-s13 red top
-z32 maf
-walbro fuel pump
-550’s
-rs enthalpy tune
-greddy fmic
-t04e-17
I just wired it up and i know there is nothing wrong with that. I de-pinned and re-pinned the harnesses/ecu to be correct from many well known sources. only had to solder a few wires.
at first cold start it starts right up and runs fine. after letting it run for a while to burp the coolant we took it out and it had no power. floored, it would barely move.
its running rich which leads me to believe its the tune, but I think its something else. The only things I can think of is the timing may be off, the plugs might be bad, , could possibly have bad gas in it (it sat since last summer) and/or the maf may be wired wrong because the conversion diagrams i found were a little more vague than i would have liked, but it started up cold just fine. it did have a hard time starting after it had ran for a while though.
I am leaving for a week tomorrow, but my buddy (its his car) is going to check timing and the plugs tomorrow. He is also going to try to get a hold of RS enthalpy, but its saturday so who knows.
have you done a boost leak test? Car might be reading the air coming in and dumping fuel but the air could be leaking somwhere before entering the motor causing it to be rich. Check all your vac hoses? You recirculating your bov or is it vented? Make sure your BOV completely shuts when in Vacuum (idle) if you’re venting. What are your plugs gapped at? I kno many of us ka-t guys are running .028 to .030 gapped plugs not sure about SRs.
havent done a boost leak tests but all the couplers are new with t clamps. but good idea about the BOV being open as it is to atmosphere. I definitely make sure that gets tested. Ill have him make one of those testers with a pvc end cap.
edit: its not bad gas as the car was running and driving fine 3 weeks ago with the KA.
welp, here is another thing. he changed the plugs last week and today I decided to see if we were firing on all cylinders. #1 looks brand new, the rest are definitely used. So we did some switching around and its not the coil or the plug. All 3 wires to coil #1 have continuity to where they are supposed to. Not sure how to differentiate between the ignitor chip being bad or the ECU not grounding the #1 signal wire. We did notice that the #1 coil goes to the consult port (for rpm verification I assume) but I dont think that would have any negative impact.
any ideas on how to rule out the ECU or ignitor?
we also double checked the injector wires and MAF wires. (also, how do I check the MAF for proper operation? its new aftermarket)
here is the instructions on how to test the ignitor. everything tests out except the last row, the results are switched.
we did it twice and got the same results. I think the readings were around 1.7-2.4k ohms when there was continuity and 6M ohms when there wasnt. to me 6M ohms is basically not continuous.
trying to get a ignitor to double check. next step is ECU. its possible RS.Enthalpy hit something when they were in there to make the #1 coil wire not fire.
dont think unplugging it would do it, cuz the reading has to be good in order for it to work properly.
if u look in the fsm it will tell u how to test it
I found the diagnosis for the temp sensor 2.1-2.9 K ohms at 68 degrees (page EC-201 of the fsm). Ill give that a shot. BUT on page EC-32 it states "when the temp sensor output voltage is below or above the specified value, engine coolant temp is fixed at the preset values as follows: start 68 degrees and running 176 degrees. so technically it shouldnt effect it, only throw a code
but right now we are just trying to get it running on all 4 cylinders.
I am still not sure about the testing of the ignitor though. I really want to find a known good ignitor to see if it will get spark plug #1 to fire. Otherwise the only thing that I can think of that would single out cyl #1 is the ECU. I hope its something simple like a loose pin in the ecu, so Ill double check that again.
do these motors have a map sensor also? if they do unplugging the maf would rule it out as it would then default to the readings of the map sensor. But as stated #1 not firing is key. put a noid light on it see if you get anything. Maybe it only works during cranking.
we just grounded the spark plug to the block instead, all the other plugs work and all 4 coils work too. whatever is connected to the #1 wiring doesnt work though. which leads me to believe its the ignitor or ECU