Heating and Starting Problems..

Well I got 2 problems… first one is starting the car…

On a cold start in the morning, car starts fine and idles good. But after driving for anything over 10 minutes, if i shut it off and try to restart it right away or 1/2 hour later it struggles… And its basically turning over and running for 5-10 seconds bogging at around 400-600 rpms…Sometimes it takes 10 attempts to start while i play with the gas. No starter/alternator/battery problems, its all been replaced and I’ve got a 1 farad capacitor as well, ive come to think its a fuel/injector problem… what do you think?

Second problem is the heat in the car, it sucks, after maybe 30 min of driving it will blow heat, but not too warm…I’ve done a coolant flush at my work before in the summer, so im not too sure if the thermostat stuck accidentally. I just went out and bought a new thermostat, gasket, and locktite ultra-blue that im going to put in, problem is, it looks like a bitch to do…anyone done this before? does the fan need to come off? or can I just do it from in the engine bay without taking anything apart… by the way its a KA24e…

TIA guys…

I’ve had problems with bogging and idle on my integra… its because the idle air control unit on the manifold is messed… or leaking so its not getting the right readings i suppose? so it’ll drop to 4-600rpm and die… then wont start for a few minutes… if i rev the shit out of it just before it starts to bog… like 4-5000rpm it’ll kick in the cold air idle and stay at 1500

Mine does the same thing… but thats an intergra… what can you tell me to do to fix this… thanks…

It’s possible that your problems MAY be related.

I had a similar problem and it was the coolant temperature sensor.

Car would switch between 4-600 RPM wanting to die and 1,500 RPM fast idle.

Get it looked at fast bud, cuz you might find yourself stuck like I was. :cry:

It sounds like there’s no fuel going to the engine but it could be many things, the best thing to do is wait until the problem occurs and then check for fuel or spark.

I would be wise to check your IAC valve like Jedi said. That will cause alot of idle problems and deaccel problems to. There is a fuse for it in the fuse box under the hood. If the fuse is good put test light or DMM on it and see if there is any power going to the fuse. You may have to check at different conditions ex. at start up and at deaccel (have someone step on the gas and let off) The IAC should come on as the idle drops below 1000rpm. Also check the fast idle valve by pulling the rubber hose that runs into the pastic intake off and put your thumb onit to plug it then start the car cold and feel for suction if there is it is fine. Then i would check all vaccuum lines and make sure there arer no leeks.