Gladman finally paints his KA-T! *Pics*

I don’t love my offsets, i can’t go big enough tires :-/

I wish I got 10" for the rear and more offset, there’s a ton of clearence between my coilover springs and the wheel/tire and barely any on the outside… a 10" with proper offsets definitely fits the rear of an s13 hatch much nicer than this crap I have. The fronts are a good size I guess… offsets should have been +24 or so… with +22 it rubs a TINY bit when I slam the ride height down and do some boony cruise downhills and/or hill climbs with stupidly crazy corners…

anyway

rears are 17x9.5 w/ 255/40R17 +38
fronts are 17x8.5 w/ 235/40R17 +22

You run megan coilovers right?

Bah… with the kyb agx struts and springs in place the struts really take up space lol… its too bad… and of course i dont want to run spacers to put strain on the tie rods, bearings, or anything else for that matter on bumpity bump hits… and crack them or whatever… either way why risk it… do it right… no quick fixes imho… oh well… I’ll get some new rims when the time comes…

yeah… most coilovers are very similar in size however so it doesnt really matter

and good job on the no wheel spacers thing - you’re absolutely right.

Spacers are NOT GOOD for your car.

By the way i got whiteline bushings all around… the car was set to 2 front and 4 rear and it handled nice, but holy crap it was hard.

Then I rode in HeatW’s car, and he had stock new bushings and coilovers set at max settings (keioffice) and his ride felt SOFTER than mine… wth… lol.

Then my dad (since he’s driving it – my hand still healing), set it to 1 front and 2 rear… and it was still feeling stiff but was wobbling… but not AS stiff…

How lame… lol… I wonder how my car will feel when I get coilovers… say… stance… (I wouldnt go for megans might as well save and go all out with stance…)… and I remmber you were getting polyutherane bushings too heh… damn… expect for the car to hurt.

I don’t mind the feeling in the seat, I just worry for the poor chassis.

Right now my dad set it to 3 front and 3 rear. I haven’t been driven in this setting yet though… it still handled really nice in corners though at 1 front and 2 rear… i mean it was all polyutherane bushings and new end links with polyutherane bushings and subframe spacers (i guess thats the killer).

Yikes… when is your ride going to be done anyways?

Uhm… You do know that the stress put on the rest of the car is the same right? The only difference is the stress on the lug nuts themselves is higher when you use spacers.

Hold a pencil in your hand, and imagine putting weight on it in he center and holding one end. Now imagine holding the pencil at that same end but putting the weight on the other end instead of in the middle. The strain and stress is greater. While with properly offset wheels, this doesn’t get added, i’d demonstrate it visually if i wasn’t lazy to draw it lol.

That is exactly what you’re doing with a lower offset wheel. If I were you, I’d take a second look at my assumptions before I start arguing.

Yeah Antonio is right, it is the exact same thing, you are just building the spacer into the rim with your offset choice.

lol its not. Think about it. You’re extending it.

If you have a dif offset you are still not ADDING something in between to extend that pencil and shift the weight. The wheel is still locked at the same position. Think of the wheel and the dish inside. The ‘dish’ inside is still in the same spot when attached to the car. While if you add a spacer, you are adding something else and the ‘dish’ itself is no longer in that same location. I’m too lazy to illustrate this. It’s not the same.

Dude, you’re forgetting that “the pencil” is NOT your lug studs. Think about adding a spacer to a wheel, the physical procedure of doing so. You’ve either never seen a spacer or are just plain confused. It is the exact same thing as having a lower offset wheel. The difference lies, in the fact that now your lug studs, having been extended to accomodate the spacer, experience a higher amount of shear. I don’t have CATIA on my desktop anymore, but if you really want to, that badly, I can grab my laptop and whip you up a model of a wheel and a hub with some studs on it. Keep in mind, this is a bit of a PITA to do, so I’d rather you take my word (and pretty much everyone else’s) for it.

if you have a rim with a +40 offset and add a 20mm spacer, you are at +20mm

if you have a +20mm offset rim, you are at the exact same spot.

simple as that.

You are extending the weight. GAH I swear to God you almost make me wana illustrate it to you… but im too lazy lol.

The ‘dish’ of the wheel inside DOES NOT move or change location when you mount it to the wheel without a spacer, whatever offset it is. The only thing that changes is the outer part of the wheel hence how you get it spaced out, because its welded inside, placed by different offsets.

When you add a spacer IT DOES change location, the ‘dish’, and it spaces the whole wheel itself outwards, and adds something in between the wheel and thus the need to extend studs.

Look at Jammin’s wheels, do you think that with a higher offset or narrower rim width they lugs will be ‘sunken’ in that much? the whole wheel is made differently in accordance with what offset you specify (on any good quality wheel anyways).

http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/9407/wheelspacers7ri.jpg

Are you in first year engineering or something? I can only see something this dumb coming from someone that has gotten kinda a glimpse into what’s going on, but hasn’t really been around for the full picture yet. Your little weight and “stress” distribution diagrams only illustrate the loading on the studs, not the hub, control arms, etc… The loading on the rest of it… will be the SAME, because it is related to the position of the wheel’s center in relation to the hub itself, and has nothing to do with the studs.

well shit einstein, i only drew it with a fucken broken hand thanks for being an ass :slight_smile:

Go ahead and run spacers! :slight_smile:

Look at the picture I’m posting, and note the lengths marked at the top and bottom. They are the same. The loading on the hub is based ENTIRELY on those two lengths, not the length of the stud which is what you’re drawing. Do you see now?http://img477.imageshack.us/img477/2042/omg1tr.jpg
White being the wheel’s regular mounting location, red being the spacer, green being the hub.

uh buddy the spacers dont go IN FRONT in the front of the wheel, they go in between the wheel and the hubs. Wrong line drawn at wrong place. With a wheel spacer you’re not trying to push in the wheel or something (actually that wouldnt even work lol) you’re tryin to push it outside. hence space it. Your drawing doesnt make sense and is messed up lol. Its kinda funky though haha.

FUNNY placement of wheel dish and spacer in yours. According to yours the wheel spacer comes after the wheel dish. I just edited it below to show that the wheel spacer comes BETWEEN the hub and wheel dish:

The spacer pushes out the wheel dish and places itself in place of wheel and with longer studs extends to hold the wheel.

According to your original drawing you still placed the wheel dish and hub together but placed the spacer somewhere in there after dish or something (accordin to your line drawn).

What the hell are you even saying? The line I drew is not a physical existing line, it is a MEASUREMENT line, between the outside edge of the hub and the outside edge of the wheel. Loading is being applied on the outer surface of the wheel, and is being transferred to your suspension via the hub. The spacer, which is the RED thing is IN BETWEEN the hub and the wheel’s mounting point. The little white rectangle is the mounting point of the wheel. Seriously, go look at a wheel and a spacer, you’re not understanding BASIC concepts here.