so this past week my truck has been acting up very badly. it started on monday morning when i started up my truck to go to work…do the usual 10 minute warm up and take off. get to a red light and the truck stalls. start it up put in neutral, and it stalls again. so i just start it and keep giving it gas til the light changes. the rest of my 15 minute ride it didnt do it again (stopped maybe 3 or 4 times.) so then the next day im driving and it feels like my tranny is slipping while driving in 4th and when i shift to 5th it revs up a bit and then goes to normal. now i get in it tonight to go up the road and i go to shift and when the clutch is pushed in, the engines almost bogs out and the check engine light came on. so i turned around and took it home not wanting to damage anything else. iv gotten word that it could be the oxygen sensor…iv changed one in my turdcel when i had it so thats no biggie. but it seems to me that it might be something a bit more than that. anyone got any ideas? sorry for such a long explanation but i wanna get all details. thanks.
was it in gear when you pulled up to light? It sounds like you may be having a clutch issue. The engine bogging when you push the clutch in could also be a sign of main bearing wear, where the crankshaft will move forward when you press the clutch. This’ll be a tough one to diagnose over the internet. Does your truck have an oil pressure gauge or just a warning light?
well i just replaced the fuel filter and the light is still on. i went to autozone they diagnosed to it as either a fuel filter or a throttle position swicth…or something of that nature. he told me to take the clip off and bring it back to him to test it but i dont have another ride to take me up there at the moment.
Yea that sounded like what was happening to my truck. I would be going up a hill and need more power but the truck just wouldn’t down shift. I know your driving manual, but my engine idle was getting all funny like yours, and it turned out to be a fuel filter.
Also if your talking about the ranger you have in your sig. I know there is one or two at M&M you pull it. So if you need any parts that you can just pull off another one thats where I would head.
sounds like it might be something serious to be honest. what racerX said sounds pretty bad, but also very possible. but if you want to see if its the TPS, get one at m&m as jeremygt suggested, as a new one is like $50+
OT: ill never forget when you drove the truck up the snow mound at the mckinley mall :lol:
Yea THAT SHIT WAS CRAZY!!!
i forgot…where is the video for that?? haha
Ask Nick Cooter he knows, Hey Bobbyg if you can’tget your truck working PM me I love working on trucks.
yeah i was just out driving it thinking maybe i just needed to go a few miles to see if the light would go off and still nothing.i would push the clutch in the the idle died real fast. so im gonna changed the throttle position clip tomorrow and see if that does it.
so when you push the clutch in now the idle is fast? Did they tell you what the code was at Autozone?
no…it almost stalls…there is no idle it just wants to stall. even when im driving i have to redline it and shift real fast to keep the engine running. the only codes that came up were the fuel filter, and the idle air control switch. i already changed the fuel filter and it didnt do it so im gonna buy the switch over the weekend and hopefully that does the trick.
If you have a code for the idle air control that’s definitely the place to start. There is no code for a fuel filter. The code was probably for lean condition. A common problem on fords is a dirty Mass Air Flow Sensor that causes an inaccurate barometric pressure reading. The truck will think it’s at a higher altitude with thinner air and lean out the fuel trim. You can take the sensor out and clean it w/ some carb cleaner. Than disconnect the battery for 5-10 min to reset the adaptive memory.
alright guys thanks for all the help…i finally got it fixed. i just changed the idle aircontrol switch and unhooked the battery for a few minutes. started back up fine no check engine light and it drove perfect. big pain in the ass but glad its over.
Nice :tup: if you don’t mind me asking how much did the switch cost you?
wellllll it cost me around 53 dollars. but it didnt solve my problem. the light cam back on and im taking it to a dealership by me to have it looked at.
carb cleaner can damage the MAF, you can buy a can of “electrical parts cleaner” from radio shack that works wonders on the maf sensor, or you can use a Q-tip and some rubbing alcohol if your EXTREMELY careful
Yea Carb cleaner eats through plastic like flies on shit. Nick and I know.
alright so now im frustrated and im done trying to fix it. im gonna take it to a shop and have somebody else fix it. thanks for the help anyways guys.