Girls car is back under the knife.

i just want a 337 or 20th with the APR stage 3+ for my daily and i would be happier than a ****** with purple drank

yeah I just saw that Maestor thing too. From the looks of it they give you this and a lic. to use it on ONE ecu. They send you all the baseline files, and you go from there. It also sounds like they are not the same files like a 630 tapp tune, that you can just load in… it sounds more like the tune chris may have started with… but i only read up on it i dont have connections.

You got a good deal on the sw for $750, everyone is $850 that I contacted. I paid around what you did for the uni.

As for the people blowing up motors on uni… who knows what they had going on. there are, as you know alot that will pop an engine, and this is the internet… so I take it for agrain of salt most of the time. There are some retarded engine builders out there, and some retarded drivers too… hopefully my ride doesnt fall under those 2 sterotypes! lol

Axles, yeah i will grab 2 extra and leave them in the trunk! we will see, once it runs who knows, right.

I also will pick up a WOT box to help my syncros live at high rpm 02j shifts. The 2step though will prolly be the death of my axles!

Eff that, you just spent twice as much as I did, and got half the power potential!

the tuning suite you get a DEFAULT setting. you ahve your BT program, but you also can scale in larger injectors, datalog and tweak(then reflash). but just incase you have johnny retard tuning your car and something goes way into the wrong side of where it should be you can just reset it and go back to the default BT program, rather than scrap it and have no tune to work with at all… the other thing about it is if you tweak the files, unlike unisettings and lemmiwinks, if you go too overboard with it, the car will detect it and run default, so its supposed to be pretty murphyproof as far as safety parameters…

as far as using it for ONE car, thats how everything is, you are purchasing a license, much like Hondatas KPRO, or the NEPTUNE systems, but once the program is encrypted into that ECU, the ecu can be swapped into another car, you just cant use the Maestro controller on another ECU.

i would buy the car used already modded with the kit.

i like ARP, no matter what anyone says. they are conservative but the engineering and development is fantastic

yeah ARP makes Awesome fasteners

true apr runs very reliable… becasue they have gental tunes and gental hardware.

But if you did what you said, and bout one already done… you would driving it… while in my boat I am pipe-dreaming on the internet about my car!

UPDATE:

Motor is back. JE 8.25:1’s +.10 over, IE rods, Calco bearings, Euro Spec main studs, new main seals. Just waiting on the main studs to come in. When they come in I can swap out the stockers and put the oil pump and what not back together.

ECU is back from UNITRONIC and back in the car.

Wiring harness is being stripped and minimized. Removing the useless sensors befor they leave the rain tray. Relocaited the relays and what not into the rain tray. Relocaited the main power distribution stuff. It is coming along nicely, and will make putting the engine back in alot neater.

Grinded off a bunch of BS spot welded “brackets” and what not off the enging compartment. removed the crappy seam sealer and I am working on filling and smoothing out the engine compartment.

SIDE NOTE… next project when this is done, (hopefully befor winter) 98 Ford ranger, regular cab, steel style side bed… stock floor body drop, complete back half 4 link setup, canti. bag setup… WOOT Bed, front clip and cab is stripped/removed and we started to remove a bunch of the stock junk.

8.25:1 have fun out of boost. it makes a BIG difference. my car is 8.5:1 and i wish i had stayed in the 9.x:1 range

Nobody has fun out of boost!:ohnoes

Shaving and tucking the wiring harness.

Brother doesnt know what the hell I am doing, and doesnt think it will run again. LOL

But my buddy does! haha

Pass. side is tucked, and almost shaved. you get the idea. I didnt take any pics but today the entire side is butter smooth. Even the little spot welds on top of the strut tower.

Here is the bottom end.

Head bolted up, cams out.

After we spun the cam to move it to TDC, wewent the wrong way, and it jumped a tooth. so cams came out and got retimed. Yeah,I didnt have the chain decompressor, so I made one! i love my new tig welder. So here it is back together and timed, atleast the head, need a new T-Belt. Put the lower pully on, but need to take it back off to put another acc. bracket on.

nice work, looks good so far!

finishing up some hole filling and shaving work on the fender.


More stuff back on the motor

Drivers side and rain tray should be all primed tonight and ready for paint. Then I bust into the transmissions and get them put together.

Looks good, coming along .

I got that VAG-COM cable for when it starts up

Yeah about that cable… I think it died since it only worked a littl bit on your car. But I will meet up with you at some point to get it back. lol

haha yea, lmk

i see dual mk4 burnouts coming in the near future.

I see dual 02J’s exploding in the near future! lol

When u posting a build thread slacker? or u stayin on the dl?

what build thread. i dont know what you’re talking about. my car is stock and will stay that way. and the o2j should be fine. i mean if it goes it goes i’m not gonna cry about it.

So that 460 bigblock you shoe horned under the hood is stock?:ninja