Nope. If either of those were true the clutch would have having problems disengaging, not engaging.
You have to remember what pressing in the clutch pedal is actually doing. When you push the pedal in the hydraulic ram moves and pushes the throwout bearing up against the clutch spring, releasing the tension on the clutch and allowing flywheel to slip against the clutch disk.
Anything you do to lessen the clutch pedal travel, like get air bubbles in a hyrdaulic line, or put too much play in a cable driven cluch, will only reduce how far you can push in that throwout bearing.
I suppose there is a very slim chance that the clutch slave or master is binding, not allowing the clutch arm to return all the way. That should be easy enough to verify though. Have someone sit in the car pumping the clutch pedal, find the arm that is moving, and make sure that when the clutch is all the way up the arm is fully releasing.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but I’d be willing to bet you need a new clutch.
I think you have the wrong idea of how this works. It’s not like the caliper brakes on a bicycle where as the pads wear you tighten up the cable to allow them to bite better. It’s the exact opposite actually. The natural state of a clutch is like having the brake clamped on as tight as possible to the wheel. When you pull the lever, all you’re doing is releasing the brakes so the bike can roll. As the brakes wear, the spring that is keeping them clamped to the wheel will still keep them clamped, just like how the springs in a clutch keep it clamped to the flywheel. No matter how you would adjust the brake cable in my hypothetical bike brake, it would only all you to lessen your ability to release the brake, not allow it to bite more.