i’ve searched and searched, and couldn’t really find a solution. I’ve had my SR20 for about week now and. it was pretty good, until I went to drive it, and when I go above 30mph, and put it in neutral to slow down, the rpms fall to zero and the engine dies! Can someone please help me out? thanks
vacuum leak.
the bov is loose it moves around could that be it?
do a leak down test, tighten up your BOV and see if it helps
im gona go try that thanks guys
my friend has a 240 with sr and all 3 inch piping and a greddy type s blow off vavle , if u down shift it wont do it , and if u put it in neutral it will just drop rpms and sometiems stall out , just downshift and ull be ok 
or just give a lil gas when its in neutral
thats what im doing right now, lol but i need to know exacly whats rong with it, it needs to be fixed
i had this problem too… i tightened all hoses, cleaned maf and cas first with electrical cleaner… seemed to get better… then i clean iacv sensor through the idle screw then i cleaned my throttle body today… so much black crap… used a toothbrush too… does not drop idle when i clutch in anymore so i would do that if nothing else works
If your BOV is atmospheric it will cause your car to cut off when you clutch in or put it in neutral. If that is whats causing the problem either recirculate your BOV or run the MAFS in a blow through setup.
how do you run in a blow thro setup?
im havin same problem, its a ka-t with a greddy type s
if its none of hte above problems jsut get the hks idlestabilizer
If your running a blow off valve without any sort of recirculation, this is whats going to happen.
fuel is a problem, a vacuum leak or boost leak will not cause the car to stall, it would run rough during idle your leaning out during deceleration, what setup do you have running? this could also be the problem of a open atmospheric bov, the engine cannot compensate for the dramatic lose of air, and the maf will mis calculate voltage load on the hot wire
dude, are you kidding? a vac leak will CERTAINLY cause a car to stall.
Lol, i can defiantly vouch for a vacuum leak causing the car to die. Even a bov that leaks is a vacuum leak, and will cause the car to die. Especially when off throttle.
no it wont, the only vacuum leak possible to cause a car to actually die one be the main to the brake booster, no car would die or stall from a leaking vacuum line, the idle would be high or even eratic and jump from 500 to 1500 but it should never die, the only reason that happens is because the hot wire maf will be miscalculated, but and more fuel would be consumed to compensate
please explain your theory of a vacuum line stalling a car, sorry if there are multiple leaks then yes, but a single line or even 2 should not cause a car to stall, possibly dirty hot wire
and anything before the maf like the bov is not a vacuum leak, it is a boost, leak but i guess this depends on were you maf is located, which should be for the most accurate reading right before the throttle body, you want the air measured right before it enters the engine, after the intercooler because cold air is more dense, i see people have it near the turbo and that air is hot so the maf will calculate fuel for hot air not cold, which means you’ll be running rich, also there is manifold vacuum and ported vacuum, before and after throttle body
sorry it will run lean