waitin for the super induction box to come out
ok i a few serious question on tuning an obd1 gm car
i got a 94 chevy camaro LT1 OBDI
im wondering how you wound know without dyno tuning a car how to figure out when all the timing should be locked in like 36 all in at like 3800 rpms and at the peak torque to find out when the motor is maxed out of fuel and timing due its volumetric effiecency limitations …
for instance if i took a stock lt1 and advanced the timing i could add more fuel and make more power because from the the factory all cars generally come detuned for reliability so im trying to figure out out much fuel could my motor take in and how far advance timing and when should it all be in by…
because no matter how much timing i give it theres the limitation on how much air it takes in to burn the fuel mixture or if i HAVE to dyno tuned…
thanks for help in advance
This is a bit of a loaded question. In tuning a FI car (personally) I don’t set timing first. I would start by retarding timing, dialing in desired afr, and then bumping timing until I found the threshold of the motor. Meaning adding 1 degree at a time until the motor makes noise (knocks) then would back it down about 10% for safe keeping. There is no ‘magic number’ per say because every motor on every car will have a different threshold. In short the best thing you can do is purchase some good logging software, dial in you fuel, then worry about timing.
:ponder wow dude… extremely helpful do you tune cars if so do you deal with american cars? possibly mine…
I only tune Mitsu/Subaru (mostly because the only software I’ve purchased so far). You should contact Seth @ Moon Performance email@example.com to setup a tuning appt.
Most cars, especially GMs run rich to be on the safe side. You actually may gain power by leaning out the mixture depending on what mods you have. For N/A most tuners shoot for an AFR of approx 12:1 WOT. All depends on the application. Some tuners have alot of training and experience doing what they do. If you only want a street tune than keep it conservative.
for an N/A motor id MUCH rather see an afr around 12.5 to 13:1 rather than 12:1… lean is mean and its STILL richer than stoichiometric. 11.5-12:1 for a boosted application is what I like to see.
Im also not a tuner. :
Boosted 93 octane ~11.0-11.4
Boosted 93 octane + methanol ~11.5-11.9
Boosted 100 octane ~11.5-11.9
Boosted 110 octane ~11.7-11.9
N/A 93 octane ~12.0-12.4
N/A 93 octane + methanol ~12.4-12.7
N/A 100 octane ~12.4-12.9
N/A 110 Octane ~13.0-13.2
All estimations for a fairly safe setup…of course there are several ‘surrounding’ factors that will come into consideration when dialing in your afr such as injector size/fuel pump/fuel pressure/ect ect
do people really inject meth on n/a setups? wtf?
Yeah…you can still use it as an octane substitute. It doesn’t have as much of a gain as it does in boosted app’s but can still be useful.
I have a 2007 Mazdaspeed 6 and im looking at putting a new intercooler on it. There are two set ups im looking at
- the first is an air to air set up: most fromt mounts go for about the same price for this car
2.This one isnt totally on the market yet but will be soon http://www.turbinetech.ca/produit_detail.php?id=74&SESSID=e5e9937ad57fd8c848d126def7e53bc0&lang=AN
Im wondering if its worth going water to air for prolly 2 to 3 hundred less? Also i dont want to fab up my own so thats not an option.
I recently swapped in another Z32 MAF to replace my old one which was damaged by water. And now the car runs slightly leaner. Maybe around 12.0 @ WOT. But now at 1/2 the max boost (~5psi) the AFR is around 14 or so. Is that something I should be worried about? The car seems to run quite a bit faster.
BTW-Motor is a RB25DET
Bump. I’d like to know before I really drive the car to much more and if I have to fix it before the drift event this Sunday.
Contact a real tuner like Sean Ivey or someone with experience with RB motors.
Air to Air is kid tested and mother approved. It works, the MS6 folks love using the A2A FMIC which works wonders vs the OEM top mount. Water to Air is the best solution if you can get a reliable setup because you will always have sub-ambient air temps being blessed into your motor.
I don’t have a lot of RB motor experience but in general as you accelerate the mixture should lean out…you shouldn’t be going lean then rich then lean again. I wouldn’t personally be beating on a car running 14.xx AFR at part throttle, especially under boost. But again I’m not familiar with how RB motors are setup…given however most turbo applications don’t like to be any leaner than 12.0AFR
It was an AFR:Boost:Throttle relative question…he didn’t ask me anything insane about an RB motor that Dr. Nissan would need to answer
Thanks, I thought is was weird.