God help please. Overfueling...Hydrocked

Canada Nissan Automotive
1

Alright, i give up. I’ve been under my hood for what seems like forever (which probably has alot to do with the weather finally shaping up) and i’m not making any progress here.
I need some tips/ suggestions, otherwise its gonna have to go to the shop and i don’t want to the big money if i can avoid.

To make things simple, I’ll just list everything i’ve done, and what i know it isn’t.

Recent work (all done in one shot)
-New SARD 265 fuel pump & Deatchwerks 550cc injectors.
-fmic
-custom side feed plenum with Q45 throttle body.
-Z32 MAF
-Highflowed Neo rb25 turbo
-Ecu was mapped for Z32 and 550ccs to get me to the shop for a full Dyno.

Symptoms
-After everything was installed, turned the car over and it started but idled like hell, running stupidly rich, couldn’t sustain idle or catch 1st. tried a couple times, figured the MAF was wired wrong.

-Came back the next day, turned out the MAF was correct, so we tried again, and boom, instantly hydrolocked b/c of flooding the engine with fuel. MASSIVE flooding. popped the plugs, saw that there was a small piece of silicon from gasket maker on the plug electrode in cylinder #1, which was the flooded cylinder.
thought maybe that was why #1 was flooding and pumped out the fuel, and put everything back, turned it over, locked right away. this time #6, and #3 i believe, point being that it was getting maybe half to one revolution before locking as the injectors are just DUMPING fuel into the cylinders. I mean i took out the plugs and covered the head with shop towels and turned it over and it was like niagra falls. (yes the pump fuse was removed and ecu unplugged)

-We tried 4 different ECU combinations from stock, to just the rb20maf and 550cc tune (put on the 20 maf) to even one chip tuned for bigger injectors just to try to suppress all this fuel.

-Nothing seems to change the result. it turns over for a fraction of a second (sometimes 4 secs if we really empty the cylinders) until BOOM, hydrolocked.

So at this point i’m rulling out maf as i’ve swaped in ones that i know work, Injectors as i see it unlikely that all 6 are broken, and plugs for the same reason. I also double checked the resistance on the injectors too.

My best guess is a wiring issue with the throttle position sensor that telling the injectors the throttle is open when its closed. I’ll look into that and dbl check my voltage levels on the ingnition pack that tell the packs to fire. (anyone know where i can find those voltage specs?)

Ideas guys?? Please… i’m so close to having a ridiculously fast skyrocket here, its killing me.

2

check the lower o-rings on the injectors… did you lubricate them before installing? if not they’re probably torn, dumping pukeloads of fuel.

3

Well i can dbl check, but the injectors were brand new, i greased the o-rings, and i find it hard to believe all of them went.

4

Your symptoms are identical to a few people I know who install new injectors, thats all… might only be 1 or 2 that are ripped, that would be enough.

5

again, i can dbl check, but its not exclusive to anyone one cylinder i don’t think at this point, it changes every time.

6

Check your injector pulse with a noid light as you crank your car, do not use a test light

Also double check your injectors are functioning (look in the FSM and there is a test for them) because alot of deathworks injectors have been failing out of the box lately.

Also measure the voltage from your MAF (the signal wire usually white) when you car is in the on position

Also pull the codes from your ECU

7

Ok, thanks for the tips guys.

Used an fpr this morning. Didn’t fix the problem. Did make the locking more consistent in that it takes about 1.5 full seconds for the engine to lock. However, this is a little bizzare. it no longer sounds like hydrolocking. Infact was able to continue turning it over, and it continue to crank for 1.5 secs before locking, and sounds most definitely like something electrical is just cutting out and the starter just stops.
TPS is something i will look into tonight, but i’m beginning to wonder if it has anything to do with relocating my battery to the trunk. I had to with the position of the of the TB was pointing right at the stock battery location.

Wondering something isn’t grounding properly maybe…

As for all the ECU talk, i’m sure there is some truth to all that, but the one thing i can say is the tuner that did my ECU is a complete nerd with engine management/fuel management electronics. Every professional tuner has their aspects they excel at better than others, and this guy seems to be an electronic wiz for the most part, so if he tells me my ecu should run the car enought to get it to the shop, i have to take his word for it at this point.

Really!? where can i find some info on this.

8

Really!? where can i find some info on this.[/quote]

Look in the RB20/25 FSM, there should be a sticky where you can download them at the top of the page.

Your car will start with no TPS. So that is not your problem

9

Pull the fuel rail off with the fuel lines connected, turn the car to the on position and make sure the injectors are not leaking. Its usually a good idea to soak the injectors in motor oil when installing them.

10

problem solved, thanks for your input. I don’t want to type up the long version of what happened, again. check it out below if you’re interesed
http://forums.gtrcanada.com/showthread.php?p=230075#post230075