and adjust the pedal as well. I thought you had to swap the fluid to bleed the line and then looked into it and saw u didnt. I think ill save my money for parts and see what the line bleed does.
bleed your clutch. get underneath the car (on the pass side), locate the tranny and on it you will find the clutch slave cylinder. open the bleeder valve which if sitting for 5 years i bet will snap off, so go ahead and buy a new slave (they’re like 14 bucks i think). put it on (which requires you to unbolt 2 screws and remove rubber line) and bleed the clutch.
it also sounds like you’re redlining 1st gear before your car is warmed up when you mentioned it happens the first few times then stops. but if your clutch is working fine and it still grinds your syncros are prob fucked, not the fluid. wouldn’t hurt changing it after 5 years but paying $300 is retarted. there’s tons of diy’s on how to do it, its super easy
Is the Royal Purple 75w90 a good fluid to use in the s13 tranny?
Where could i buy a clutch slave cylinder? Is it a easy Canadian tire part?
^Yeah, any parts store will be able to get it for you man.