so i decided to upgrade my car’s subframe/diff
i donot knw the difference between hicas vs non hicas subframe and vlsd diff…
which one is the better choice for my car. or if s14 subframe/diff are bolt on…
Start with telling us what the hell you want to do first, and why you think swapping subframes will give that to you?
long story short, my car span out and hitted the curb in result i bended control arm and subframe
Sick drift bro.
-S14 subframe has better geometry and bolts into s13 with stock bushings or solid adapter bushings (rear mounts are slightly off)
-hicas sway bars are a bit stiffer than non-hicas.
-hicas subframes can be made non-hicas with a lock bar
-hicas makes no difference in the diff
-ABS diffs are longer because they have a sensor on the front of the diff
Anything else you want to know?
does your car have hicas right now? cheapest options is to either; replace hicas subframe / control arm and maybe get lock bar or use non hicas subframe and find toe arms and bushings (at knuckle)
S14 diff needs adapter bushings. Worth it for a track car, not worth it for a street car.
Hicas subframe, u can get a lockout bar like everyone is saying. To prevent hicas from working.
Or go s13 non hicas subframe which we all do, which is a simple bolt on.
Vlsd diff’s are alot better than then the stock open diff’s some cars come with. Best way to check other than open em up and check. Is to see if it has the viscous lsd sticker on the side of the pumpkin.
If you were to pick up a s14 subframe, it would most likely have a vlsd in it, all s14’s came with vlsds. 91-94 s13’s did too. 89-90 had open.
I am not working right now and can help you out for a bit of cash, Ive done it a few times.
Bolts into S13 if you use the front bushings and bolts from the S14 and the rear cover from the S13. You don’t need adapter bushings.
thats what i meant to say, shit. ahah