help on hydraulic release bearing?

i got a hydraulic release bearing and i was told that i will have to make a stop behind my clutch pedal so i don’t push it in too far and have a mess if anyone at all knows anything about these please fill me in on what the steps are to know where it is perfect thank you i appreciate all help

one more thing to add it is not for the srt-4 that is my brothers i have a 93 Honda civic with the h22 motor and gsr tranny


Not sure what you are talking about. The throwout bearing on the input shaft of the tranny? That isn’t hydraulic itself, but the shift fork is hydraulically activated…is that what you are referring to?

i dont know what you mean either, but the clutch lines on a 93 civic are already hydraulic so i’m not sure you would need to modify or add anything. to make it work.

ya i got a hydraulic bearing it eliminates the shift fork and everything its hydraulic lines that goes inside the tranny right onto the input shaft and its a little cylinder that a different type of throwout is on and it does not exceed to the max then stop it does not have a max i need to know where i should stop pumping the clutch into for it to stop so it dont hyper extend on me and over push everything but i dunno how to know

This sounds like the worst idea ever why would you want to change from the factory honda set up??? If it aint broke dont fix it

:doh: :stupid:

lol guess i cant ask a ricer a question about building a fast car haha peace


No you cant. But why change from the factory honda external slave cylinder? It just makes no point to put hydrualics inside the dry side of the transmission transmission if one of the those fittings leaks or fails its bye bye clutch. IMO the whole idea is a waste of time and money.

fI have the same thing in my car. I have the Tilton one. You dont need to set a stop, you can ust the one thats there. Its on the top so you will need to set it kinda close and then bleed the system to change you pedal settings. Its not that hard just take your time and get it right the first time or you will f the clutch up.

are you kidding? do you realize how much more responsive and accurate the hydraulic throw out bearing feels over the fork, as well as how much more consistent it is?

No I didnt.

I got the tilton hydraulic release bearing the twindisk clutch and the tilton flywheel and a couple ppl were saying that once bled and even while bleeding if you press the clutch in so much without haveing the stop on it that the bearing can shoot in way too far and to weld a peice of metal or somethin in that certain spot after findin it i was just curious exactly how to do it they said to push it in untill the release bearing touches the pressure plate and then only so much more after that i am not sure how much more after that i should do tho

thanks a million to nitroice40

I didn’t realize this was to actuate a dual-disc Tilton. Now it makes sense…you didn’t disclose that info. I just assumed you were trying to use this setup on a near stock-ish clutch. My bad.

no it is a h22 motor with the h-b kit with a fully done up tranny and quaif lsd cp 9.1 pistons h-beam rods supertech springs retainers golden eagle intake mani 1000 cc injectors a 1000 fuel pump hondata s300 4 bar map tilton twindisk clutch and flywheel borg warner s361 luvfab equal length mani tial 44 mm vband wastegate crower stage 2 turbo cams 70 mm throttle body and everything else i can get pictures here soon everything is sittin in my kitchen right now waitin for the block to get back to me so i can start on it all

A few things you will need/do to install that clutch

  1. Flip around the nut/bolts in the pressure plate, the nuts should be on the inside of the clutch (they come the other way and if you dont flip them they will not clear the tranny)

  2. You will need D series manual tranny flywheel bolts ( the b series ones are to long)

  3. High strength lock tite for all the bolts

  4. A splined clutch alignment tool, needs to be splined to line both disks up ( I used a old input shaft)

Hope that helps you out!