its a K03… boost falls off HARD post 5800rpm.
like the valve on Rays car.
and about that synchronic thing… not necessary at all. what he should do is get rid of that junk and put a oem bosch 710N diverter valve on his car, he doesnt need anything more than that
i thought those dubs have a DV instead of a BOV, unless its aftermarket?
Don’t most cars now adays come with a DV rather than a BOV anyways, or neither for that matter.
all turbo cars ive ever seen come from the factory with a recirculating valve to vent boost pressure…
yea, i thought ur supposed to recirculate it instead of venting atmospherically, cuz the car doesnt know ur venting and just proceeds to put-put its way to a stall at stop lights, in some cases
on MAF engines
They recirculate for a few reasons, one being emissions (obviously) and another being that they have MAF sensors on the intake. The sensor is metering the air as it enters, if you vent it the MAF never knows it. The ECU thinks it has X amount of air coming, and fuels it accordingly thus causing a rich condition (which can stall the car like Vot said.)
IIRC It depends on the location on the air flow sensor. If the BOV is before the MAF then it should be okay. I run a BOV and had to move my MAF between the BOV and throttle body so it won’t stall the car out.
Diverter valves keep the turbo spinning, thus retaining boost pressure through your shifts, BOV’s are for cars that don’t restrict the air into the turbo. (map based cars) Turbos like to have a pressure differential so the impeller doesn’t stall, loosing the ability to make boost for a split second. Yes you will notice this and wonder why it’s happening. So stop putting BOV’s on MAF based cars for christ sake. :headbang I don’t know how many times i’ve heard this story…but if i had a dollar for evertime i have…i’d be trump.
i read a buncha threads on the russian audi forums about ppl bitchin about their cars idling and running rough after a bov was installed. theyre all obsessed with that PSSHT sound when u change gears and they HAVE TO have a bov on there, but they never bother to actually recirculate the air and just vent it atmospherically. then theres like 45 responses from ppl saying that they should recirculate it or use a DV. that repeats weekly as a new kid comes in with a bov installed and car running rough problem. i actually did some reading before i chipped my car and asked a bunch of ppl around and i ended up buying two dv’s and 0 problems so far. just goes to show you that you do you homework and it pays off. dont just be a parts picker. this is why i ask so many dumbshit questions, because if i didnt id be doing dumb shit to my car and wrecking it
Yeah I guess I don’t really care too much. I’d like to go MAP though at some point.
car never stalls or anything just i guess i need a diffrent bov.
jsut get a TT DV and call it a day
You like the sound huh. Forge sells a 50/50 hybrid DV .about 180.00$, I had one, worked great
But i sold it ,because it did nothing for my car . Except made it whooosh. unless you have a big turbo, I would stick with your stock Bosch DV.
but i want a aftermarket one. ;D
buy a honda then, they go psht!
Forge DV’s are junk. I’ve sent more of their crap back due to failures, excessive wear, or just plain not working. Cheaply made billet version of the Bosch valve is all it is using piston materials that wear too quickly.
True, 710n is fine just. SES is just a pull type recirc valve that’s bulletproof.
FORGE 50/50 hybrid DV , 50% atmospheric 50% recirculated . or 100% atmospheric , 100% recirculated . car never stalled on me . and had the whooosh sound
what boxersix said!!! I thought you were going to sell the car???