its not all about initial spool, its between gear RESPOOL. the 1.8t, especially under 2.0L displacement with a stock head doesnt flow alot in or out, especially if revving below 8,000rpm.
im not sponsored either. i pay my way and work on my own car. a .63 AR is all you need unless you are building a 2.0/20v with big cams and going after 600+ numbers
and if you want a .82 3076R, you should have just done a .63 35R. spool will be close on those. my 30R makes 24psi at 4300rpm, a 3076R will do the same at 4500, so with an 82 youre looking close to 5,000rpm for 24-25psi, which is 35R territory on a 1.8t
Well we will see I guess. Once the car is running the next seasons investment would be a big port head, cams and manifold. So I can take it past 8K. Then at that point, O2M maybe.
i know. you should do a search of my buddy drew aka " The prime ministah" and look at his old build threads from 05-07ish before he totalled the car if you want a stripped down mk4 bay.
I am glad to see he made it. That thing had a cage in it too? It looks like either he was doing 150mph and wrecked at Daytona speed way, or that cage wasnt build for shit. Still looking at his posts thought.
quick question… is when did the 1.8t ECU change from narrow band to wide? I got a guy who wants my APR ECU but his is a 2002, and I think it wont work becaue if I remember correctly it is a narrowband ecu.
depends on what engine code he wants to use it with. AWW/AWP(01.5-05, i have an 02 awp car) are compatible ECU’s. only problem is he will need to get the immobilizer defeated… the Eurodyne/Tapp BT programs come immo unlocked ( if you dont go tapp, i will never answer another question :wow)
yeah man, it took a long time to recover. still kinda messed up. but hes down in cali, big body lexus now. :excited
when the impact occured the cage plates pierced the floor pans. but he did have some BALLLER Status racing FIA approved seats, and Willians 5pts with proper cage mounted harness bar, only problem is the chassis didnt support it very well.
WOW, that must have been a hell of an impact. I wonder how big the plates were on the floor… if the was any.
So 01.5+ is compatable, long story short. He has an AWW engine, so we should be good to go right? BTW, my cyclinder head isnt stamped?!? Sup with that?
standard floor plates, 6x6 i think, and the impact was bad, high speeds + plus embankment + brick wall
some werent. either reman. head or just one of those that rolled out like that. you can just cross the part number of the head with an AWP head and it probably matches… if this guys car as a VVT cam tensioner then its a wideband car.
as it sits. installed the new crossmember, removed the coolant bottle, washer res, evap and some othere small crap. Ordered a bettery reloaction kit, and will start on that soon. Started to figure out how I can get as much of the wiring into the rain tray as i can. Took the motor mounts apart to polish and install the new bushings.
UNITRONIC Big Turbo 830CC software.
Siemens 830CC high imp. injectors
Walbro 255 inline fuel pump and install kit
Tial 50MM V-Band BOV, with aluminum V-BAND weld on flange
small green tial WG spring, so I can run the yellow/smblue for 34lbs’ on a MBC
Reasons for going UNI over tapp. The person I have been dealing with for the entire build is a UNI dealer. I know the tapp is more agressive than the uni, but there is no reason I cant tune it up to where tapp does. I also like the unisettings software. I like how I can modify the tune, and same different settings off to a laptop. like a with W/M and ice in the W/A IC on 80 deg ambient days, then another tune for no W/M, regular W/A IC and reduced boost for 80 deg summer daily driving… and switch between the two in seconds. Plus, I like being the underdog and would like to run something different instead of picking this tune just becasue it makes the most power out of the box. Not to mention, I contacted, well tried to contact Eurodyne AND chris tapp for more information and never got a response. I talked to UNI and they answered my questions imediatly. AND I paid about $150 less for uni over tapp.
ok heres the thing about unitronic. they have alot of cases of poor running cars, and several years ago alot of cars were blowing up. i like Eurodyne because as it stands, they have the most HP and quickest/fastest ET on a stock ECU for the 1.8t… id be interested in seeing how a uni car runs around here though. i might do the TAPP 830 file along the way.
Unitronic ECU, unlike the TAPP which has locked timing tables(which is the reason for the dual maps) will use adaptive functions and adjust for octane, which can be good, but some of what you are removing(EVAP) is used for ecu adaptation. sounds crazy but it is. so basically it will pick up what fuel youre using and move the timing as needed, 93/110 or whatever.
im not one for INLINE fuel pumps but for your goals id say do the BOSCH 044 inline. 300lp/h and more reliable than the Walbro
just out of curiousity, what did you pay for your Uni file?? when i went Tapp, i got a loaded ECU and it was only 750, 93/104 maps
you mention uni-settings(which is the same as lemmiwinks with a Unitronic header on it, tapp can use either or)
contact issues? i talk with Arnold and Chris tapp all the time, Ctapp@tappauto.com or Sales@pagparts im sure either way though youll enjoy it as long as the O2J allows :ahh
EDIT : get SPARE AXLES NOW! you will break a few if you drive it hard and are slammed. im a pro at VW axles swaps
O2M = no more broken axles
this has just recently been released by Eurodyne, its a fully programabled ME7.x ECU, 900$ for it, its much like the Kpro on a honda. hello tunability in a VW.
im not trying to create an issue, but i know you said you would like to tune your own setup. and this is exactly what you need. Eurodyne.ca and Chris Tapp FTW
:number1