GT28RS vs. GT2871R

[pcproa]

I have two Dyno charts below of each turbo. Lets say, for simplicity sake, both dynos are of the exact same car, but with the Different Turbos on.

GT28RS (Disco Potato)

GT2871R

I’m planning on driving my car as a Daily Driver with some mild to moderate track time. It will be driven all year round. What do you guys think between the two?

[pcproa]

It would seem that a smooth curve gives you the best day to day drivability.

[kazzxtrismus]

flat is good for street…so “option A” imho
and better for longevity…
a spike at high rpm’s is dangerous and not good for longevity

flat means even accel and (as you can see) more power earlier in the RPM range…(better for drift imho)

why? cause if it takes you 300hp to break traction, you have it at 4krpm not 6krpm…so you break earlier, cooler and easier on the clutch

throw on a supercharger and bump that same curve straight up!

yes…same curve but higher #'s!!..

share the intercooler and get a monster reduction in post lag! as a pre/post cooler?!!?!??!
or do i have the math wrong on the cooler idea

[pcproa]

I believe I’m on my way to day to day drivability, so I’m setting forth to the GT28RS.

Drifting would probably be better with the GT2871R though. Not saying that 600WHP can’t break the tires loose, but the tires breaking free is one of the most important aspects of drifting. When there’s a rapid incread in engine power, more or less that means there is a rapid change that the engine violently starts to spin faster. The change will be more dramatic than the tires can hold onto and the wheels will start to spin without the car moving forward.

Now a smooth power band, the car will continue to accelerate but you’d have to rely on a change in environment for the wheels to break free, unless of course, you stab the gas all of a sudden. The GT2871R wouldn’t require that you stab the gas.

[pcproa]

I know. I wasn’t saying 600WHP can’t do it, I’m just saying that it’s a little easier with the GT2871R that does the rapid power change on it’s own to break the wheels free.

[duckJAI]

@pcproa

I believe I’m on my way to day to day drivability, so I’m setting forth to the GT28RS.

Drifting would probably be better with the GT2871R though. Not saying that 600WHP can’t break the tires loose, but the tires breaking free is one of the most important aspects of drifting. When there’s a rapid incread in engine power, more or less that means there is a rapid change that the engine violently starts to spin faster. The change will be more dramatic than the tires can hold onto and the wheels will start to spin without the car moving forward.

Now a smooth power band, the car will continue to accelerate but you’d have to rely on a change in environment for the wheels to break free, unless of course, you stab the gas all of a sudden. The GT2871R wouldn’t require that you stab the gas.

OK before I type anything, this is my opinion and I could be totally wrong as I have never driven a boosted car at its limits. However, I have quite the experience in drifting.

I myself would prefer the smooth curve because of the following. (Keeping drifting as its main usage.)

1. Predictable power and not a spike out of nowhere. This can cause difficulty in controlling a drift and even while initiating. I’m almost imagining it like driving an automatic and you punch it and theres no instant power, until a second later and then BAM it comes all at once.

2. If you fall out of the boost range and this happens often while drifting, you basically have (for argument sake) 1/2 the power you would have at full boost, while with the GT28, even if you’re at lower rpms, you still have 75% of the power there. Mind you, these are just approximate numbers as I am looking at these graphs.

3. It will take more finesse to get used to as the spike seems to be very dramatic. More throttle control is needed and less error for mistakes. Yes throttle control is important, but why make things more difficult than it has to be right?

NOTE: I could be completely wrong, but from a drifting perpsective, that’s my 2 cents.

[Osad]

I don’t know much about motors and turbo’s and all that…

But I’d prefer the GT28R because of driveability. Not to say that it’s not going to produce power, because they can build and build and just keep building boost with the right tune, as shown in the first graph. A peaky curve is ALOT of fun. But I prefer a strong motor that just keeps going. And I don’t like to over-rev when I’m on the street, it’s just unneccessary attention. But when you want that power it’s there. And it’ll still be a hell of alot of fun to drive even shifting at 3-4k.

When I do some motor work, I will be going with either the GT28R, or maybe something a touch smalled in Garrett’s range. Because power isn’t all that important to me. Suspension is my main focus right now, and a solid and reliable motor will only add to my enjoyment and will ensure a good combination of reliable power, and train track like handling.

[pcproa]

I agree with your principal entirely. That’s exactly the argument I was using with Terry but he stuck true to the GT28RS
Both can give you that neck snapping performance when you punch the gas on either. That’s only good though if you have the tires to keep the power on the road and not spin the wheels everywhere.
That’s my biggest problem even with the pair of GT25 turbos that I have on here right now. The boost comes on hard and if you’re not sure what you’re doing the wheels just spin like a mad man at the boost point.

Osad, the GT28R is not the same as the GT28RS. Hope you’re aware of that.
World tests show that the GT28RS spools a little bit later (not very much, a couple hundred RPM) but also the GT28RS peaks in horsepower about 40HP greater than the GT28R.

[pcproa]

Eventually, but if I want to run 315s under the stock fenders I’d have to do some significan’t modifications. If you look at my tires right now, the wheel wells were rolled and the tires are almost touching. The back seems like it actually rubs at times. I’m running 265s on the rear right now.

I do plan on a widebody kit. I’ve posted a guys car on here by the name of “collegeboy” before. He has a widebody Z32. I want my car to look similar to his

Well, the bottom pic is not collegeboy, but this is an idea to the widebody that I want to get on here.

[pcproa]

What do you mean by tub?

Well I bought a pair of Sidemount Intercoolers today that can support just past 700RWHP.

Upgraded Intercooler on the left, stock intercooler on the right.


[pcproa]

Yes yes tubbing, but that setup will not work on a car with MacPherson struts. The entire suspension including the coil and shock should be contained in the wheel or towards the centre of the axle.

[pcproa]

So, I bought my Intercoolers today

Without counting my eggs before they hatch, it seems like I also bought turbos today too.
hint hint… they are a pair of GT28…

hahahaha that’s no hint, both sets begin the same way.

[pcproa]

@DJPyro

You got the RS. I know you.

…You want the 71R, but you got the RS.

Nice stabbing at it. Too bad you may have missed.
I want really really big power goals on pump gas.

[kazzxtrismus]

the biggest problem with “peaky” power curves is the reliability of the power curve for the pplication at its current moment

having enough power to break traction at any time and in a reliable fashion…that is to say, you know just pushing a little harder in the gas will allways break traction in the same reliable way with the same reliable rate of rotation etc.

a peaky graph requires you to stomp on the gas to break traction.
(at lower power #'s than what PCPROA is talking about / showing)

at very high HP#s like 450+ it dont matter as your lowest hp is probably like 325 or something… which means anything bove idle can break traction if you clutch kick.

that said

peaky power curves that peak at low #'s like 250HP require almost redline to break traction with good tires…this is no good as on occasion redline RPM’s causes quicker rotation than is necessary or required

this make the car snappy or “ass happy” and can be dangerous if your kinda new to those physics…a la…“goona need some body work”

being able to break traction at just about any time, turbo spooled or not is key…why because the rotation and control of the rotation is reliable and predictable…
all you need to do is get to know your clutch…which we all do whether we want to or not…becuase the car is / will still be a daily driver…

this means an easy to daily drive, easily adjustable power, easily driftable, easily gripable, easi;y tuneable car…and most of all

these adjustments and tuningw ill mean little change to the dynamic handling of the car, and therefore a 10 second learning curve between grip race and drift race and street driving.

and if you can

have 3 presets in the tuning of the computer,
this will do as follows,

getting to the track cheaper on gas, less noisy, less destructive, less wear and tear and on the best tune for the street (a la 91 octane, less tire wear, less tickets, less clutch wear, etc etc etc)

drift track driving the car on the best tune for the application

grip track driving the car on the best tune for the application

do you have aafully tuneable ECU?
spark & fuel timing dwell etc? (I cant remember)

[pcproa]

^^^ I’m working out the details to get a fully tunable ECU right now. Should be a couple weeks in the works